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Old 07-26-2012, 11:42 AM   #15
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[QUOTE=Ohsirr;1252379]
I've noticed on our last trip (a couple of days ago) that my black water did not completely drain when I was at the dump. I let it drain for at least 15 minutes before closing the tank and opening the grey water. I went the the RV shop for some cleaner and it seems to have broken everything down when I checked the gauges which read empty. After looking down the drain I noticed that it was still at a high level (this was after we returned home). My plan is to go to the storage spot to dump again and with any luck it will clear out.

Has anyone experienced this same problem? Please I need all the help or suggestions I can get. :bang head:

I've also posted this in the Winnebago Forum[

/QUOTE]

Your original post above states that after attempting to empty the black tank, the gauges read "empty" however, when looking into the tank, it still looks somewhat full. This is contradictory from your most recent post below.

[QUOTE=Ohsirr;1255786]

OK this is what I tried. I filled the tank to about 1/3 to 2/3 full and added chemicals and let it sit for 4 days. Then it was off to the dump station so I poured 2 medium sized ice bags into the tank. Drove to the dump station about 15 miles away and hooked up the dump and used my cleaning jets (internal) and dumped the fluids while using the jets. I ran the jets about 5 to 10 minutes. I'm almost positive that the tank is now empty (verified by looking down the toilet tube). Now that the tank is empty the gauge on the wall says it is 2/3 full. What the heck am i doing wrong.

Or should I just let it go and know that it's empty?

Yes we have a clear tube at the end of the dump and it appears to be some what clear at the end of this last attempt. [

/QUOTE]

Now, you state that after going through the procedure above, you have verified that the tank is NOW empty however, the gauges do NOT read empty but 2/3 full.

I don't know about what others trying to help you think but you have stated two completely different problems which require different solutions.

The first post would most likely be a blockage problem somewhere in the black tank system. Your most recent post would most likely be a sensor problem.

First off, get yourself some clear 3 inch sewer fittings that will fit onto your tank outlet so you can actually see what you are dumping. Once you start using that you will know whether the tanks are empty or not. See first set of photos showing clear sewer fitting.

Second, as stated previously, OEM sensors are notorious for failures. Purchase a SeeLevel System for your tanks, installation is very easy, and you will have 100% reliable tank level indicators. The second set of photos are showing the GREEN tank sensors and the RED SeeLevel Tank Display mounted on the wall.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 07-26-2012, 01:02 PM   #16
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I put in a seelevel sensor system last spring. It works good. Dead nuts accurate, doesn't get fooled by "klingons", and much more resolution the those 4 silly lites.

I'm not sure of the practicality of a retrofit (because of cost and wiring issues) but most or many monaco coaches come with both a techma macerating toilet and a sanicon macerating output pump.

I am a firm believer in this system. No mess no smell ever. No solids ever go into the black tank. None come out. Take the cap off and put the socket in the dump, hit the switch.... Drink a beer, turn the switch off, done.

I am less of a believer in the sanicon alone, but i would never ever be without a tech?a toilet.
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Old 07-26-2012, 01:32 PM   #17
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[QUOTE=Dr4Film;1256249][QUOTE=Ohsirr;1252379]
I've noticed on our last trip (a couple of days ago) that my black water did not completely drain when I was at the dump. I let it drain for at least 15 minutes before closing the tank and opening the grey water. I went the the RV shop for some cleaner and it seems to have broken everything down when I checked the gauges which read empty. After looking down the drain I noticed that it was still at a high level (this was after we returned home). My plan is to go to the storage spot to dump again and with any luck it will clear out.

