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Old 01-03-2015, 02:23 PM   #43
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Knowing you have a DRL and that yours is also controlled by the Park Brake switch can help you trace a schematic to find if you have some kind of controller board/circuit you haven't found yet. The schematics will identify where that lead from the brake switch goes to and by doing that you should have the full picture on all the circuits that tie into your headlight system. You should also be able to get a description of how such a board works and how to trouble shoot it. At least I was able to get all of that from Spartan.

None of what you have found so far seems to indicate you have a problem with bulbs, relays or fuses per se. The fact that you have swapped out thermal fuses with non-thermal and nothing changes seems to confirm that.

Still...it is vexing to figure out why these cycles are fairly consistent in repeating themselves. That tends to make me believe there is some kind of heat build up in some part of your system that is causing this. The precision of this cycle is baffling to me. Still...continuing to beat that dead horse...it seems that the only thing you can't easily swap out and play with for testing is some kind of controlling board you haven't found yet. Back in the days I worked with power controlling circuit boards I ran across a couple situations similar to this but not with such precision.
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Old 01-03-2015, 03:22 PM   #44
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From what I saw of the air brake unit, I'm going to talk with Freightliner before doing anything more to it.
Not having brights is an aggravation, but not having air brakes is a whole lot worse.
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Old 01-03-2015, 07:00 PM   #45
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This is very inserting. Yesterday after we had a wheel alignment on our 2007 monaco we picked up rig to start heading south on i5 at 6pm I turned on headlights and nothing. I pulled the brights lever and lights came on. I then pulled again to dim and no lights headlights low or high. The dimmer lever switch now when pulled had no switch connection it moved but no switch action. I had the tech try to fix.. Fuse ok and he believes it is the dimmer lever switch that is the problem. I guess I would have to order this from monaco. Theses maybe related?
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Old 01-03-2015, 07:09 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamaboy473 View Post
From what I saw of the air brake unit, I'm going to talk with Freightliner before doing anything more to it.
Not having brights is an aggravation, but not having air brakes is a whole lot worse.
Good Idea! LOL

FWIW, There isn't a direct connect between the mechanics of the AUX brake and your lights. Releasing the aux brakes activates a sensor that feeds a signal to my control board and probably other systems that use it as a safety lock out signal.
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Old 01-03-2015, 09:12 PM   #47
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A fellow member sent me a link that uses two 9004 bulbs in order to reduce the amount of current consumed by 4 9007s (8 filaments burning)

What I really paid attention to (in that schematic) was the presence of 4 relays, not 1 like I seem to have. That raises a question in my mind.

Is it possible that my coach is running just two thermal fuses and one relay to power all lights (Low, High and Fog) ?
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Old 01-03-2015, 11:45 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamaboy473 View Post
A fellow member sent me a link that uses two 9004 bulbs in order to reduce the amount of current consumed by 4 9007s (8 filaments burning)

What I really paid attention to (in that schematic) was the presence of 4 relays, not 1 like I seem to have. That raises a question in my mind.

Is it possible that my coach is running just two thermal fuses and one relay to power all lights (Low, High and Fog) ?
I don't think so. You could certainly have one set of fuses that protect your relay controls and then another set protecting the higher current needs for power through the relays to the lights. The current to control the relays is not much at all so there shouldn't be any need for thermal fuses there. The only need for the thermal fuses would be for the higher current of the lights themselves.

Daniel Stern was a great help when I set up my new lights. He talked me out of 4 relays for the individual highland low beams. I have one relay for each set and each relay has 2 outputs. I run 20A fuses for each relay.

Regarding the 9007 vs the 9004...

The problem with 9004 is that its low-beam is only 45 watts, compared to other types (H4, 9007, etc) that have 55W low-beam. Obviously this makes 9004 weaker than the other bulbs.

For this reason, some people try and swap 9007's into the 9004 socket (to get the 9007's 55W low-beam), often with poor results (they look like they are interchangeable but they are not because high and low beam are switched around).

Additionally, the filaments of these 2 bulbs types are not even oriented the same. That would make proper adjustments IMPOSSIBLE.

I'm at a loss whey someone would try to use lower power light bulbs when the system was designed for the stock set up?

