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Old 12-14-2014, 04:39 PM   #1
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Carpet support

Has anyone replaced the plastic sheeting that supports the carpet over top of the groove where the slideout floor and main floor meet. Would like to try something a bit stronger than what Winnebago supplied with the coach if possible. Any help would be appreciated.
Brent
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Old 12-14-2014, 07:31 PM   #2
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Has anyone replaced the plastic sheeting that supports the carpet over top of the groove where the slideout floor and main floor meet. Would like to try something a bit stronger than what Winnebago supplied with the coach if possible. Any help would be appreciated.
Brent
Is yours split yet? Ours is a mess, especially at the dining table where the chair legs hit the space that that vinyl strip is supposed to support. When walking the isle with the coach closed you can't help but step on it and, over time, the flexing breaks it.

I am planing on trying to use a luan panel or some sort of fiber board under it when we are parked and store when we travel.

I, too, am interested in finding a better solution. Many other coaches don't have that gap by design.

Rick Y
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Old 12-14-2014, 07:42 PM   #3
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Yes, ours is split by the table and chairs and also in the bedroom in front of the closet. Thought about trying Lexan but fear it would be too stiff and not let the carpet lay float against the tile. Looks like it will be a bit of work removing the old stuff as well.
Brent
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:31 AM   #4
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Yes, ours is split by the table and chairs and also in the bedroom in front of the closet. Thought about trying Lexan but fear it would be too stiff and not let the carpet lay float against the tile. Looks like it will be a bit of work removing the old stuff as well.
Brent
It is gooed to the carpet securely. I am thinking it may be okay to leave it in place and just add whatever to it. We are in bad weather at the moment and not convenient to HD or Lowe's to get what I am considering. Maybe next month after we relocate. With the old stuff left in place the panel I am thinking of using my survive longer. At least I'm not the only one trying to solve this problem.

Rick Y
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:27 AM   #5
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A piece of 3/16 or 1/8" aluminum plate would probably do it. Screw it to the top of the slide floor and let it project out as much as needed. Maybe put an aluminum angle under at the edge for additional support. The carpet on top is likely enough to hide the slight bulge of the plate and screws, but you could recess it a bit if desired.
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Old 12-16-2014, 07:46 AM   #6
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Thanks for the tip Gary, aluminum is definitely an option but I'm just a bit concerned that if a chair was sat on overtop of the trough that it might bend. Trying to find a place in Phoenix that would sell some sort of strong pliable plastic or silicone tripe of sheet.
Brent
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Old 12-16-2014, 08:42 AM   #7
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A piece of 3/16 or 1/8" aluminum plate would probably do it. Screw it to the top of the slide floor and let it project out as much as needed. Maybe put an aluminum angle under at the edge for additional support. The carpet on top is likely enough to hide the slight bulge of the plate and screws, but you could recess it a bit if desired.
A permanent plate of that sort is probably not a good idea. The isle is very narrow when the rig is closed for travel. Ankles would suffer and the plate would most likely bend. No way to avoid stepping on it. We need a mobile stiffener. (And Winnebago needs a better system on the floor.)

Keep on thinking. I love it. Thanks.

Rick Y
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Old 12-16-2014, 11:11 AM   #8
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They make thin rubber belting just leave it short and the carpet should droop enough to lay flat.
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Old 12-16-2014, 11:29 AM   #9
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My coach (different brand) has a fairly rigid synthetic plate that protrudes about 5" from the edge of the flush-floor slide. The carpet flap sticks out an additional 2-3".

I don't see how you can have it both ways - if the extension is strong enough to support a chair leg or somebody standing on it, it's going to be fairly rigid and stick into the aisle when closed. Make it narrow enough to barely cover the gap when open to minimize the intrusion and use something strong enough to do the job.

If you don't like metal, you can get plastic (e.g. nylon or other polymer) sheet stock. Nylon 66 is one possibility. Here are some sources for plastic sheet products:
Shop for Plastic Sheets, Film, and Flat Stock and other Plastics at Zoro
Plastic Sheets, Film and Flat Stock - Plastics - Grainger Industrial Supply

Good luck with whatever material you choose.
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Old 12-18-2014, 01:57 PM   #10
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Well I removed the plastic sheeting from the floor and carpet today and replaced with .093 thick Lexan the entire length of our full wall slide, (28'). Total time was 90 minutes and total cost was $74. Couldn't be happier with the outcome. Now I can walk anywhere or sit in a chair anywhere without fear of breaking the carpet support. The carpet lays flat and you can't see or feel the difference from the factory supplied material. The Lexan is incredibly strong and flexible enough to bend a complete 180 degrees without cracking etc.
Brent
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:53 AM   #11
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Well I removed the plastic sheeting from the floor and carpet today and replaced with .093 thick Lexan the entire length of our full wall slide, (28'). Total time was 90 minutes and total cost was $74. Couldn't be happier with the outcome. Now I can walk anywhere or sit in a chair anywhere without fear of breaking the carpet support. The carpet lays flat and you can't see or feel the difference from the factory supplied material. The Lexan is incredibly strong and flexible enough to bend a complete 180 degrees without cracking etc.
Brent
Brent, where did you get the Lexan and did you have to cut it to width? That is not bad time for the job.
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Old 12-20-2014, 08:30 AM   #12
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I bought it at Lowes and they cut it at no cost to 6" x 30" pieces. I was a bit worried about having a few more joins but the shorter pieces are WAY easier to deal with keeping straight while dealing with the adhesive. In the end you can't tell where the joins are so I recommend using approx. 30" pieces. I had to cut 3 small pieces, two 5" pieces for the ends and one 4" piece to go under doorframe mid coach, a hacksaw worked nicely for this. Ate dinner at the table last night and didn't worry a bit where the chair legs sat Very happy with the end product but more importantly the wife is happy - Happy wife, happy life!
Brent
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Old 12-21-2014, 10:28 AM   #13
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I bought it at Lowes and they cut it at no cost to 6" x 30" pieces. I was a bit worried about having a few more joins but the shorter pieces are WAY easier to deal with keeping straight while dealing with the adhesive. In the end you can't tell where the joins are so I recommend using approx. 30" pieces. I had to cut 3 small pieces, two 5" pieces for the ends and one 4" piece to go under doorframe mid coach, a hacksaw worked nicely for this. Ate dinner at the table last night and didn't worry a bit where the chair legs sat Very happy with the end product but more importantly the wife is happy - Happy wife, happy life!
Brent
Thanks, Brent. Great input. We are with the kids for Christmas in WA, but I will check out Lowe's when I get back to OR. We will only have a few days and then we are heading to CA so I will have to work fast.

If this stuff needs a hacksaw to cut it and the vinyl Jesse used needs a utility knife, I think I'll opt for the tougher stuff. No offense Jesse.

I'll let you know how things go. My area to do is only 15' if I recall. Should be a little easier.

Hope you all have a great Christmas! Now, if our politically correct folks could only remember the reason for the season. Christmas would not be if Jesus had not been born. And then there is "the rest of the story".

Rick Y
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