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Old 10-10-2016, 08:55 AM   #1
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Body Roll Help

After a summer of renovations, I now have my 85 Vogue back on the road. I uploaded some before and after pics.

First camping trip last weekend. All was good, but I feel I now need to seriously address the body roll I experience.

I have solid bushings and steering, shocks just a couple years old, air bags all around. But I feel like a ship traveling down the road, and feel a definite tilt out on turns.

I believe from research that steering stabilizers and sway bars could make a dramatic improvement.

Problem is my camper is older and pretty rare. It is a diesel pusher on a Crown Chassis. I believe I can find a steering stabilizer, but the sway bar is a little more difficult. I thought that I might be able to get something used from a old bus.

Is it possible to improve the ride by tuning the airbags?

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Old 10-10-2016, 10:42 AM   #2
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Check the plumbing on the airbags. If they are plumbed as one valve for the rear and one valve for the front, then you will experience body roll since any pressure on one bag will transfer pressure to the opposite bag.

They should each be on a separate circuit isolated by an independent valve.

Otherwise sway bars would be your best choice if they are already independent. You could retrofit most any properly sized sway bar.

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Old 10-10-2016, 10:51 AM   #3
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I have two valves in the front. One in the back. Was thinking of putting two in the back and create an "active air system" (without the computer).

Think that would help?
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Old 10-10-2016, 11:15 AM   #4
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I would do some research on motion control units. There are a lot of posts here on iRV2. They basically slow down the air going in and out of the bags. They made a big difference on my coach.

An aftermarket sway bar would make a big difference if you don't already have one.

I would call these people, Supersteer Products | Henderson's Line-Up Brake & RV Inc.

They did an alinement on my coach and seam to know a lot about suspension and handling problems.

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Old 10-10-2016, 11:47 AM   #5
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This may help. Source Engineering Inc | Custom RV Chassis | Eugene, OR
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:36 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by JSutton1 View Post
I have two valves in the front. One in the back. Was thinking of putting two in the back and create an "active air system" (without the computer).

Think that would help?
Each bag definitely needs to be isolated - that should help some.
Another thing to look at would be the distance the bags are from the wheels and each other, if they are are not closer to the wheel than they are to each other, then the chassis will just naturally have more roll. a sway bar is your best bet if this in the case.
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:50 PM   #7
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J Sutton not sure about the sway bars but that is a cool looking RV! Nice job! Regards
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:16 PM   #8
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Thanks for the compliment!

I was going to try Super Steer Motion Control Units on the rear (I think that's the week area right now). But the dam things are the size of two cigars, cost $205, then they want to rape me for $30 shipping, Ground. Mad is the USA, but way over price for a baffle.

Instead I was thinking of adding a second level valve in the rear and separating the right and left bags.

1. Is there any negative effects of having four leveling valves? Such as the front and rear fighting each other?

2. Is there any chance that I could experience a type of active control buy just using leveling valves? The computer systems are going to be too much.

Thanks Jim
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:46 PM   #9
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I'll also say what a sweet looking rolling classic - salute!

On our 04 CC, I had Motion Control Units front and rear. And they helped. But, on a lark and trying to help the local Junction City economy, I went ahead and changed them out to the Source Engineering Check Valve. (I was having their KISS Wax Control Valve for the cooling fan installed, so was in the shop.) The SS MCU's restrict air in both direction. The SE Check Valve only restricts the air in one direction. So while the SS MCU's were an improvement on faster 'resetting' of the suspension when shifting load weights/curves from one side to the other. The SE valves allowed faster 'setting' as the air was not restricted when it needed to move as fast as possible to a bag under load. (Probably did not say that well. But call and talk with the SE gang, and they'll do a better jog of describing the differences between these two kinds of check valves.)

On you other handling options. Sure, talk with Henderson's Lineup - very possible they may have some suggestions for you. You might also call and talk to Roadmaster as I believe they bought IPD. They could have a sway bar for too.

And another suggestion. Does the coach already have sway bars? And if so, could you upgrade the rubber bushings to poly bushings? That made a difference on our much smaller F53 18K chassis, the change over to poly bushings.

And yeah, for a price, sway bars could be made custom if needed. If it is the 'She's about to tip over feeling!' (My wife hated that so much, that she authorized throwing money and suspension upgrades!), I too believe Sway Bars enhancements and or additions would yield the biggest results.

Best of luck to you, and enjoy that nice rig,
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Old 10-12-2016, 04:22 PM   #10
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Though it doesn't look like an issue in the pictures, a coach set up using low air bag pressure will definitely wallow more than one on a stiff set of airbags.

Ours has the older 2 in the front, 1 in the back arrangement as well. Though it did take a few thousand miles to get used to it ours, it really isn't that bad in normal conditions (like passing or being passed by a truck). Where things get interesting is on treks across 80 or 90 with a lot of side wind. Most recent trip with winds 25-35 gusting to 50 - for nearly our entire 3 day ride still fresh in the memory banks.

I've often wondered if the side wind resistance could be increased by re-plumbing that system to a 2 in the back/1 in the front or 4 load sensor setup. Logic for 2 in the back includes the fact the rear axle is supporting 65% of the coach's weight, and presents the lions share of side area to the wind.

Thought about the weight/pressure distribution for the 4 corner thing as well. My thought is using 4 corner weights to help arrive at optimum ride height adjustments - obviously drive shaft angle to come into play as well. Set it so it looks about right, and get some corner weights to see how you did. Adjust sensors and reweigh as necessary.

The plan would be to avoid diagonally high/low weights (major twist), while maintaining drive line level.

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