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Old 09-13-2012, 08:13 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PirateCamper View Post


Here is a shot of the water heater. Inside the OEM water heater compartment. I know, right?
that looks like residential unit?
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:18 PM   #30
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Yep, that's what it is. They pulled the OEM and tore out the floor under it and shoved this thing up in there and cobbled up the floor. It is coming out and another OEM gas unit is going back in.
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:51 PM   #31
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You mentioned an on demand system. Did you look in to that? Do they make one for RVs or is it best to simply install an RV water heater?
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:53 PM   #32
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Did you get this unit from Texas, and was it previously registered in Georgia?
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:56 PM   #33
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They make a demand system for RV,s but it is $$$ALTY! Standard unit with Hot Rod or electric element is better buy. 10Gal is plenty of hot water. never run out with gas.
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:02 PM   #34
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I got it in Columbia, SC from the person whom purchased it from a Florida owner.

All the modifications were done in Florida. Small window unit A/C under the bed mounted through the rear wall, this water heater and a futon in the front that is not bolted down.



\\
Quote:
Originally Posted by GAGypsy View Post
Did you get this unit from Texas, and was it previously registered in Georgia?
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:07 PM   #35
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I found several. They are electric, but a few are gas. One can be had for between $170 and $300. They go up from there. You can get between 1 and 3 gallons per hour of hot water 110 - 140 degrees. For around $150 you can get "warmer" water at point of use. I may still go the on demand route. Not sure yet. After I sell the Pop-up I'll have some cash and we'll see then.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TurbineGuy View Post
You mentioned an on demand system. Did you look in to that? Do they make one for RVs or is it best to simply install an RV water heater?
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Old 09-16-2012, 03:36 PM   #36
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Problem is solved!

OK, label inside A/C says: Volt 115, Hertz 60, minimum circuit ampacity 17.5, maximum overcharge protective device 20.

The Onan was running to fast. Brought the RPM's back into spec and volts are dead on 120 & Hertz dead on 60. My amp test showed 16 amps drawn while it was 80 outside through the A/C hot wire AND the 30 amp main breaker wire.

My thoughts now are that somebody put the A/C wire on the 15 amp side of the 15/20 circuit breaker by mistake. It draws more than that hence the flipping. I have it on the 20 amp side now.

Everything else in the coach draws under 15 amps, except the residential water heater which I have now disconnected and plan to remove.

The Microwave is a 1988 Magic Chef and it draws 11.5 amps. I think I have it set right now. All the appliances are 15 amps except the A/C. This must be why the breakers are: 30/15; 15/20; 15/15;

Should I not be able to run the A/C AND the microwave at the same time IF they are on separate breakers? Just wondering...

Thanks for all the advice and help. I hope this helps others.
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