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Old 01-03-2015, 08:34 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfpgb View Post
I agree with Ray. You are not correcting the real problem.

Can you hear the relay click or the circuit breaker trip. Maybe you can find it by letting it trip and reset. Listen for a slight click and maybe you can find the breaker and relay.
My DW located the relay while I worked the switch. It clicks when headlights are turned On, but there is no click when I activate the High beams, or when they begin their cycling Off and On. The thermal fuses don't click.

I think Bulbs are ruled out because I've swapped them eight ways to Sunday, and no change. Voltage at each of the 4 bulb plugs is the same (12.80 on SP).

Thermal fuses should be ruled out because swapping them for regular fuses had no effect. Since none of the fuses blew, seems that a High voltage overloand is a red herring.

Bad ground ought to be ruled out because you can set your watch by the cycle times.

This smacks of a thermal fuse that we haven't located yet, but could it be possible to have Two thermal devices on on circuit?

What else to try?? It's either this or take down Christmas decorations in the house
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Old 01-03-2015, 08:51 AM   #30
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I would suggest you find all of the fuse boxes on your coach. Open each and look on the lid of the fuse box it will tell you what the fuses, breakers and relays control. You should be able to find the ones that control the headlights. In many cases there could be 3 or more fuse boxes - under the hood, under the dash and in the power control box.
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Old 01-03-2015, 09:07 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Denniscw View Post
I would suggest you find all of the fuse boxes on your coach. Open each and look on the lid of the fuse box it will tell you what the fuses, breakers and relays control. You should be able to find the ones that control the headlights. In many cases there could be 3 or more fuse boxes - under the hood, under the dash and in the power control box.

At this point, I'm ready to re-think everything that I've done, and inspecting fuse boxes again is a good place to start.

The coach has three boxes. One on the firewall in front of the driver's foot, a second below and left (which is where the relay and thermal breakers are) and a third in the MBR.

I have not checked the MBR box at all, because it isn't logical. That will change. I'll do it and report back.

If anybody with Freighliner XC chassis knows of other boxes, please chime in.
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Old 01-03-2015, 10:37 AM   #32
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I would suggest you find all of the fuse boxes on your coach. Open each and look on the lid of the fuse box it will tell you what the fuses, breakers and relays control. You should be able to find the ones that control the headlights. In many cases there could be 3 or more fuse boxes - under the hood, under the dash and in the power control box.
on a 2006/2007 Freightline XC Chassis, this is what I found:

1. Fusebox holding LH and RH headlamp fuses, and a relay for them. It is in the front LH basement where the hydraulic pump is located. Immediately aft of the firewall where all lighting wires pass through

2. Driver's footwell panel. Nothing seems related to lights, but let me know if you see something I should try.

3. MBR breakers. Ditto to comments about #2.
NOTE: since #3 is breakers, they aren't the type to re-set, so can we rule box 3 out?

Double click on any photo to enlarge it for reading purposes.

Thoughts? Could I be missing a fuse box?
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Old 01-03-2015, 10:47 AM   #33
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Do you have DRLs?
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Old 01-03-2015, 10:55 AM   #34
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Do you have DRLs?
Negative; just fogs, Low and High beams in separate containers
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Old 01-03-2015, 11:07 AM   #35
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For #3, I'm turning all breakers OFF. If headlights work, then we can eliminate fuse box 3. UPDATE: box #3 has nothing to do with headlights and brights....

For #1, I removed both 15A thermal breakers and lights didn't work, so we know that these are the thermal breakers (although the cycling continues when I replace them with regular breakers)

I will next remove the relay in order to confirm that this is the driver for those fuses.

UPDATE: power goes through fuses to relay, not the other way around. Remove relay and headlights still work (but no brights). Install relay and brights work and cycle; even swapping the two relays out doesn't change anything about cycling.
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Old 01-03-2015, 11:08 AM   #36
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Negative; just fogs, Low and High beams in separate containers
DRLs generally are not separate lights but use either the low beams or high beams at 1/2 power. Actually, 1/2 power is not totally correct because what DRLs do is rapidly pulse 12V making it appear to be 1/2 power. Mine are activated whenever the coach is in gear and the AUX brake is released.

