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Old 04-13-2012, 08:20 AM   #15
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One thing to try before you cut the old plug off. If the connections are OK, it is sometimes possible to slide the outer jacket back into the plug. Leave it out in the sun to warm up, grab the outer jacket a about 1/2 way from the plug & try sliding it towards the plug. Do it a couple of times, working your way towards the plug. If it slides back into the plug, glue it in place.

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Old 04-13-2012, 09:12 AM   #16
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If you are buying bare cord to make your own, avoid any that have a "T" in the description. The "T" stands for thermoplastic, which gets stiff in cold weather.

More than you want to know about cord:

S types without the "J" are 600v Extra Hard Usage Service Grade.
SJ types are 300v Junior Hard Service Grade.

Code does not specify which cord type (S or SJ) is required for an RV, only length (minimum of 25'). Although SJ cords are lighter & less expensive, they are more easily damaged. Type S cords have thicker jackets, more fillers, and are much tougher (most could be used as a tow chain).

Either can be made with a thermoplastic or synthetic rubber jacket. Thermoplastic insulations are less expensive, but get very stiff when cold, while synthetic rubber are flexible warm or cold, but cost quite a bit more than thermoplastic. To add even more confusion, there are Thermoset cord types that can have good cold flexibility.

The "O" stands for oil resistant and can be added to either weight cord.

An additional "O" stands for additional oil resistance, a "W" for weather resistant. If there is a "T" in the cord description, it will be thermoplastic, however some thermoplastic cords leave out the "T".

Carol Wire produces both an S & SJ "Super Vu-Tron" rubber cord, however #10 is the largest size available on a standard order. This is an extremely flexible cord even below freezing.

Coleman Wire manufactures Seoprene 105 SEOOW & SJEOOW cord that is rated as extremely flexible at cold temperatures.

More information at LEX Products and Coleman Wire.

Lastly, most of the cord you can purchase at your local big box hardware store will be thermoplastic. You will need to go to a real electrical supplier to get the better quality cords, and they will not be inexpensive.

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Old 04-14-2012, 09:48 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
x3 on the power grip, IN fact I cut my oem plug off just so I could put one on!

They come in two sizes 30 amp and 50 amp.
When I replaced my 30amp, I did so with a 50. Got tired of the cooking you see so much of on the 30's and taking good care of yours doesn't always help. Plugging in to loose and crystallized pedestal outlets, transfers the heat and damage to your plug, so problem solved with using a 50. Just be sure to carry a 30/50 converter cord on board, just as you would have a 50/30.
Now, before the critical mathematical EE's jump in here, keep in mind that they do make 50/30amp converter cords that are used extensively throughout American campgrounds.
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:54 AM   #18
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Ended up replacing the entire cord (cable). My EE friend got a 28 ft piece of 6/4 cable. We put on the Camco plug and then visited the RV in storage and installed the new cord. This cable is much more flexible than the one Tiffin installed. I can coil up the new one. He also put barrel connectors in the wire ends that go into the transfer box to insure a tight fit.
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Old 04-14-2012, 02:10 PM   #19
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vermilye...nice in depth post. Appreciate the info. Bob

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