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Old 10-15-2016, 07:00 AM   #1
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Location: Seneca South Carolina
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Cat 3208 T stalls

I purchased a 1987 Executive coach with a Cat 3208T engine and about 117K miles.
On the drive home after purchase, it ran perfect for about 250 miles, then began to stall at stops. I was able to restart and then kept it going by holding the brake with my left foot, and feather the throttle with my right.
Once moving, it runs great.
Once home I began to investigate the cause. Found multiple issues. Rust in the tank. A leaky Water/Fuel separator. Added a boost pump to help with bleeding, but it still stalls and hard to get re-started.
On my first attempt to clean the tank, I did not get all of thee water out of the tank, so got a slug of water in the system.
New filters etc and tank is clean, but may still have some residue in the pump.
Now it also can lose power while driving at below around 30mph.
I am going to try draining the injection pump more throughly today, but if that does not cure it, the only other thing I can think to do is send the injection pump out for rebuild.
How does a person know when the injection pump should be rebuilt?
Any other suggestions appreciated.
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Old 10-15-2016, 11:52 AM   #2
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FYI I've had a 3208T in a previous coach so this is firsthand experience..

If it ran fine for 250 miles then started developing issues I doubt it's the injector pump. I would look for three things:
1- check in the "valley" of the engine (under the injector pump) and see if diesel is pooling there..if so the throttle rod shaft seal could be leaking and letting air get sucked into the system.
2-check for more fuel filters..good chance there is a secondary filter somewhere - From CAT there is one mounted to the engine with a hand primer pump which is known to leak after 30 yrs or so! (introducing air) - may have not been installed or removed by PO..but check for additional filters.
3- If you can,add some clear line to the return line so you can look at the fuel returning...really sounds like you still have a fuel quality problem or a place where air is getting sucked in.
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Old 10-15-2016, 02:22 PM   #3
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You did well installing a electric pusher pump. I'd recommend you drain pump as well as the supply lines to the pump. There is a straight thread plug in the middle bottom of the rear casting for that purpose. After supply plumbing is drained, filling new filters, I assume you have two, with ATF and run the electric pump. There is a plug identical to the lower one @ the top middle of the pump, loosen that to let air escape, tighten when fuel starts to flow out, should fire up. If hard starting is encountered loosen 3 or 4 injection lines by the valve cover and run the electric pump again, bubbles will indicate trapped air, fuel flowing with out bubbles tighten flare nut and try starting, foot on the floor. A check valve down stream of the pusher pump is a good option, diesel fuel systems are much closer to hydraulic brakes than gasser/carb engines. Gasser knowledge doesn't do much good fixing on a diesel.
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