Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-28-2013, 06:37 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
joeplazek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: CAISTOR CENTRE
Posts: 535
Check any where your rubber brakes hoses go through steel holders as these rust inside and squeeze the line off causing a restriction. Had this happen to mine and the brakes would stay on just enough to overheat and impossible to bleed. All I had to do was open up the holders just enough that the hose slide back and forth freely. Problem was solved.

joe
__________________

__________________
joeplazek is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 07-28-2013, 06:47 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
whitetop's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia Beach,Virginia
Posts: 217
Not sure this apply's or not.But by chance is the rod thru the fire wall that operates the master cylinder the same length? What I am saying is they can be adjusted for travel length.Good luck.
__________________

__________________
whitetop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2013, 07:24 AM   #17
Member
 
Bcollier9253's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitetop View Post
Not sure this apply's or not.But by chance is the rod thru the fire wall that operates the master cylinder the same length? What I am saying is they can be adjusted for travel length.Good luck.
I used the pushrod out of the old hydraboost in the new one
__________________
Brad &Tish Collier
Indianapolis, Indiana
1991 Fleetwood Southwind 454 P32
Bcollier9253 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2013, 08:11 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
whitetop's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia Beach,Virginia
Posts: 217
You may want to make sure the length is correct,sure hope you figure it out I know how frustrating things like this can be. Happy Trails...
__________________
whitetop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2013, 08:10 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Dave78Chief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,513
This may help you isolate where the issue is:

Obtain some Edelmann Inverted Flare Plugs in the size that fits your front and rear master cylinder brake line tubes (http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...-plug-fittings).

Remove both brake lines and install the Inverted Flare Plugs in the mastercylinder.

Start the engine and see if you have firm brakes. If not, then the problem is in the master cylinder or hydroboost unit. See page 4 of http://www.bepco.biz/Catalogs/VacHyd...LESHOOTING.pdf
If ok, remove plugs and reconnect the brake lines.

At the combination valve disconnect the line that goes to the rear brakes and install a Inverted Flare Plug in the combination valve. Bleed the front brakes and see if you still have the brake problem. If not, problem is in rear brakes. If still there it is the front brakes.

You should be able to isolate the problem from there.

Fix problem, bleed both front and rear again, reset brake light switch (part of bleeding process) and test drive.

Dave
__________________
Dave in Virginia
1978 Winnebago Chieftain
Dodge M400 - 440-3
Classic Winnebago Site: http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php
Dave78Chief is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2013, 04:46 AM   #20
Member
 
Bcollier9253's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave78Chief View Post
This may help you isolate where the issue is:

Obtain some Edelmann Inverted Flare Plugs in the size that fits your front and rear master cylinder brake line tubes (http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...-plug-fittings).

Remove both brake lines and install the Inverted Flare Plugs in the mastercylinder.

Start the engine and see if you have firm brakes. If not, then the problem is in the master cylinder or hydroboost unit. See page 4 of http://www.bepco.biz/Catalogs/VacHyd...LESHOOTING.pdf
If ok, remove plugs and reconnect the brake lines.

At the combination valve disconnect the line that goes to the rear brakes and install a Inverted Flare Plug in the combination valve. Bleed the front brakes and see if you still have the brake problem. If not, problem is in rear brakes. If still there it is the front brakes.

You should be able to isolate the problem from there.

Fix problem, bleed both front and rear again, reset brake light switch (part of bleeding process) and test drive.

Dave
This sounds like a plan that I will try. Thanks!
__________________
Brad &Tish Collier
Indianapolis, Indiana
1991 Fleetwood Southwind 454 P32
Bcollier9253 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2013, 05:53 AM   #21
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: texas
Posts: 2,268
Dave is the man
__________________
whem2fish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2013, 09:45 AM   #22
Member
 
Bcollier9253's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave78Chief View Post
This may help you isolate where the issue is:

Obtain some Edelmann Inverted Flare Plugs in the size that fits your front and rear master cylinder brake line tubes (http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...-plug-fittings).

Remove both brake lines and install the Inverted Flare Plugs in the mastercylinder.

Start the engine and see if you have firm brakes. If not, then the problem is in the master cylinder or hydroboost unit. See page 4 of http://www.bepco.biz/Catalogs/VacHyd...LESHOOTING.pdf
If ok, remove plugs and reconnect the brake lines.

At the combination valve disconnect the line that goes to the rear brakes and install a Inverted Flare Plug in the combination valve. Bleed the front brakes and see if you still have the brake problem. If not, problem is in rear brakes. If still there it is the front brakes.

You should be able to isolate the problem from there.

Fix problem, bleed both front and rear again, reset brake light switch (part of bleeding process) and test drive.

Dave
How does one go about resetting the light switch?
__________________
Brad &Tish Collier
Indianapolis, Indiana
1991 Fleetwood Southwind 454 P32
Bcollier9253 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2013, 01:11 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
Dave78Chief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,513
The combination valve detects a loss of pressure in either the front or rear brake system. There is a slide valve inside of it that when pressure in one circuit is lost (i.e rear) the pressure in the other circuit (i.e front) pushes the valve off center resulting in the Brake Warning lamp being lit. So once the failed circuit has been repaired, the object is to use the pressure of the now functional circuit to push the slide valve back to it's center "home" position. You do this by simulating a lose of pressure in the system that did not fail.

