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Old 01-13-2014, 10:31 AM   #15
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If you had 10gals of propane pumped into the tank, there is no "air" in the tank. Any air in the tank would have been pushed out by the propane coming in and boiling.
Why you can't smell it, I have no idea, but more than likely you have a bad regulator, which is a quick and easy fix. The fact that when you crack the vent on the tank, pressure is being released, but when you turn a burner on, it's not being released tells you that something is clogged in between.

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Yes when I open the vent valve I just get air, no oder. I loosen the nut from the tank to the reg and still get air, no oder. At the stove I get notnig, no soud. The tank had been empty and he was running from external tanks through another reg. When I put propane in the tank I only put in 10 gal and got no vent gas which was open.
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:58 PM   #16
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He has a much longer thread in another forum... The consensus there is he needs professional help.

There are two or 3 possible issues.

Did not connect properly

PROPANE detector turned off and thus safety valve off

Other.. A photo of the valves has been requested. this would help, but he's not posted one.
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:06 AM   #17
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Thanks for the heads up.

You can lead a horse to water, but everyone knows what a wet horse smells like.

Jim
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:27 AM   #18
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On my gas grill the regulator has a safety feature. If the regulator does not detect back pressure when the propane tank is opened it will shut down and requires a couple of minutes to reset with the tank turned off. Does the valve on the MH behave the same way?
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:43 AM   #19
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On my gas grill the regulator has a safety feature. If the regulator does not detect back pressure when the propane tank is opened it will shut down and requires a couple of minutes to reset with the tank turned off. Does the valve on the MH behave the same way?
LP gas regulators will shut down if they detect no back pressure, but closing off all the appliances, shutting off the valve at the tank, and turning on again will allow the regulator to reset. It should release enough gas into the lines to create enough pressure to prevent shut off again UNLESS there is a leak in the system that prevents pressure build up. We're talking about very low pressure here, not like in an air system or even water system, 0.04 lbs or less.
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Old 01-14-2014, 08:35 PM   #20
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I have it working now. From your suggestions I was able to find a switch that is a Sp/DT and replace it. The original was a single pull double through that also had a light built in. I found the switch bad and replaced. Once done it started working fine. Not sure what you call the switch but was told there would be one in line and so it was. It was burried undr the sink area. NOt sure why it had a light involved but possibly something prior owner did. Thanks again for all the help.
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Old 01-14-2014, 09:00 PM   #21
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I have it working now. From your suggestions I was able to find a switch that is a Sp/DT and replace it. The original was a single pull double through that also had a light built in. I found the switch bad and replaced. Once done it started working fine. Not sure what you call the switch but was told there would be one in line and so it was. It was burried undr the sink area. NOt sure why it had a light involved but possibly something prior owner did. Thanks again for all the help.
Bruce
I'm glad you found the problem and reported back. I'm curious, is the switch you replaced attached to the LP detector or in place of an LP detector?
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Old 01-14-2014, 09:09 PM   #22
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Quote:
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I have it working now. From your suggestions I was able to find a switch that is a Sp/DT and replace it. The original was a single pull double through that also had a light built in. I found the switch bad and replaced. Once done it started working fine. Not sure what you call the switch but was told there would be one in line and so it was. It was burried undr the sink area. NOt sure why it had a light involved but possibly something prior owner did. Thanks again for all the help.
Bruce
So Bruce, what exactly does this switch do relative to delivering LPG to the coach?

I know some coach LPG systems have an automatic safety switch and solenoid that will stop the flow of LPG but there is no manual switch involved.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 01-14-2014, 09:35 PM   #23
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The location is odd. As I understand my LP system, my regulator is electronic.
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I haven't really studied it - cause I don't pump propane - and as Richard said - messing with gas is best left to those who know it best. But... when I asked a service center about installing an Extend A Stay, I was told that it was either difficult to do if it could be done at all, or not advisable to do - and I have asked one other center and gotten similar response.

