Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-10-2012, 12:09 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
wa8yxm's Avatar
 
Damon Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 22,792
"Screws in the transformer"

Uh, Screws in a transformer? Never seen that.

But I have seen screws in a power distribution panel, (Breaker box) which is where you are working when you replace a breaker.

And yes, I'm fond of saying many RVer's have a few screws loose.. Those, specifically are the very screws I'm speaking of when I say that.. One of mine took 2 1/2 turns before it even started to tighten down.

Fixed a whole bunch of electrical issues that day. All of 'em were loose screws.
__________________

__________________
Home is where I park it!
wa8yxm is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 09-10-2012, 12:36 PM   #16
Registered User


 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 3,198
Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm
My position.. MOST Air conditioners are on a 20 amp line.. So why yours is on a 15, I very simply do not know.

WHAT SIZE WIRE is screwd down on that breaker.

IF the wire is 14ga.. Stick with 15 amp.

If it's 12ga you can "upgrade"

The fact that it is a tandum breaker suggests after market modification.

Note, on the outlets side.. Same thing 14ga wire gets 15 amp breaker, 20 needs a 12ga.
agree completely. My friend often over complicates his replies, but this time he is both brief and on the money.
14g = 15 amp.
12g = 20 amp.

it should actually be printed on the wire, if you can see enough of it.

And 15 amp would be beyond my experience for an a/c unit, they are always 20.
__________________

__________________
JimM68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 12:46 PM   #17
Registered User


 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 3,198
trying to add something useful here...

I have mucho experience trying to run a 30 amp coach, and my current 50 amp coach, on minimal power.

If the voltage drops too low, the a/c's will pop the breaker in the coach. This is NORMAL.

You cannot pull 30 amps continuous off a 30 amp plug, stuff will heat up and eventually melt.

don't forget your converter / inverter battery charger. they can pull a ton of power, and vastly skew your "Cyphering"

Our knights charger, in bulk (100 amp) mode, is pulling 12 amps or more.
Our 15k front a/c pulls 19 amps...
both together = the ems will shed everything so the battery charger will run.
With the old 30 amp pace arrow (under the same conditions) the a/c would drop under 105 volts, the cables would get real hot, and nothing would work right....

In the knight, I can run the front a/c just fine on 30 amps, as long as the charger has switched to "float" if it is in "bulk", fugetabout it...
__________________
JimM68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 02:53 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
PirateCamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Swansea, South Carolina
Posts: 159
My bad, this is what is was. Yep, I'll add that to the long list of stuff to keep an eye on. This thing is as bad as a plane or sailing ship. I've had the pleasure to work with both! We're having fun now!

Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
"Screws in the transformer"

Uh, Screws in a transformer? Never seen that.

But I have seen screws in a power distribution panel, (Breaker box) which is where you are working when you replace a breaker.

And yes, I'm fond of saying many RVer's have a few screws loose.. Those, specifically are the very screws I'm speaking of when I say that.. One of mine took 2 1/2 turns before it even started to tighten down.

Fixed a whole bunch of electrical issues that day. All of 'em were loose screws.
__________________
1988 Coachmen 32 Ft. Sportscoach Pathfinder DL S
Class A gas, Chevy P37 Chassis 7.4L Engine
Retired Army, Swansea, South Carolina
PirateCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 03:12 PM   #19
Junior Member
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by PirateCamper
The prongs of the shore power plug are toasted and the rubber is melted on the main plug as well as the extension plug. The extension is the same size as the main but, half the length. I figure it could be due to near max amps pulled with a poor plug on the pole. I just want to be able to run the Onan and A/C while driving.

I think the Florida owner, previous to the owner I purchased from, installed a water heater that must run alone. I guess they forgot that this coach has only 30 Amps to divide among its toys!

I guess I could back down the output of the Onan to run the A/C at 115 Volts and see what that does. I'm aware I can only run one major thing at a time. Since the engine A/C is non functional, and the doghouse is like a volcano until I can re-cover it with some space shuttle tiles... I'd like to keep the sweat out of my eyes and not roast my Parrots alive!