Personally, I would take some time and investigate the info I included about Daniel Stern and how to make sure you get the most out of your light system. That doesn't mean you have or need to go as far as I did but building my own wire harness and relays to control my lights was a great project and I really feel I have a solid, bullet proof system. Even if it isn't for you, the information he provides is invaluable on learning the basics of lighting systems and how they should work.
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Old 01-04-2015, 07:53 AM   #49
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Looks like I'm going to do some more digging and cut all zipties that are holding that giant mass of electrical spaghetti under the dashboard. Move it around in order to learn whether there're any more relays on the firewall. It's doubtful from what I've seen so far, but its the only place that more could be located.

The thought about 9004s was that they put out less wattage, and if the thermal didn't blow when using them, we'd learn that the thermals were, in fact, weak.

If I don't find any more control relays, then its a wait for the Freightliner guys.
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Old 01-05-2015, 09:18 AM   #50
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Speaking of headlights, does anyone know the car replacement headlight for my 2007 Fleetwood Revolution LE?
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Old 01-05-2015, 09:35 AM   #51
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Speaking of headlights, does anyone know the car replacement headlight for my 2007 Fleetwood Revolution LE?
easiest way to find out is to remove existing lightbulb and read it. You'll have to know how in order to replace it, anyway.

Brights might be different, so check them, too.

If you have the time to wait for shipping, go to waytek.com
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Old 01-05-2015, 09:59 AM   #52
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Speaking of headlights, does anyone know the car replacement headlight for my 2007 Fleetwood Revolution LE?
Fleetwood customer support, perhaps parts support should be able to help you with that. You would be surprised at the off-the-shelf headlight assemblies used by MH makers. If yours are OTS headlights you should be able to find them cheaper on Amazon or Ebay than through Fleetwood.

The trick is if Fleetwood provides a "vendor number" of some kind you can google. Newmar does that.

OH HECK...just for grins I set up a sign on to Fleetwood and plugged in your model but I can only search back to 2009 so...call them. LOL

OR...googling I found these

Ebay

Of course, if you are only looking for the actual light bulb...Bamaboy said it all.
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Old 01-06-2015, 07:41 AM   #53
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FINAL UPDATE:

Well, Gentlemen, we couldn't find the answer because...er, there isn't one!

Sometimes we get tripped up because the manufacturer led us astray. Freightliner rep said, "Oh yes, the off/on/off headlight routine.".

Seems that FL made the chassis' for use with all-in-one types of headlight assemblys, and then Mandalay changed what they wanted and installed separate lights. They did this by tapping into the module with a different harness, but the power draw was more than it could handle. That explains why only one relay and two thermals, rather than a 2/4 configuration that would be normal. The problem has probably been there since the coach was new.

Freightliner said, "No problem, here's a part number for the harness that will fix your problem." Ooops, NLA.

Looks like I put the dashboard back together, install LEDs in place of the headlight bulbs, and use hi beams sparingly. OTOH, I could use that as a reason to get a new MH, lol.

A strong THANKS to all those that persevered in trying to get this question to the end of the rainbow.
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:03 AM   #54
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I would then STRONGLY suggest you go through Daniel Stern and rewire your headlights per his diagrams. That is not really a very difficult project and not very expensive either. The most difficult part will be finding how to disable your DRLs...maybe. I say "maybe" because if you don't mess around with changing your lights from halogen to some other system with ballasts then perhaps it might not require that. However, since I went a different route I am not sure about that.

BTW...looking at your coach pictures did they install Hella 90 MM halogen lights like these?

Low Beams:


High Beams:



I'm a little doubtful they did because of the light bulbs you talk about. Both of these modules use the H9 bulb.

Regardless...PM me if you want more information on how Stern's wire harness set up works and some background information on the installation. Most of Stern's work is with car set ups so he and I had to work through a couple issues on power delivery when batteries are more than a few feet away from the lights themselves. It is pretty easy if you have a generator up front.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:14 AM   #55
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Why not add a separate heavy gauge wire and relay of your own?
Remove the power lead from the bulb to drive the relay. Now the chassis circuit is no longer overloaded.
Your new circuit should have less voltage drop.
All this can be done on the firewall.
Use a thermal fuse in this circuit also.

Dan
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:22 AM   #56
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Check your wiring schematics if you have them. The CB location should be indicated on the schematic. I have found the CB on the fuse panel. They look more like a metal covered fuse, albeit larger.
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