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Old 10-10-2012, 10:24 AM   #15
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I go most anywhere.... Back when the RV was new I went to Sears and got a 4 gallon pancake type air compressor (120 volt) that can do 150-160 PSI (Label says 150 gauge says 160).. I think Harbor Freight has one too.

Otherwise, you go to a truck stop.. their compressors also tend to hit that range.

But my recommendation is the Sears 150 PSI tank job.. So useful for so many things.. I used to winterize using it (Set regulator to 50 PSI) I now winterize by a different method (Drive South).
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:54 AM   #16
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If you have air brakes you have a fitting, most likely in the front of the coach under the "hood." It is used for tow trucks to hook up their air system to your coach.

I use that fitting with a 50' air hose to air my tires to 110 psi. Since the compressor pumps the system up to 125 psi, it should inflate your tires.

If you don't have air brakes, well, SOL cause you will have to find a source.

Happy trails.
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:12 PM   #17
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To expand on Waynes comments...

If u have air brakes, you have 2 fittings.
They will be up front, under the gennie access panel.

One is male, that one is for tow trucks, it goes straight to the parking brakes, and attaching an air hose (with pressure) herer will release your parking brake, so your coach can be towed.

The second is female. That is the one to use when u need yoiur coaches system to supply utility air pressure to fill your tires or whatever.
I've done this, and found it to be very slow. That might jhave been due to the 3 inch tear in the sidewall of the tire i was trying to fill.

Also agree with the others on pressure. I run 105 in front and 95 in back, with a 33k lb coach.... And i am probably a lil over where i could be.
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:26 PM   #18
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I picked up one of the "pan-cake" styles at Home Depot that goes to 150 PSIG, so the 120 psig I need for the trailer tires is OK.
6- Gal. 150 PSI Oil-Free Pancake Compressor-C2002 at The Home Depot

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Old 01-06-2013, 12:14 PM   #19
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Just purchased this 150psi/6gal/1.5 gal pancake air compressor from Harbor freight. On sale $119 plus paid the $20 for the 2 year no questions asked/replacement warranty.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-horse...sor-67696.html

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Air delivery: 2.5 SCFM @ 90 PSI, 3.4 SCFM @ 40 PSI

Pumps up 4 times faster than there smaller 1/3 hp unit at 100psi, 150psi takes a bit more, oh and it does not leak down...they do not recommend it on impack tools but will easily take off lug nuts because of the high psi...just make sure you get the 3/8" or bigger air line! I also upgraded to a better short NPT fitting at the compressor from our local auto parts store. KC
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dons2346 View Post
First thing is I question the need for 125 on the front axle. 125 is a serious amount of pressure and I would question that. I would also question the need for 120 in the rear.

Depends on the tire. My G rated trailer tires are rated at 125 psig. I do not carry that much as the weight does not call for the pressure to be at max ratings.

Weigh your coach and set the tire pressures according to the actual weights with about a 5 psig cushion...not to exceed side wall pressure rating.

Ken
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:32 PM   #21
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I gather you don't have air brakes
Even if he does have air brakes you can't really get 120 psi out of the air system auxiliary outlet as the compressor is regulated to cut in at 90 psi and cut OUT at 120.

I carry a Cable and Porter small compressor that can make 150 psi, and it is fully pressurized in about 2 minutes. Bit heavy but it really does the job, plus it is strong enough to push some air tools.

I agree that you should weigh the coach, that is weigh each side of each axle, and go to the tire manufacturer web site and find their inflation guide and work out what you need, then compare the weights to the chassis manufacturer limits and make sure you are on side with them. It is a small hassle but you only need to do it once, and make sure the coach is loaded. You really do need to weigh each side - all mine are different left to right but the drive axle is over 1,500 lbs heavier on the right.

I run heavy, and I tend to keep my tires a little hard, and I run 315s on the front - I weigh 7,700 lbs on the heavier side (both sides are inflated to the higher of the two required pressures). Michelin calls for 115 psi at that weight with that tire, and I run 120. On the rear I tip in on the heavy side of the drive axle at 9,900 lbs, and the guide calls for 80 psi (I run 295s on the rear). I keep my rears (including the tags that only need 75 psi) at 90 psi.
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:54 PM   #22
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Agree with others, air pressure sounds high. Pressures shown on the side of tires are max, they may or may not be the pressure required for the weight on each axel.

Weigh the corners individually, if you cannot get corner weights get axel weights. Apply these values to the weight/pressure charts from your tire manufacturer.

My onboard compressor cuts in at 90 and cuts out at 128 to 132 depending on which gauge you believe.

I have found that my onboard compressor is as quick or quicker when counting set up time to any of my other compressors. THe onboard compressor has more volume than my small 150 psi pancake compressors. The best part is all I need to cary is the hose, air chuck and an in line bleeder valve.

See post 26 in this thread What Have You Done To Your Motorhome?

With 11,600 pounds front axel and 19,800 rear axel I run 110 front and 95 rear.
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:56 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by distaff View Post
Even if he does have air brakes you can't really get 120 psi out of the air system auxiliary outlet as the compressor is regulated to cut in at 90 psi and cut OUT at 120.
My coach cuts out between 128 and 132 so he may be able to use the onboard compressor.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:07 PM   #24
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I should have added to post 22 that my coach and several others I have seen use an Automotive style air fitting vs. the standard industrial type air fitting. Lowes carries both types.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:10 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdennislee View Post
I should have added to post 22 that my coach and several others I have seen use an Automotive style air fitting vs. the standard industrial type air fitting. Lowes carries both types.
I should probably put a gauge on the outlet and see what it actually puts out. Could save some weight and hassles (none of the other dash gauges are correct, why should I believe that one?). It is easy enough to drop the pressure enough to make the compressor kick in, of course, you have to run the diesel.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:52 PM   #26
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I agree with those that think your tire pressures are too high. Weigh the coach and then look up the correct pressures on tire manufacturer's website. Here's how to inflate tires with onboard compressor:

HOW TO: Inflate High Pressure RV Tires - YouTube
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:54 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdennislee View Post
Agree with others, air pressure sounds high. Pressures shown on the side of tires are max, they may or may not be the pressure required for the weight on each axel.

Weigh the corners individually, if you cannot get corner weights get axel weights. Apply these values to the weight/pressure charts from your tire manufacturer.

My onboard compressor cuts in at 90 and cuts out at 128 to 132 depending on which gauge you believe.

I have found that my onboard compressor is as quick or quicker when counting set up time to any of my other compressors. THe onboard compressor has more volume than my small 150 psi pancake compressors. The best part is all I need to cary is the hose, air chuck and an in line bleeder valve.

See post 26 in this thread What Have You Done To Your Motorhome?

With 11,600 pounds front axel and 19,800 rear axel I run 110 front and 95 rear.
I made the attachment shown in the video and love it! I modified the procedure a little bit though. To bleed down the air pressure in order to start the compressor I just release the air chuck part way from the quick disconnect, letting the air spill out until the compressor starts. Much easier than pumping the brakes. I run 110 lbs in my front tires and 100 lbs in the rear duallys. Works for me!
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:47 PM   #28
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I love the valve stem caps that don't require removing the cap, and the chuck that stays attached. All the so-called locking chucks I've seen have been trash - they won't actually lock on, they just sort of hang on and leak!

Anyone know what brand or type they are?

Having said that, I think I'll still haul my compressor around because my fronts are filled to 120 PSI (however I will put a pressure gauge on the coach air to see).
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