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Old 07-20-2015, 12:04 AM   #1
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Can I easily upgrade my generator like this?

Hi, my 1999 Dolphin has a Generac Q-55G generator. I would like to replace it with a Q-72G generator. They are dimensionally identical. The only difference is the 72G has two 30 amp breakers and puts out more power, obviously than the 55G which has a 20 amp and a 30 amp breaker. Just looking to see if I can run both a/c units while going down the road and I found one I can get very reasonable with low hours.

I know Onan is the best and Generac no longer provides RV generators. This one just happens to have come out of an RV and is the larger of the two sizes that could be had at the time of manufacture. So I was thinking it would be a relatively easy swap. I just don't want to fry my electrical system in the coach. Thanks.
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Old 07-20-2015, 01:24 AM   #2
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From my experiences, I am not sure I agree with the 'Oman' is best comment...


As for being able to do your swap, suggest to check the size of the wiring in the RV on that existing 20a breaker feed.
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Old 07-20-2015, 07:11 AM   #3
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Can't speak to your desired swap, but I wonder why you need more generator to run both A/C's while driving. I have the same generator and can run both A/C's all day on the Generac. The 30 amp Generac circuit should provide power for one A/C and the rest of the coach, while the 20 amp circuit provides power to your second A/C unit. Do breakers trip? If so, could the issue be a weak circuit breaker(s) on the generator or a weak 30 amp breaker in the coach?
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Old 07-20-2015, 09:18 AM   #4
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no it will not be a direct swap. you have one 20 amp breaker on the existing generator. The wiring for that will probably be a lighter gauge wiring than the other for the 30 amp breaker. YOU will be installing a generator with two 30 amp breakers which means the existing wiring will be fed by a breaker with more current capacity than the wiring which can result in a fire. I do not know what your coach is wired with. Check the wiring going to the two generator breakers you have now. If it is identical to both breakers then you can swap. If one is lighter than the other you will have to change the wire between it and the main fuse panel.
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Old 07-20-2015, 04:56 PM   #5
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You should be able to run both A/C units now.. the 20 amp breaker should feed one (usually the rear) A/C and nothing else
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Old 07-20-2015, 06:57 PM   #6
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Looking at the two manuals, both generators have the same exact internal wiring. The larger one has a larger second winding and circuit breaker. It should be a direct swap. External wiring should not be a problem for the relatively short distances.

However, with that all said, the drawings show one of the configurations is 30amp supplying your normal 120vac system and the 20amp winding supplying your second air conditioner. That brings me to the question. Your Air Conditioner should be able to run on a 20amp circuit. You may need to replace the compressor starting capacitor, clean the filters and coils and again be able to run as before. There is also the possibility that the beaker itself is going soft. Each time they are tripped shortens its life.


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Old 07-20-2015, 11:37 PM   #7
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I have thought about replacing the 20 amp breaker. But when I read the original brochure for my coach, it says right in there that you "may" not be able to run both a/c units on just the generator.

I guess I'll start with just replacing the breaker. It's only $25. As for the a/c units, the rear one went bad so I was going to replace them both as they're both originals, with new Dometic Brisk Air II units.
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Old 07-21-2015, 01:11 AM   #8
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I run both AC's with the same Generac Q55G. I had problems with the 20 amp breaker tripping, problem was that the converter/charger and rear AC were both on the 20 amp breaker. The only time the breaker would trip was when the charger was in bulk mode. I moved the charger breaker to the 30 amp buss and moved a breaker with less load to it's position. If your Dolphin is wired the same as mine the with #6 gauge wire to the breaker panel in the bedroom the Q72G will work.
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Old 07-21-2015, 10:28 PM   #9
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Unfortunately nothing on my breaker panel is marked. I guess I'll have to figure that out sooner or later anyways. I'll see what that 20 amp breaker is controling. I'm pretty sure the microwave is on the same buss as the rear a/c, so that could be an issue right there.
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Old 07-21-2015, 10:40 PM   #10
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Really, if you have a 20A and 30A breaker on your genset, then you can already run both ACs on genset. On the road or off. It's designed for that. I've not seen a RV that had the MW on the same circuit as the rear AC. Plus that seems to me to be an overload.

Now, here's the trick. The 20A circuit BYPASSES the CB panel in the RV because it's not used by the rest of the RV. Only by the rear AC. So you can't find a breaker for it in the RVs CB panel because there isn't one. It's on the genset, as you already told us.

It's easy to test. Disconnect from shore power, start the genset. Turn on the front AC, wait a minute for it to settle, then, turn on the rear AC. After a few minutes, warm up something in the MW, turn on the TV, etc. That should show you what's up.
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Old 07-21-2015, 11:08 PM   #11
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As far as the swap, I swapped out my 5.5kw with a 7.5 in my last fiver with no issues.

As far as the wiring, it was exactly the same, and the standard house wiring does not change for the capacity of the generator.

All the standard protection features will work as required with the higher capacity generator.

The advantage of having the higher capacity is the ability to run more at one time without the overload of the genset (CB) you can experience with the lower capacity genset.

Lower capacity gensets are installed in most trailers and coaches for the cost factor, not the wiring system capacity.
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:21 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70gsconvt View Post
Unfortunately nothing on my breaker panel is marked. I guess I'll have to figure that out sooner or later anyways. I'll see what that 20 amp breaker is controling. I'm pretty sure the microwave is on the same buss as the rear a/c, so that could be an issue right there.
The only breakers in my panel that were marked were the two AC's. I used a non contact circuit tester, turned all breakers off, turned on one at a time and checked every plug for power. Once I identified everything on that breaker I turned it off and continued with the next breaker, making new labels along the way. There was a 20 amp circuit I could not find anything it fed. Finally found it under the kitchen sink and behind the water heater, unused terminated wires in a 4 X 4 box.
BTW, in my breaker panel space #1 & 2 is the 50 amp main, #3 & 4 are for the AC's. To find which one is for either AC, turn only the fan on either AC and trip the breaker until the fan turns off.
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:34 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek View Post
The 20A circuit BYPASSES the CB panel in the RV because it's not used by the rest of the RV. Only by the rear AC. So you can't find a breaker for it in the RVs CB panel because there isn't one. It's on the genset, as you already told us.
Maybe yours but not mine and probably not the OP's. Mine had the converter/charger on the same circuit as the rear AC. Probably wasn't a problem with the original converter, but the PO installed Progressive 60 amp converter. In bulk and boost mode it draws 14 amp.
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Old 07-24-2015, 11:41 AM   #14
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Yeah, I found the electrical box behind the water heater that's connected to nothing. Figure that's for a gas/electric heater. Won't be using that ever. When I get back home soon I'll start figuring things out. Thanks guys.
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