Community Forums

drinms · 09-23-2014, 07:05 PM

I would like to hear the opinions of those with experience using butyl tape to seal windows - what brand of butyl tape do you recommend and what sealant should we finish the job with? We are in the process of restoring a 1995 Jamboree Searcher and some of the windows have leaked in the past. We will be removing all of the windows and reinstalling them with new tape and sealant. I have seen the answer to this question but I have searched with no success. Thanks in advance for your responses.

Mac99 · 09-23-2014, 08:27 PM

GE Silicone II caulk

Guanaco · 09-23-2014, 09:49 PM

I just removed and replaced two windows on my 2000 Journey. I picked up a roll of butyl tape from my local RV parts store (I'm not even sure if it had a brand name written on it). I fully cleaned both surfaces and pressed the tape onto the window frame before inserting it into the hole. By the time the window was fully tightened down from the inside, enough of the sealant had extruded all around to convince me the seal was good, and I trimmed off the excess tape.

I went ahead and laid down a small bead of caulk around the outside edge, although I doubt it offers much more security than the butyl tape itself.

akeyzoo · 09-24-2014, 12:42 PM

I restored my dual panes and used dicor butyl tape. no need for silicone with that.

Cajunman · 09-24-2014, 12:56 PM

I used butyl tape (not sure the brand) picked up from my local lumber yard. 100% silicon around the frame after widow is installed. (Fill in the gaps where the corrugations of the siding doesn't touch the widow frame.)

bruceisla · 09-24-2014, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akeyzoo

I restored my dual panes and used dicor butyl tape. no need for silicone with that.

Totally agree !!

And stay away from silicone sealer ... there are far better RV products (like Dicor sealants).

Falcon190 · 09-24-2014, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cajunman

I used butyl tape (not sure the brand) picked up from my local lumber yard. 100% silicon around the frame after widow is installed. (Fill in the gaps where the corrugations of the siding doesn't touch the widow frame.)

I resealed all the windows a few years ago with butyl tape in my Class B and not a single leak since then, even in the worst of the PNW downpours!

I learned to stay away from "putty tape". Make sure it's Butyl Tape. And I totally agree - no silicone!

az bound · 09-24-2014, 01:25 PM

I use 3M butyl tape. Its available at Lowes and Home Depot. Forget the silicone.

bruceisla · 09-24-2014, 02:34 PM

BTW, try to get 1" instead of 3/4" .... fits around corners a bit better. Just trim any excess that oozes out with a plastic knife or the corner of a credit card.

C-PHartley · 09-24-2014, 03:10 PM

I had a tech at Newmar tell me to use butyl tape on the top and both sides. But not to tape the bottom. He claimed that this method would allow any moisture to drain. This doesn't make sense to me. I would think that driving in the rain would allow water vapor to enter the bottom and into the wall. Are you guys taping all 4 sides of the window?

Thanks for your ideas

Pigman1 · 09-24-2014, 03:59 PM

Use the butyl tape all the way around the window. After installing and tightening the window a small thin bead of silicone sealant can be used over the top of the window and 3-4" down each side. This will stop moisture from running behind the windows and laying on the butyl behind the window frame. No problem with water there until it freezes and starts compromising the seal.

az bound · 09-24-2014, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C-PHartley

I had a tech at Newmar tell me to use butyl tape on the top and both sides. But not to tape the bottom. He claimed that this method would allow any moisture to drain. This doesn't make sense to me. I would think that driving in the rain would allow water vapor to enter the bottom and into the wall. Are you guys taping all 4 sides of the window?

Thanks for your ideas

Yes!!!
And be sure to note if there are any spacers and put them back in their original location.

bruceisla · 09-25-2014, 05:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pigman1

Use the butyl tape all the way around the window. After installing and tightening the window a small thin bead of silicone sealant can be used over the top of the window and 3-4" down each side. This will stop moisture from running behind the windows and laying on the butyl behind the window frame. No problem with water there until it freezes and starts compromising the seal.

If you have water collecting behind a window, the butyl was not wide enough when installed or the top seal was not trimmed properly. It should have a very slight bevel ... like house windows (the glass pane) back when individual panes were installed and glazed. It's a bit of a lost art ...

How to Glaze a Window (Single Pane): The Family Handyman

Pigman1 · 09-25-2014, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bruceisla

If you have water collecting behind a window, the butyl was not wide enough when installed or the top seal was not trimmed properly. It should have a very slight bevel ... like house windows (the glass pane) back when individual panes were installed and glazed. It's a bit of a lost art ...

How to Glaze a Window (Single Pane): The Family Handyman

Interesting. When I reinstalled the driver side window after a Norcold refrig swap out, I used the same size tape in the same location the factory uses on all window installs. Tiffin does not allow any butyl tape to squeeze out of the window frames on any of their windows. I believe this is because it is just about impossible to control the amount of squeeze out by how tight they make the window screws and come out with a job that looks uniform on each window and the same across the coach. Ergo, smaller tape and use the top bead to deal with possible ice.