Going to borrow an Amp meter this week and the truth will set me free! LoL

Thanks for the help, keep it coming.
Breakers are good for 80percent of it's.value. Your ac will be 12/12.5amps never go up.stay with A15amp breaker georgiawoody
__________________
georgiawoody is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 04:38 PM   #20
Member
 
TurbineGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 33
[QUOTE="PirateCamper"]The prongs of the shore power plug are toasted and the rubber is melted on the main plug as well as the extension plug. The extension is the same size as the main but, half the length. I figure it could be due to near max amps pulled with a poor plug on the pole. I just want to be able to run the Onan and A/C while driving.

I think the Florida owner, previous to the owner I purchased from, installed a water heater that must run alone. I guess they forgot that this coach has only 30 Amps to divide among its toys!


Am I the only one that sees the melted plugs as a problem? This is not a normal condition and has apparently been overheated, I would be concerned what the wiring in the coach is like. If you are not electrical savvy I would take GuitarLefty's advice and employ an electrician. We're it mine and plugged in at the house I would open the breaker box that feeds the coach and hang a clamp-on ammeter on the hot wire for the outlet breaker and chart/monitor the current that the coach draws when things are turned on. Based on what you have said, I would suspect that the water heater the previous owner installed would be rated higher than what you are trying to supply.

Just my thoughts,
__________________
TurbineGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 08:28 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
PirateCamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Swansea, South Carolina
Posts: 159
So, we've decided to forgo using the on board hot water when we are in a campground when showers are available. I can't even find the freaking water heater! I see where the wires go into the shower wall from the dinette seat. There is a grated access panel outside with a spring loaded pull and twist latch. It has a "HOT" warning sticker inside it. I can't make heads or tails of it as there are no water fittings or wires to be seen.

We will just use the showers in camp and keep water on board for the toilet and hand washing. Bottled water will be kept for drinking.

I just want the flipping A/C to run off the Onan while driving!!!!

Is that to much to ask of the RV GODS???

If we do a Pirate event and have to boon dock, we will run ONLY the water heater as needed and nothing else and go from there. We got this RV so we could do our Pirate living history events with one vehicle, take the parrots safely, and go in a bit more comfort. As a plus, we can take a vacation or two during the year.http://www.irv2.com/forums/images/smilies/redface.gif

Above all we want the birds to be safe. We have the OEM gas/carbon monoxide detector.
__________________
1988 Coachmen 32 Ft. Sportscoach Pathfinder DL S
Class A gas, Chevy P37 Chassis 7.4L Engine
Retired Army, Swansea, South Carolina
PirateCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 08:48 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
PirateCamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Swansea, South Carolina
Posts: 159
This has bugged me from the time I saw the cooked blades on the plugs. The rubber is only melted a very small amount near one blade on both the main and extension plug. I have already purchased a new plug for both the main and extension. Still, a little melting is like a little dead or pregnant.

The wiring I have looked at so far, seems to be in good shape. The only other melting is just a tiny bit on the end of the A/C wire at the breaker.

There are a couple of places, like behind the headlights, where it looks like monkeys were released with spools of wire and crimping tools. All the lights work, so I'll brave that mess much later.

I'm hoping the burning came from near full amp load (water heater) and a worn plug at the campground. I'll get an ammeter of my own so I can monitor the coach and the power pole in the future. And I thought this was going to be FUN!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TurbineGuy View Post
Am I the only one that sees the melted plugs as a problem? This is not a normal condition and has apparently been overheated, I would be concerned what the wiring in the coach is like. If you are not electrical savvy I would take GuitarLefty's advice and employ an electrician. We're it mine and plugged in at the house I would open the breaker box that feeds the coach and hang a clamp-on ammeter on the hot wire for the outlet breaker and chart/monitor the current that the coach draws when things are turned on. Based on what you have said, I would suspect that the water heater the previous owner installed would be rated higher than what you are trying to supply.