I'm still trying to find someone that can provide a better answer on the Extend A Stay - but I know this - if that switch is off, there is no propane to the coach. The location of my switch makes more sense - but it could be an in coach switch with the same purpose - added by a pervious owner??
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Old 01-14-2014, 10:34 PM   #24
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That might control an electric shut off, but I've not heard of an electric regulator. One and two stage regulators work from a spring and diaphragm, not electricity. There's no mention of a shut off switch in the 2008 Bounder Diesel manual:

http://fleetwoodrv.com/partsandservi...DER_DIESEL.pdf

The Extend A Stay is connected directly into the line between the on board tank and the pressure regulator. The hose connected to it can be used to run off an external, portable LP tank OR the hose can be connected to a grill or other LP device THAT HAS IT'S OWN REGULATOR. http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&redirect=true

Extend A Flow is a T fitting that is added AFTER the regulator and only provides lower pressure LP gas. It can be connected to lanterns, grills, heaters, campfires that don't have a pressure regulator built in. It CAN'T be hooked up to a portable LP tank, it would put high pressure gas into your RV and with the back flow valve in the regulator it can't be used to fill on board tank.

They can be installed by owner with proper sealing tape and care in reading instructions. There are You Tube videos on how to install each of them.

They both have special connectors to help prevent hook-up of incorrect devices, but remember anytime you think you've got a foolproof system, God makes a better fool.
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:21 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181
That might control an electric shut off, but I've not heard of an electric regulator. One and two stage regulators work from a spring and diaphragm, not electricity. There's no mention of a shut off switch in the 2008 Bounder Diesel manual:

http://fleetwoodrv.com/partsandservi...DER_DIESEL.pdf
On Edit - wow - you had a burst of energy!!
I'm not going to edit the below - as it mostly applies - and I'm not a big enough fool to DIY this. Am covered with 2 #20 tanks and a 4.5 for grills and lanterns and was just side barring on the OPs switch.

Yea - I know, right! And yet there it is - emergency shutoff - shutting off LP before the regulator - or the regulator - or after it or....??? But no gas will go to the coach if it's off.

Since I knew a switch could keep gas from my coach - I was positing that it is not unheard of that a switch such as the OPs could go bad and keep gas from getting to the coach until remedied. Are you saying that's not possible - not mentioned in my coach manual so it isn't really there - or just that it doesn't control the regulator? :-) and which I admitted some confusion from the start.

It seems odd to not be able to get two previously thought competent service techs at two different centers to tell me why they won't or can't add what many others have - an Extend A Stay. As I recall - they did not like the idea of doing any gas work in vicinity of an electric device / connection but that wasn't their primary "explanation". It's been a while and some things I forget absent any real explaimation.

I have been through the paperwork - and have the electrical and plumbing diagrams, but did not dig so deep as to uncover the secret if it's there, But it did not seem apparent - appears stock - and will keep LP from getting to the coach. Perhaps the shutoff is in line where an Extend A Stay would normally install.

Bottom line - a switch can keep LP from getting to the coach - but installing it under the sink with or without a light seems an odd placement.

Guess I will call Fleetwood one day and see what they say. I do know this - there is plenty of information lacking in the manuals and brochures on the Wonders of Bonita Bounder and the FW Owners Services never lets me down.

Thanks - Steve
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:17 PM   #26
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Wanted to thank you again for pointing me in the right direction to allow Gas to enter M/H. I will try and answer bflin181 as to the switch I replaced. There is an LP gage readout on the kitchen sink and on the dash which did read in the green even though I had no gas in Home at furnace/H2O heater/nor stove. I found a round hole under stove top unit that looked like a gage mount but nothing there. I was able to find the switch, wires connected under stove top area with wires all in place except the ground. It also has a green light on the switch. I reconnected the ground but to no avail. I then checked out the switch winch is a single pull double through and found one side was making no connection. It is a common switch so I purchased a new switch and replaced the wires as before. As soon as switch was working I could here the H2) heater come on. I can only assume that there must be a solenoid on the tank that the switch operates to shut off tank. I have not crawled under unit as this is Oregon in January and I am not on slab.
I had also taken the unit to propane distributer and he found no problem with filling, and past the tank he no idea of what went on downstream. Pockets were not deep enough to go to MH repair shop and did not feel I was risking life by personal further inspection.
Again that you all for the insight you gave.

Bruce
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:54 AM   #27
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Question (Designed as a warning) How did you determine the switch was SPDT?

Assumption: It had 3 leads so you assumed SPDT

Fact: since it had a light it is an SPST with light, the 3rd lead is ground for the lamp.
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Old 01-17-2014, 11:30 PM   #28
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5 lead switch

77 years old
degree in eng
have seen a few switches
no assumption
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