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Old 06-24-2014, 07:09 AM   #1
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CAUSES of LOW Voltage at the Hydraulic Pump system

Our Equalizer system stopped working all at once (pump operates both jacks and slides; single system pump). The "all jacks are down" lights were ON and the All Retract button blinked...but nothing happened. We replaced pump motor and solenoid.

Upon testing, the volt-meter registered dropping voltage at the motor while jacks were being retracted; I stopped the system at 10.34V. (All four batteries have been load tested and all are fine.) Starting the engine allowed voltage to stay in the upper 11s and the circuit completed retraction.

So, WHAT is normal voltage during jacks or slides operations? The Equalizer tech guru suggested that we install a beefier cable to the motor; one from the genset that sits next to the pump compartment, instead of a 22' run from battery compartment.
We can (and will) do that, but...

Since motor is new, is it possible that something else might cause such a draw? Pump? Jacks? Slides?

Thanks from a newbie!
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:43 AM   #2
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A voltage test is questionable for an electrical system under load .
Prefer to use a clamp type amp gauge around the power cable.
That being said, because the system worked , then developed a problem, I would tend to fault connections ( power or ground) rather than the cable.
I traced an intermittent operation of my HWH system to a corroded connection in a " waterproof " in-line 40amp fuse holder.
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:21 PM   #3
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Not sure if this is your issue, but my auto leveling system once stop working and all the lights were blinking. I found on line a sequence of buttons that had to be pushed in order to reset the the electronics. My auto leveling system also always show low voltage even though my coach batteries are fully charged. I have to run the engine to operate the leveling system.
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:24 PM   #4
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Like RVluvin, we must have the engine running to work our levellers and slide outs.
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Old 06-24-2014, 01:02 PM   #5
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Same here, When I arive at my camp site I have to keep engine running while deploying jacks & slides.
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Old 06-25-2014, 07:27 AM   #6
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Thanks, guys. As a newbie, my following the written instructions seems to have got me into trouble...and from now on, I'll follow your instructions and keep the engine running.

MH is at the shop, where they can do the amp test and figure out the keypad lights and lazy slide.
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Old 06-25-2014, 08:55 PM   #7
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Definatly want the ground checked were it attaches to the frame. A bad ground wIll cause you all kind of unusual problems if it is not good. Take it apart and clean them well....
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:03 PM   #8
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If its that 40 amp fuse corroded in fuse holder use a 40 amp auto reset relay and get rid of fuse.
May have to extend wiring to mount near pump but will have less problems in future.
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Old 06-27-2014, 07:59 AM   #9
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Lucky for us, there isn't a spec of corrosion on the wiring (Missouri MH), but your idea is a good one. I like reset relays over spade fuses.
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by "007" View Post
If its that 40 amp fuse corroded in fuse holder use a 40 amp auto reset relay and get rid of fuse.
May have to extend wiring to mount near pump but will have less problems in future.
Already done "007" this is what the problem looked like , and still worked on occasion. Fuse was not blown.
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:33 PM   #11
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UPDATE:

The shop didn't have alot of luck finding the cause, and when I picked it up for the weekend, they suggested that the keypad/controller was defective. While definitely a possibility, I wasn't comfortable with erratic voltages. If something electrical dies, then it dies completely and doesn't come back to life from test to test...IMO, anyway.

Wiring harness was stretched tight to the keypad, making testing tough, so I routed it below the console in order to have access. In so doing, I noticed that the Power feed was loose. Darned if the circuit board just needed to be re-soldered in order to allow power to get to it all the time.

Powered everything up and jacks work fine. Maybe I dodged a bullet there
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
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UPDATE:

, I wasn't comfortable with erratic voltages. If something electrical dies, then it dies completely and doesn't come back to life from test to test...IMO, anyway.

I spent 34 years working at a Chrysler dealership, erratic electrical issues were the bane of my life, stuff that would only occur once or twice a month were common complains, cold/heat& humidity can change , if and when, a problem occurs with electrical and electronic components.
When tracking an electrical issue I always say" I'd rather be lucky than good." With your problem you were lucky to be in the right place looking at the right component.
JMHO:I'd rather be working on a completely dead system than one that wasn't working yesterday , but is OK this morning.
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