Has anyone experienced this same problem? Please I need all the help or suggestions I can get. :bang head:

I've also posted this in the Winnebago Forum[

/QUOTE]

Your original post above states that after attempting to empty the black tank, the gauges read "empty" however, when looking into the tank, it still looks somewhat full. This is contradictory from your most recent post below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohsirr View Post

OK this is what I tried. I filled the tank to about 1/3 to 2/3 full and added chemicals and let it sit for 4 days. Then it was off to the dump station so I poured 2 medium sized ice bags into the tank. Drove to the dump station about 15 miles away and hooked up the dump and used my cleaning jets (internal) and dumped the fluids while using the jets. I ran the jets about 5 to 10 minutes. I'm almost positive that the tank is now empty (verified by looking down the toilet tube). Now that the tank is empty the gauge on the wall says it is 2/3 full. What the heck am i doing wrong.

Or should I just let it go and know that it's empty?

Yes we have a clear tube at the end of the dump and it appears to be some what clear at the end of this last attempt. [

/QUOTE]

Now, you state that after going through the procedure above, you have verified that the tank is NOW empty however, the gauges do NOT read empty but 2/3 full.

I don't know about what others trying to help you think but you have stated two completely different problems which require different solutions.

The first post would most likely be a blockage problem somewhere in the black tank system. Your most recent post would most likely be a sensor problem.

First off, get yourself some clear 3 inch sewer fittings that will fit onto your tank outlet so you can actually see what you are dumping. Once you start using that you will know whether the tanks are empty or not. See first set of photos showing clear sewer fitting.

Second, as stated previously, OEM sensors are notorious for failures. Purchase a SeeLevel System for your tanks, installation is very easy, and you will have 100% reliable tank level indicators. The second set of photos are showing the GREEN tank sensors and the RED SeeLevel Tank Display mounted on the wall.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Richard, what is that hooked up to what looks like the outdoor shower hose/fixture? btw, the cleanest bay I've ever seen!
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:13 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Lincolnboy2 View Post
Richard, what is that hooked up to what looks like the outdoor shower hose/fixture? btw, the cleanest bay I've ever seen!
Sorry, that specific photo probably wasn't the best for showing my service bay. The outside shower you refer to has been modified. First because one night the fitting right at the H&C controls had froze, and second, I wanted the ability to easily remove the shower head and use a hose extension or to use the hose to supply water to my black tank flush when dumping at a dump station that does not have any water for flushing.

Possibly you were referring to the two line brass fixture on the left side of the photo. That is something that I put together years ago to eliminate having to hookup two hoses, one for city water and another for the black tank flush. I now hookup only one water input to the bottom of that brass fixture that sticks through the bottom of the service bay. I then use the red handle control valves to direct the water where I need it, either to the city water 3-way valve or to the black tank flush line. The attached photo was taken when I was dumping the black tank and back flushing. The valve for the city water side is closed and the valve for the black tank flush is open.

Hopes this answers your question. I have attached a better photo of my service bay.

Thanks for the compliments on the cleanliness. I like having it that way but I do go through a bunch of paper towels to keep it that way.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:38 AM   #19
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It would take bacteria and enzymes a lot longer than 15 minutes to break down feces and toilet paper. Black tanks are holding tanks, not septic tanks. There is no need for any of these products if the tank is flushed correctly. We use nothing and have no smells or clogs. Now if you have huge tanks and only empty them every few weeks, then maybe something would be needed to help break down the mass in the tank... but those camping for a week or less will do well with a good top-flush until they see the water leaving the tank is clear.
I strongly disagree with not using waste digester. It is, of course, a personal preference, but I use it, and I recommend everyone use it. Most RV owners manuals recommend it be used. I want to make sure everything has liquified, and that there is NO odor... inside or out. How does a septic tank function ? A chemical reaction liquifes waste and eliminates the odor. A properly working septic system has NO odor. So, how does one start that chemical reaction ? By adding an enzyme. The system is large enough that the enzyme perpetuates. So, how does one accomplish the same thing in an RV ? By adding an enzyme ! It is smaller than a home septic system, of course, so the enzyme won't continue growing... thus the need to add it every time you dump. So yes, a black tank does in fact function as a septic tank, just on a smaller scale. ALWAYS use a digester, not a deodorant... and make sure it's environmentally friendly, not containing formaldehyde. Just my .02 here though... take from it what you will.
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:29 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
Sorry, that specific photo probably wasn't the best for showing my service bay. The outside shower you refer to has been modified. First because one night the fitting right at the H&C controls had froze, and second, I wanted the ability to easily remove the shower head and use a hose extension or to use the hose to supply water to my black tank flush when dumping at a dump station that does not have any water for flushing.