In my case, and why I had to do so much work to disable them, is that the Spartan controller defaults to using the low beams for DRLs...BUT...if the controller doesn't detect the low beams working properly it will move DRL functions to the high beams.

OK...my point is that you might need to double check this assuming that you haven't done so already. I hate to too much on that DRL thing but in my case I didn't know I had a black box that controlled my lights until Spartan sent me some schematics. The controller might not be obvious if you have something similar.

If you truly don't have DRLs...PUNT!
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Old 01-03-2015, 11:23 AM   #37
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Old 01-03-2015, 12:10 PM   #38
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Enjoy the popcorn, it sure must be tasting better than the dirt I'm eating on this adventure
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Old 01-03-2015, 12:46 PM   #39
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Have you tried checking your BCC (Battery Control Center) for loose connection? It happen to my RV. It might help checking it.
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Old 01-03-2015, 12:53 PM   #40
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OK...my point is that you might need to double check this assuming that you haven't done so already. I hate to too much on that DRL thing but in my case I didn't know I had a black box that controlled my lights until Spartan sent me some schematics. The controller might not be obvious if you have something similar.

If you truly don't have DRLs...PUNT!
Well, it looks like I'm still in the game, then. Ran the engine, lifted jacks, released air brake and.................and we do have DRLs on this coach. The DRLs are controlled by the air brake switch, so how does that impact high beams killing all lights?
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Old 01-03-2015, 01:30 PM   #41
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Well, it looks like I'm still in the game, then. Ran the engine, lifted jacks, released air brake and.................and we do have DRLs on this coach. The DRLs are controlled by the air brake switch, so how does that impact high beams killing all lights?
That just seems to indicate to me that there is possibly another controller board/circuit that may be part of the problem. If you have something similar to my controller there may not be any user serviceable parts and thus it might require replacement if defective. When you call tech support find out if that is the case and you might be able to get enough info to trouble shoot that unit.

See if you can get copies of your chassis wiring. It can be very confusing at first and make your eyes cross. It takes time to figure out when one part of the wiring jumps from one page to another.
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Old 01-03-2015, 01:46 PM   #42
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We've just learned that the coach does, in fact, have DRLs that are controlled by the air brake. What that has to do with the high beam problem is unknown.

There might be something worth pursuing with the voltage getting to the thermal fuses; one side 11.50 and the other side in the mid 8V range. That said, both sides look very bright, and voltage at the bulb plugs is constant at 12.80.

All bulbs check for continuity, as do the thermal fuses. Switching bulbs around, switching fuses around, and switching relays around = no change.


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very interesting post. First I am intrigued by the fact that you have two thermal breakers (circuit breakers ?) If that is the case and you are losing both of your high beams the issue seems to be where the voltage comes into the circuit breakers. With the circuit breakers out you are getting one voltage on the one for the right and a higher voltage on the one for the left ?

Leave the right one thermal breaker out and hook everything back up normal. Turn on the high beams and see if they go out. After you have tried that put the right breaker back in and remove the left one. Put the lights on High beam and see if they go out. I do not know if having 4 of the same bulbs on your coach is normal or not. But assuming they have been in there the whole time and it has worked before I am going to assume that is not your problem. Yes having a low voltage could cause a ckt breaker to trip. lower voltage = higher current could equal a tripped breaker. Although I am not sure that is your problem. In the area that you found the circuit breakers there are probably some other fuses. What do they read when you check them. I would also probably check my chassis battery to see what you have for the voltage you are starting with. I would not be surprised if they are reading 11.51 volts. I think this is a good stopping place and wait until you have seen with one side disabled if the problem still occurs. Also check continuity of the bulbs all three pins to each other see if they are the same or within about 10 per cent of each other.
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