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Old 08-18-2011, 09:24 PM   #1
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Boost from house to Chassis

I have a boost botton that I can not seem to get working and could use some advise. I have a DP Holiday Rambler 40' Coach and if the chassis batteries are too low it will not turn fast enough to start so I apply the boost botton but nothing changes when I try to restart. Is there a fuse or am I just not doing it right?
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:31 PM   #2
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Are you trying to start your motor or your generator?? Either way you will need to hold the boost button down for a period of time to get it to furnish enough power to work. If you are trying to start your generator, start your motor first.
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:32 PM   #3
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You must hold down the switch while you try to start your coach.

That switch activates a solenoid which in turn connects the batteries. Have someone stand near the rear of the coach where the batteries are and see if they can hear the clicking of th solenoid when you press the switch. If they do then most likely your solenoid is bad. If they don't then the wiring between the switch and the solenoid or the switch may be bad.
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:41 AM   #4
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In addition, The "Boost" system has basically only a few parts and I will discuss each part and it's implications

House batteries (Are they charged, or run down)
A fuse (Blown or not)
The switch (GOOD/BAD (not closing)
The Solenoid (likewise)
The small wires on the switch/fuse/solenoid side of things (Broken, disconnected, good)
The big boys (Wires) on the battery sides of the solenoid (Same)

The connections, particularry the ones on the heavy duty wires. (Rusted/tarnished/clean and tight)

That about covers it.

First find the big wires and make sure you have battery voltage on both sides of the solenoid, (you should see chassis on one side house on the other)

Then hook a test lamp across the solenoid (IF it has two small wires then use both, (hot and ground, with a test lamp it matters not which is which) if it has one wire then the frame (The part that is bolted down) is the other wire) and make sure pressing teh switch lights the light.

If you hear a good solid CLUNK from the solenoid then the small wires are good, Light but no clunk.. The solenoid is bad.

CLUNK but no boost, (Again use the volt meter on the two big lugs) if the voltages remain different, solenoid is bad.,
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:55 AM   #5
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Also --- when things are hard to start that is often a sign that battery terminal connections and grounds should be cleaned and tightened.
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Old 08-19-2011, 09:43 PM   #6
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Why are your chassis batteries too low? The only time my chassis batteries have been low is when someone who shall remain nameless (but it rhymes with ronspradley) left the lights on all night. Did you know that if you close the front curtains you cannot see that your lights are on all night? And as posted earlier, make sure all battery cables are clean and tight. Check voltage at both chassis and house batteries. Your house batteries that you are trying to use to boost chassis batteries need to be fully charged also. That is why I suggested to check voltages . Hope this helps...............ronspradley
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Old 08-22-2011, 08:41 AM   #7
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One consideration that has been really beaten up in discussion elsewhere. That is not a momentary switch you are using. When you press the "boost" or whatever the switch is called it connects the two battery banks. Like any form of charging, it takes time to charge the weaker battery, sometimes as long as 45-60 minutes. Wedge something under or on top of the switch to keep it connected and go have lunch. When you come back there is a high degree of probability that it will have worked. I agree with the other poster who suggested starting your engine if you are able - the alternator will charge the battery(s) too.
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:32 AM   #8
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Your coach is a 2007 SKT?

On my 08 Endeavor the push button house shut off switch by the door must be on for the solenoid to activate. I actually put a label next to my AUX start button to remind me to turn that switch on.

If that is good wedges something under the aux switch or have someone hold it. Then use a voltmeter and measure the voltage on each side of the large solenoid inside the battery compartment. If the voltage is the same have have someone release the button and listen for the clunk of the solenoid opening. If you do not hear the clunk then measure the voltage on the violet wire while the switch is being held. It should be 10 + volts. If not then other issues. The large relay is a know issue and I have repaired and replaced mine twice. It was bad when I got it and dropped 1/2 volt across the large terminals when closed.

If you can start your generator let the charging system do its job for at least ten minutes.

Also, battery terminals must be clean and shiny bright and tight. Twelve volts just won't push through any corrosion.
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:39 AM   #9
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Starvin, the easiest way to deal with your situation is not to get into in the first place. I should have gotten one a lot sooner but I just installed a Trik-L-Start. It bridges between your house batteries and the chassis batteries so that when you are plugged into shore power, the chassis batteries will automatically charge.

Trik-L-Start is a simple 3 wires and mounting installation. You screw the box into a surface near the connections and simply connect ground, the chassis batteries and the house batteries to it. I had to lengthen one wire by splicing it but everything else took only a couple of minutes.

I have no association with the company that makes Trik-L-Start, I'm just a satisfied customer.
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:13 PM   #10
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Generally monaco products in that age range will have a system to always keep both battery banks charged.

The only time I've had trouble in in storage if I forget to use the main battery disconnects in the battery compartment.

I always hit the disconnects, anytime the rig will not be used for even a few days. I can't plugin at my staroge lot. :(
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Old 08-22-2011, 04:05 PM   #11
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X2. Previous owner had to use the house batteries to start every few weeks. I installed the Trick-l-Start right after I bought the coach and have never had to use the house batteries even tho it sets for months sometimes.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasfm11 View Post
Starvin, the easiest way to deal with your situation is not to get into in the first place. I should have gotten one a lot sooner but I just installed a Trik-L-Start. It bridges between your house batteries and the chassis batteries so that when you are plugged into shore power, the chassis batteries will automatically charge.

Trik-L-Start is a simple 3 wires and mounting installation. You screw the box into a surface near the connections and simply connect ground, the chassis batteries and the house batteries to it. I had to lengthen one wire by splicing it but everything else took only a couple of minutes.

I have no association with the company that makes Trik-L-Start, I'm just a satisfied customer.
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Old 08-22-2011, 10:32 PM   #12
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plug up your shore power. flick the aux batt switch on. leave it on. it will bypass your inverter, converter and isolator. the charge will be direct from house to coach. the next time you start it will spin like linda blair's head in 'The Exorcist.' try it...you'll like it.
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