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Old 06-11-2011, 01:44 PM   #1
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Brakes sticking

I have a 88 gulfstream classic 36 footer, im having a problem with the brakes, when I first start driving the brakes work fine but as they get hot they start to stick, and the pedal gets harder and harder. It gets to the point where I have to stop cause its like im driving with my foot on the brake, there is no ebrake, its got a brake around the transmission that ingages when placed in park, we have ruled that out, it seems like all 4 brakes are sticking, which makes me think its a problem with the booster or hydraulic system, im not to familiar with this type of system. a couple of my mechanic friends seem to think its the brake lines, saying they could be plugged and their not allowing the fluid to flow back into the reservior, the motorhome has power assisted brakes and im wondering if it has something to do with that, dont think its the calipers cause they all seem to be sticking, any advice would really help.
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Old 06-11-2011, 02:00 PM   #2
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When was the last time the fluid was flushed out and new put in?
As your friends say. Rubber fluid lines that old can collapse on the inside and stop fluid flow.
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Old 06-11-2011, 02:14 PM   #3
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Hi krazzykitt and

I believe the Classic is a gas coach?
If I were diagnosing your concern I would look first at the brake booster push rod. Note the position cold when brakes are not sticking then duplicate the concern and check again. Also try manually pulling back on the brake pedal after the brakes are warmed up. If that is not the problem then I suspect one or more brake calipers are sticking, and not releasing when hot. This can be caused from lack of maintenance to the brake fluid system. Over a few years moisture can build up inside the brake fluid and cause corrosion to buildup and will cause components to stick and fail. You could try flushing/replacing all the brake fluid first, but it may need the calipers and/or master brake cylinder overhauled if that does not repair it.
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Old 06-11-2011, 02:23 PM   #4
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Yes its gas, I just bought the motorhome, not sure when the fluid was changed last but im sure its been years, if there was a lot of moisture in the system would it cause the brakes to start sticking when hot? I think ill do a flush first, see what that does.
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Old 06-11-2011, 02:28 PM   #5
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Yes. Heat expands components in the brake system, if the calipers will not release, the fluid has no where to go and it will cause the brakes to stay applied.
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Old 06-11-2011, 06:07 PM   #6
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I just had a dragging brake problem fixed on my 95 Winnebago Brave. The front wheels had the caliper dragging. I had to take it to a shop and they changed out the rubber hoses, cleaned up the calipers and turned the rotors. I also had the front end aligned since I had just put on new tires. The bill not counting the tires was just over $700.00
One of those things I guess.
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:24 AM   #7
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What chassis ?
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Old 06-12-2011, 09:32 AM   #8
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I agree, What chassis.. Many WORKHORSE models have Bosch brakes, Now understand there is nothing wrong with BOSCH brakes, the exact same brake system is used on a ton of other vehicles with no problems but these trucks are driven every day.. Motor homes are not, And it's sitting that makes a big difference. The material the brakes pistons is made of can absorb mositure and expand.. This happens if it's sitting.

Workhorse has issued a RECALL on these units. If your Motor home is built upon a Workhorse chassis, contact Workhorse with your VIN to find out if yours is recalled. They will give your additional instrucitons at that time (name/address of nearest few Authorized Service centers) prepare to spend between 1,000 and 2,000 over and above the recall (which is a couple thousand worth of hardware) by the way.
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Old 06-12-2011, 09:56 AM   #9
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I believe this is a chevy chassis. The chevy in this time period used a rubber hose at the caliper. they had a metal clamp at the center of the hose. it was about 3 in. wide. as the hose aged, it swelled. because the clamp held it tight, the hose could not swell out and instead swelled in. this closed off the hose and would not let the fluid pressure release. Remember the pump is supplying very high pressure to the fluid when you press the brake pedal, but you only have static pressure to release. I repaired dozens of these coachs with this problem. It is easy to check this. Jack up the coach. Crank the engine. apply the brakes. release the brakes. try to turn the wheels by hand. If you can't turn the wheel, that hose is bad.
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Old 06-12-2011, 11:16 AM   #10
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I believe its a john deer chassis or oshkosh, it has a ford 460 motor, ford stering wheel, does that mean everything else is ford? Brakes, transmission? one manual I have says it has an oshkosh chassis, but when I enter the vin online it says john deere, anybody know, vin 17N640120JW002397
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Old 06-12-2011, 11:25 AM   #11
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According to CARFAX it's a John Deer chassis.
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:21 PM   #12
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Ford 460 engine and Ford C6 transmission..

Oshkosh Chassis (brakes, suspension, etc..) Now owned by Freightliner and still have the parts, as do many truck/rv shops.

Did you ever get your brake problem solved?
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Old 09-19-2011, 12:16 PM   #13
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One thing that has bitten me.. There are several possible "Issues" with hydraulic brakes.

Now, the Bosch brakes on my Workhorse do not seem to be having the Bosch Brake issue and it will be some time before I can satisfy the recall... so the fact they are not displaying symptoms (So far) is good thing.

My towed, however, did have a caliper lock up on me and overheat taking out the rotor, tire, and so on... Major pain in the .. er.. anatomy.

The diagnosis was a hydraulic hose failure.. Seems the hose is many layers (I knew that) and the inner layer can fail and turn into something resembling a one-way valve, Letting fluid INTO the caliper when you press the pedal.. but not letting it back out.

Result.. A brake job.
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Old 09-20-2011, 08:37 PM   #14
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Yousaid all 4 brakes were applying. I had the same problem with an 86 Komfort on a P-30 chassis. I took it to a Freightliner shop and they had difficulty finding the problem. They replaced the power steering pump (which is tied into the hydro-boost somehow), master cylinder, some new brake lines and fluid but the problem continued. The manager kept trying to contact a retired mechanic who was their brake guy for 30 years or so but he was on vacation. So after I paid a lot of $$ (see above), he gets home. They explain the problem to him and he said it is a common problem with the hydro-boost brake systems. To solve it, pull the piston out of the hydro-boost, shave off .005" and problem will be fixed. They did that and it never happened again.
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