Possibly you were referring to the two line brass fixture on the left side of the photo. That is something that I put together years ago to eliminate having to hookup two hoses, one for city water and another for the black tank flush. I now hookup only one water input to the bottom of that brass fixture that sticks through the bottom of the service bay. I then use the red handle control valves to direct the water where I need it, either to the city water 3-way valve or to the black tank flush line. The attached photo was taken when I was dumping the black tank and back flushing. The valve for the city water side is closed and the valve for the black tank flush is open.

Hopes this answers your question. I have attached a better photo of my service bay.

Thanks for the compliments on the cleanliness. I like having it that way but I do go through a bunch of paper towels to keep it that way.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Exceptional! Excellent ideas and implementation. I really like the paper towel holder there too, now, just one more dumb question...is that a rolling pin on top of the paper towel holder? I know I should know what it is, but am stumped?
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Old 07-28-2012, 01:07 AM   #21
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OK my next purchase to try to solve this problem is some type of enzyme. Any one have a favorite enzyme?
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Old 07-28-2012, 08:14 AM   #22
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OK my next purchase to try to solve this problem is some type of enzyme. Any one have a favorite enzyme?
I had stated earlier in this thread, a small amount of LIQUID Rid-X after each time you dump will solve your problem. Once the enzyme has been established, the dumping process leaves a small amount of enzymes within the black tank. Therefore you only need a cap full or two for a 40 gallon tank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lincolnboy2 View Post
Exceptional! Excellent ideas and implementation. I really like the paper towel holder there too, now, just one more dumb question...is that a rolling pin on top of the paper towel holder? I know I should know what it is, but am stumped?
Yup, that's an old fashion rolling pin. At one time, I was living in an area that had enormous amounts of wind. Therefore whenever I opened the service bay, the paper towels would blow all over. By placing the rolling pin onto the top of the paper towel holder, the towels now stay in place plus you can dispense any that are needed easily.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 07-28-2012, 10:02 AM   #23
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A little Rid-x and a drive will clean up the mess pretty good. Worked for me.
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Old 07-28-2012, 05:10 PM   #24
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I prefer BioActive, or Odorlos......
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Old 07-30-2012, 10:35 AM   #25
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OK my next purchase to try to solve this problem is some type of enzyme. Any one have a favorite enzyme?
Happy Camper - Odorless Holding Tank Treatment Black and Grey Water
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Old 07-30-2012, 10:36 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
I had stated earlier in this thread, a small amount of LIQUID Rid-X after each time you dump will solve your problem. Once the enzyme has been established, the dumping process leaves a small amount of enzymes within the black tank. Therefore you only need a cap full or two for a 40 gallon tank.



Yup, that's an old fashion rolling pin. At one time, I was living in an area that had enormous amounts of wind. Therefore whenever I opened the service bay, the paper towels would blow all over. By placing the rolling pin onto the top of the paper towel holder, the towels now stay in place plus you can dispense any that are needed easily.



Dr4Film ----- Richard
Great idea....!
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:16 PM   #27
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I've had the best results from BioActive or Odorlos... I prefer them because they have a very faint scent, and are both are non-staining ( in case you spill on the carpet or linoleum. Hope this will help...
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:53 AM   #28
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Use a small amount of liquid Rid-X in your tank after every dump. You will not have any odors and the enzymes will eat up and dissolve any residual left in your tank.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Please don't encourage the use of enzymes, totally not required and BAD for the envirment.
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