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Old 10-12-2010, 04:49 PM   #15
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Yes, it can be done but it will look like Cousin Eddie's motorhome in the movie Christmas Vacation. Save up some money and have it done professionally. Brushes and rollers are for houses and fences, not vehicles.

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Old 10-12-2010, 09:29 PM   #16
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I once painted the whole topside of my 45' Ketch rigged sailboat with rollers and brushes. What I painted was fiberglass like most motor homes. It came out great. I did do a lot of prep work and bought the best paint I could find. Yacht paint should work well on a fiberglass motor home too. So yes marine paint should work well. I enjoyed doing it.

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Old 10-13-2010, 08:10 AM   #17
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The problem with brush painting is that automotive paint is designed to be sprayed.. It tends to be fast drying.. HOWEVER if you specify that you wish to brush it on they can mix it differently.

Basically I would say "Yes you can do it BUT!!!!" The But is do not expect it to look as good as spray on... brush strokes do not look good on a car or motor home.

IF you want.. I can take a few pictures and E-mail you.. I have a small area that was brush painted (Touch up painting)
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Old 10-13-2010, 03:35 PM   #18
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For all you naysayers, please do an internet search on "Roll and Tip" painting. It was originally developed for painting fiberglass boats but works just as well on fiberglass RVs. The trick is the paint that is used is designed to be rolled and brushed and then smooth out nice and glossy and I think the results speak for themselves.

Here is a YouTube video to get you started:

P.S. I'm not pushing this paint distributor, just showing what can be accomplished with this method.
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Old 10-14-2010, 09:41 PM   #19
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It can be painted by brush and look if you work at it. Prep time will be longer than what it will take to do the actual painting. You probably need to seal the surface where the stripes were to keep that area from bleeding through/lookong different than the new paint. I'd make sure you use drop cloths to keep paint off the parking lot surface.

Good luck
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Old 10-14-2010, 10:30 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
The problem with brush painting is that automotive paint is designed to be sprayed...
The folks who are brush painting are NOT using automotive paint. They are using paint like "Rustoleum" and (in my case) Ace Hardware "Rust Stop". I have used Rustoelum in a Wagner electric spray rig to paint my Apache pop-up. Took two coats and I had to thin the paint down to spray it.

Most of the folks who are doing roll-on/brush paint jobs are thinning down the Rustoleum or Rust Stop gloss paint 50/50 with mineral spirits (paint thinner is 100% mineral spirits) but will require multiple coats (three or four). This results in a thin paint that will self-level the brush/roller marks. As for the sanding between coats.. the skoolie folks don't tend to do that. When you are talking 40 ft vehicles, that's a lot of sanding. Unless you want a mirror finish high gloss paint job, then you do not need to do all that. For a vintage RV, you can get a pretty decent paint job just with a foam roller and a good paint brush.

Here is a link to a forum where you can ask the folks who have done it not the folks who would fall over if someone suggested they paint their RV's with a brush/roller! Rolled On - Affordable Paintjobs

This is the site I had originally found when I first learned about doing something like this Rickwrench, Alfa GTV, Falcon Squire, Corvair

I think these people are into buffing way too much but then their vehicles are about 1/4 the size of our skoolie.
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Old 10-15-2010, 05:15 AM   #21
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Thank you for the great links! The great thing about this technique (other than the low cost) is that I can do it gradually when time off and weather permit. Heading to Florida to spend Christmas with my Mother, would love to have it done by then. Still working on prep at this point but will post pics as I complete each section. Thank goodness my class C is only 23 feet long. If only I could control the weather on my days off work.
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:31 AM   #22
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A few years back I wanted to repaint the aluminum siding on our stick house at a our Florida home base. Was worried about brush marks on such on a flat smooth surface, so researched paints I could brush on and still get a smooth finish. Ended up using Dulux, from ICI Paints (Glidden parent) and it flowed out beautifully. Both the flat and the semi-gloss trim brushed easily and needed no special technique to avoid brush marks. Dulux coast about $40/gal at the time.
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Old 10-15-2010, 11:04 AM   #23
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I had a 1977 Vogue motorhome in the late 1980's. The bottom panel on both sides had paint peeling did not look very good. I sanded it to get rid of the peeling paint, cleaned it off, and then sprayed it with aerosol cans of paint from home depot or other hardware ware store. I used a similar same bronze color as the original color. It actually it looked pretty good - much better than with the peeling paint.
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Old 10-15-2010, 07:00 PM   #24
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The Interlux video showed exactly how I painted my fiberglass boat. I used Interlux paint. I was very shinny and looked good after I did it. It should work great on a fiberglass motor home. As I said in my previous post I used both roller and brush and did a little bit at a time. I did two coats and sanded in between.
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Old 10-16-2010, 01:39 AM   #25
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Why can't you spray?

I have a "detail gun" that holds only a couple ounces of paint, requires very little air and has almost zero overspray.

A tiny compressor can be used so it can be placed inside in a box to keep it quiet.

The paint is thinned as it is used, I use syrenge to draw in the paint and thinner, easy to measure via markson the unit and this also makes for clean cans since the paint is not poured.

The paint path is short, so cleanup is fast, I have a can of used thinner that I use to clean the gun, I pass it through a coffee filter to remove the solids.

Detail gun at Harbor Freight is less than $10.00, compressors about $40 or so as a tiny one is all that is needed.

It sprays a small pattern if not thinned too much, almost no overspray, if thinned more then wider pattern and more overspray.

I am the worst operator of spray cans and Binks type guns, but my work with this is great, it sprays so fine that is takes a few passes to cover, so it does not run as rapidly as with a can, unless you thin too much.

But the preperation is still most important.

Be sure to clean the surface with whatever is use to thin the paint, so if oil based clean with thinner, water based rinse well.
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Old 10-16-2010, 07:17 AM   #26
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I bought a used graco spray paint system. New auto paint is easier to spray. Here is a pic of my hurricane. The hardest part was removing the decals. Not sure how to post pics of my paint job.
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Old 10-16-2010, 05:02 PM   #27
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You're not joking about prep time. I spent the entire day sanding off stripes and repairing a few cracks in the fiberglass. The previous owner must have had stock in a caulk company. Don't know what color it was when he put it on but I took a gallon of black goo off of every possible crevis. Not sure what to clean the surface with before painting. Will mineral spirits work? It's getting cold here in NY, just let the weather cooperate.
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Old 10-16-2010, 06:21 PM   #28
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Preparation of the surface is 80% of the work in any paint job. Now there are some paints that are self leveling for brush or roller work, but you have to get the right paint.

You could also invest in one of the smaller residential type airless sprayers and do a pretty good job spraying and it would be a lot faster.


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