Just my thoughts,
__________________
1988 Coachmen 32 Ft. Sportscoach Pathfinder DL S
Class A gas, Chevy P37 Chassis 7.4L Engine
Retired Army, Swansea, South Carolina
PirateCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 10:05 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
PirateCamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Swansea, South Carolina
Posts: 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by PirateCamper View Post
... I can't even find the freaking water heater! I see where the wires go into the shower wall from the dinette seat. There is a grated access panel outside with a spring loaded pull and twist latch. It has a "HOT" warning sticker inside it. I can't make heads or tails of it as there are no water fittings or wires to be seen...
OK, went back out with a flash light. There is a label, Atwood water heater. Label is faded. It has a white curved in surface. There are a few holes that are plugged from the rear with silver sheet metal. I'll remove the screws around the edge of the door and see whats behind it. I'll post it tomorrow.
__________________
1988 Coachmen 32 Ft. Sportscoach Pathfinder DL S
Class A gas, Chevy P37 Chassis 7.4L Engine
Retired Army, Swansea, South Carolina
PirateCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2012, 08:32 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
PirateCamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Swansea, South Carolina
Posts: 159
Water heater recommendations please

I found what I expected, and hoped I would not...

There is a panel just ahead of the left rear wheel. This is where the OEM water heater USED to be. The Florida owner cut the floor open and installed a residential water heater.

(I purchased from a local owner who has had the coach for the last two years)

The floor under it is patched in near rotten plywood and paper thin sheet metal. One solid bump and I think this thing would be in the road in front of the tandem wheels! So long everything hooked to or tangled with it and pretty much that side of the coach! Wow, I still can't get over it.

It looks like a 20 or 30 gallon tank. It only has one element.

So, now I'm thinking of what kind of water heater to install. The on demand type seems like the way to go.

I'm open to ideas. Thanks!
__________________
1988 Coachmen 32 Ft. Sportscoach Pathfinder DL S
Class A gas, Chevy P37 Chassis 7.4L Engine
Retired Army, Swansea, South Carolina
PirateCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2012, 08:51 PM   #25
Member
 
TurbineGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 33
Well that would seem to resolve your over draw issue on your breaker. The breaker was doing his job, might as well reward it by not firing it (there's enough of that going on in the US these days). Now all you have ahead of you is a simple patch job and a new w/h to install. Simple as pie.
__________________
TurbineGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2012, 09:42 AM   #26
Senior Member
 
PirateCamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Swansea, South Carolina
Posts: 159
I may just remove the water heater all together and forget about it for now. We plan to shower in the campground anyway. If we boondock for a Pirate event, the water in the holding tank will be ambient anyway, so it will be warm enough to rinse off. I do plan to repair the hole back to standard and seal everything up. Just in case...
__________________
1988 Coachmen 32 Ft. Sportscoach Pathfinder DL S
Class A gas, Chevy P37 Chassis 7.4L Engine
Retired Army, Swansea, South Carolina
PirateCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2012, 12:50 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
PirateCamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Swansea, South Carolina
Posts: 159
Picture of the residential water heater



Here is a shot of the water heater. Inside the OEM water heater compartment. I know, right?
__________________
1988 Coachmen 32 Ft. Sportscoach Pathfinder DL S
Class A gas, Chevy P37 Chassis 7.4L Engine
Retired Army, Swansea, South Carolina
PirateCamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2012, 08:11 PM   #28
Member
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Cochran GA
Posts: 79
Twenty amp breaker is fine "IF' your wiring to the AC is at least 12GA if the manufacturer tried to skimp and used 14 then you are screwed. Most modern roof top AC units run around 13 amp, pulling considerably more when the compressor starts. So 20 amp is not excessive on 12 GA wire. If you have two AC's make sure they are wired separately on different legs of 240VAC, or if you only have 30 amps, different breakers. BTW there exist a device designed to only allow one compressor to start at a time. Available at industrial supply houses, requires re-wire.
__________________

__________________
Winnebago Journey 2002 CT34, Cummins ISB 275 HP, Allison 2000 5 speed, Air Dog Rapter Lift pump, TOAD; Xterra 2012 4X4 Auto, driveshaft disconnect. ATT MOBLEY, $20 unlimited internet.
GAGypsy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
motorhome



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:54 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.