Note: I am writing this with the assumption that you did a complete brake job and you do not know which system (front or rear) is causing the brake warning light to come on.

Bleed all air out of both front/rear systems (note: this in itself may reset the warning light)

Have helper pump up the brakes and hold. At the right rear wheel cylinder (or caliper) slowly crack the bleeder screw open until the brake warning light goes out. If, that does not turn the light off, repeat that procedure at the right front wheel. Object is to use the pressure in one circuit to push the slide valve back to it's center "home" position. Once set, the balanced pressure between the front and rear systems will keep the slide valve centered.

One additional note: The combination valve, sometimes referred to as a proportion valve, reduces the pressure to the rear brakes. When you apply the brakes, the weight of the vehicle is pushed forward via inertia. This will result in the rear wheels locking up before the fronts do. So, the proportion valve feature reduces the pressure to the rear brakes so they do not lock up before the front brakes.

While this does not apply to 4 wheel disk system, for vehicles that have front disk and rear drum brakes, the proportion valve also maintains a small amount of constant pressure on the rear circuit in order to keep the wheel cylinder piston/rubber cup pushed against the return springs to prevent leakage past the rubber wheel cylinder cup.

Dave
__________________
Dave in Virginia
1978 Winnebago Chieftain
Dodge M400 - 440-3
Classic Winnebago Site: http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php
Dave78Chief is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2013, 01:20 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
terry735001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,158
Blog Entries: 11
i am not sure but i know on cars and SUVs arond that year if it has anti lock brakes system you have to send a open code to the ABS to bled all of systems Or it has the push butten on the ABS its self

i am not sure if your 91 Southwind P-30 chassis has ASB or just a load valve on the back axel
__________________
terry735001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2013, 02:55 PM   #25
Member
 
Bcollier9253's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave78Chief View Post
The combination valve detects a loss of pressure in either the front or rear brake system. There is a slide valve inside of it that when pressure in one circuit is lost (i.e rear) the pressure in the other circuit (i.e front) pushes the valve off center resulting in the Brake Warning lamp being lit. So once the failed circuit has been repaired, the object is to use the pressure of the now functional circuit to push the slide valve back to it's center "home" position. You do this by simulating a lose of pressure in the system that did not fail.

Note: I am writing this with the assumption that you did a complete brake job and you do not know which system (front or rear) is causing the brake warning light to come on.

Bleed all air out of both front/rear systems (note: this in itself may reset the warning light)

Have helper pump up the brakes and hold. At the right rear wheel cylinder (or caliper) slowly crack the bleeder screw open until the brake warning light goes out. If, that does not turn the light off, repeat that procedure at the right front wheel. Object is to use the pressure in one circuit to push the slide valve back to it's center "home" position. Once set, the balanced pressure between the front and rear systems will keep the slide valve centered.

One additional note: The combination valve, sometimes referred to as a proportion valve, reduces the pressure to the rear brakes. When you apply the brakes, the weight of the vehicle is pushed forward via inertia. This will result in the rear wheels locking up before the fronts do. So, the proportion valve feature reduces the pressure to the rear brakes so they do not lock up before the front brakes.

While this does not apply to 4 wheel disk system, for vehicles that have front disk and rear drum brakes, the proportion valve also maintains a small amount of constant pressure on the rear circuit in order to keep the wheel cylinder piston/rubber cup pushed against the return springs to prevent leakage past the rubber wheel cylinder cup.

Dave
Thank ya kind sir. Your a wealth of information!!
__________________
Brad &Tish Collier
Indianapolis, Indiana
1991 Fleetwood Southwind 454 P32
Bcollier9253 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 06:01 AM   #26
Member
 
Bcollier9253's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 67
Okay... I think the new master is bad so I put the ill one back on. While the combination- proportioning valve was off and the master plugged I had hard peddle, hooked everything back up and guess what.... soft peddle again. Tried to gravity bleed, probably ran about a quart of fluid, mostly thru the back brakes, they had a decent trickle coming out. The front on the other hand dont even have as much as a drop coming out., left them open for at least an hour. I can vacume the front and get fluid so why won't they gravity bleed?
__________________
Brad &Tish Collier
Indianapolis, Indiana
1991 Fleetwood Southwind 454 P32
Bcollier9253 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 06:59 AM   #27
Senior Member
 
Dave78Chief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,513
I have never tried a gravity bleed. I have tried a vacuum bleed however the extra air bubbles (sucking air from bleeder screw threads) never made me feel comfortable that it worked. I always use a one man bleeder set up that forces all air out under pressure.

Autocraft 7 pc One-Man Brake Bleeder-AC558/W80625 - Advance Auto Parts





Dave
__________________
Dave in Virginia
1978 Winnebago Chieftain
Dodge M400 - 440-3
Classic Winnebago Site: http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php
Dave78Chief is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 07:47 AM   #28
Member
 
Bcollier9253's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 67
Just went out and checked the fluid level in the mc after the front bleeders being open all night, it was still full. ????
__________________

__________________
Brad &Tish Collier
Indianapolis, Indiana
1991 Fleetwood Southwind 454 P32
Bcollier9253 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:37 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.