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Old 06-08-2015, 08:59 PM   #15
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Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: FTer Class of 2015 Origin: Evergreen, Colorado
Posts: 1,530
This is what we do, too:

...8" 'drop' receiver extension (turned upside down to provide 8" ride height increase for tow bar to toad height), Dual bike rack extension, with Bike rack on top, BlueOx tow bar on bottom...
I don't think excessive motion is a problem with a rear mount. But dirt and exhaust certainly are. We use an almond colored two-bike cover and the leading side (against the MH) gets REALLY dirty.


Ken & Deb (WIT Club, FMCA, SKP, Harvest Hosts, and grateful volunteers with SOWERs)
2005 Winnebago Vectra 40FD w/400ISL and Allison 3000MH on Freightliner's Evolution chassis, Onan QD7500, 1000w Renogy solar, BlueOx tow gear, and 2015 Cherokee TrailHawk toad.
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Old 06-08-2015, 09:21 PM   #16
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Gulf Streamers Club
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Location: Cincinnati
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Motion and flexing of the bike rack CAN be an issue on the rear of an RV. The distance from the hitch to the rear axle, the stiffer tires and suspension of an RV chassis, all contribute to much more stress on the rack and the bikes. Any slop in the fit of the rack in the receiver just magnifies the issue. Witness how scrambled things get in your rear closet and drawers. The flexing could be reduced with a strap or brace to the back of the RV, but that is an issue because the rear cap is probably not strong enough to serve as a secure anchor point. I've seen bike racks that have cracks in the elbow due to the excessive motion. I've also had to flag down a truck pulling a 5th wheel because his bike rack had failed and he was dragging his bikes down the highway.

Again, a lot of 'wiser' folks claim the warnings not to use a bike carrier on the rear of an RV can be ignored. Just like the people who have also council people, "You don't need brakes on a toad, I've used a tow bar on my car with no auxiliary brakes for XXXX miles and never needed them." I've never used the air bags in my dashboard and steering wheel, but I'm glad I've got them.

I used to drive a camp bus towing a canoe trailer. The serious motion at the rear bumper of the bus pulled a manufactured ball hitch socket right off the two bolt heads holding it on the trailer tongue. The bolts didn't fail, the metal of the hitch socket did. The trailer only had 4 55 lb. canoes on it at the time. I've been sensitive to long overhangs and the physics of the issue ever since.


Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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Old 06-09-2015, 03:50 PM   #17
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I have a 49 dollar over the spare rack that does fibe for two bikes. No movement t all
Ed and Marina Marasi, Suffield Ct, 32' Tiffen allegro 1999
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Old 06-09-2015, 05:50 PM   #18
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Workhorse Chassis Owner
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I drive a gasser but I do carry my Bike on the back.. Here is the setup

I have a blue-ox Drop hitch adapter I need to get it down to the level of the baseplate on my towed.. Blue ox custom modified it for me by welding on a ball hitch mount on the top.. My Draw-Thite Bicycle carrier is bolted to that with a Grade 8 bolt.

The drop hitch adapter is connected to the RV's receiver with the standard coupler pin PLUS.... A Blue-Ox anti-rattle clip or Hitch Immobilizer (They re-designed and changed the name) There is ZERO wiggle in that coupling.. And very little movement of the bicycle on the mount,, It is like it was bolted to the RV (Which it is actually) Several thousand miles and the only times I have had a problem are..

1: Backed it into a tree

2: RV broke and dropped it on the ground (Well the back tire) at 55MPH
Home is where I park it!
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:57 AM   #19
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Posts: 231
Kuat NV four bike rack on the back of my 40 class A. 70,000 miles in three years with out issue. Hitch splitter with rack up top and tow bar bar the jeep below. I think all four bikes combined weigh in just over 46 pounds. ;-)

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