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Old 08-14-2016, 04:18 PM   #1
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Brake dragging

I have a 86 Bounder and it doesn't get much use and I just took it out and I obviously have a stuck brake caliper. What do you recommend to unstick it?
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Old 08-14-2016, 04:44 PM   #2
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Some Workhorse chassis have a recall for sticking calipers. You might search the forum and see if your rig qualifies. If you do have a Workhorse chassis, if you post your VIN number folks will look it up for you and let you know if it qualifies and if it's been done.

Often driving a bit with some heavy brake applications will cause rusted components to free up a bit. Only other thing would be to rebuild both brake calipers. Also, little used disk brakes will rust the rotor and cause lots of heat and noise until the rust is burnished off the rotor surfaces. Are you sure the caliper is frozen, not just rusted rotors?
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Old 08-14-2016, 06:48 PM   #3
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Fortunately front brake parts are relatively inexpensive for your rig. I'd be doing calipers, hoses and pads, if you do it yourself under $200
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Old 08-14-2016, 08:35 PM   #4
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We had an 86 Hawkins on a workhorse chassis. Drivers side front caliper was doing the same thing (after sitting a long time). It was the brake hoses, they break down on the inside and start working like a check valve not letting the fluid release. Cheap fix two hours labor for both fronts including the bleed.
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Old 08-14-2016, 10:58 PM   #5
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Thank you guys for the responses. I used the leveling jacks to bring the front tires off of the ground and the drivers side front tire was dragging but the passenger side was ok I have 4 wheel disk but I don't dare jacking just the back. so I'm going to try changing the front hoses first. I will let you know if that was it. Thanks again
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Old 08-14-2016, 11:29 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by chuck7 View Post
Thank you guys for the responses. I used the leveling jacks to bring the front tires off of the ground and the drivers side front tire was dragging but the passenger side was ok I have 4 wheel disk but I don't dare jacking just the back. so I'm going to try changing the front hoses first. I will let you know if that was it. Thanks again
The rear only has one hose near the center, from that union the brake lines are hard tubed to each wheel from there. When my front one went bad I could tell which caliper it was from one wheel smoking after just driving a mile.
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Old 08-15-2016, 11:50 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
Some Workhorse chassis have a recall for sticking calipers. You might search the forum and see if your rig qualifies. If you do have a Workhorse chassis, if you post your VIN number folks will look it up for you and let you know if it qualifies and if it's been done.

Often driving a bit with some heavy brake applications will cause rusted components to free up a bit. Only other thing would be to rebuild both brake calipers. Also, little used disk brakes will rust the rotor and cause lots of heat and noise until the rust is burnished off the rotor surfaces. Are you sure the caliper is frozen, not just rusted rotors?
Workhorse???? Were they even around in 1986? The OP has a Chevrolet P-30 series chassis.

"Workhorse was started in 1998 by investors who took over production and sales of General Motors’ popular P-series Stepvan chassis when GM dropped it."

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/
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Old 08-16-2016, 09:38 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by chboone View Post
Workhorse???? Were they even around in 1986? The OP has a Chevrolet P-30 series chassis.

"Workhorse was started in 1998 by investors who took over production and sales of General Motors’ popular P-series Stepvan chassis when GM dropped it."

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/

You make a good point chboone, I always thought that I had the P-30 Chassis. I got pretty aggressive with the brakes yesterday and was able to free up the brake so I got lucky. I guess its time to have the brakes gone thru.
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Old 08-16-2016, 11:11 AM   #9
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#1 check to see if your chassis was part of GM recall for brakes

#2 In almost every case where a brake is sticking, you can just about bet its because of the brake hose is deteriorating internally. Replace the brake hoses. Replace all 4 (5) hoses. When one goes bad, the others arn't far behind.

#3 oil/grease from leaking axle seals causing brake caliper pins / slides to jam / bind.

#4 dirty, corroded, worn caliper pins / slides.
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Old 08-16-2016, 12:20 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by chboone View Post
Workhorse???? Were they even around in 1986? The OP has a Chevrolet P-30 series chassis.

"Workhorse was started in 1998 by investors who took over production and sales of General Motors’ popular P-series Stepvan chassis when GM dropped it."

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/
OOPs, my bad. I know Workhorse came later, using mostly GM parts. Wonder what happened to their 'new RV chassis' announcement a while back? Anyone see one yet?

Fact is, the OP didn't specify type of chassis. I saw sticking brakes and remembered Workhorse issues with Bosch brakes. I didn't go back and check year. Bounders were built on Ford, Chevy, John Deere, and Workhorse gas chassis, and a number of diesel pusher chassis too.

Fact is, the OP has responded a few times since I posted about Workhorse, he never clarified what chassis we're trying to help him with except to say, "I always thought that I had the P-30 Chassis." Still not declarative, in my mind.
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Old 08-16-2016, 07:56 PM   #11
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Sorry, I know now that I should have specified chassis. I got a lot of helpful info and I will be changing all of my brake lines to start with and will inspect everything else. Thank you
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