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Old 05-16-2009, 08:09 PM   #29
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Gary, I looked at the Harbor Freight website. There are 2 - 3/4" torque wrenches. The one for $72 indicates that it goes to 300ft lbs. I'm assuming that you bought the one for $137 that goes to 600ft ponds?

I've looked at the Harbor Frieight impact wrench. The ones large enough to do the job all appear to use a high CFM. Did you have any problems running yours enough to break the bolts loose? The tire shop that put mine on used a 1" impact gun. I figured that I'd have enough power to break the nuts loose.
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Old 05-16-2009, 08:49 PM   #30
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Gary, I looked at the Harbor Freight website. There are 2 - 3/4" torque wrenches. The one for $72 indicates that it goes to 300ft lbs. I'm assuming that you bought the one for $137 that goes to 600ft ponds?

I've looked at the Harbor Frieight impact wrench. The ones large enough to do the job all appear to use a high CFM. Did you have any problems running yours enough to break the bolts loose? The tire shop that put mine on used a 1" impact gun. I figured that I'd have enough power to break the nuts loose.
i am using the hf 600 ft# 42 inch long torque wrench. it works well. i am not using an impact wrench to tighten or loosen the lug nuts. once broken loose, the nuts run off and on easily by hand. if i were using an impact wrench, it would be necessary to use a 33mm 3/4 drive socket. the 1 5/16 socket i am using does not fit tight enough to use an impact wrench. i also have a 1/2" drive electric impact wrench, i think about 100 ft#, but haven't used it on the lug nuts yet. imho the high torque impact wrenches use too much air for my small 3/4 hp air compressor.
for safety, i would not want to put 475 ft# of torque on lug nuts using an adapter 1/2" to 3/4". that is a LOT of torque.
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Old 05-16-2009, 09:16 PM   #31
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So, Dan, what do you use to break the nuts loose? I figured that, at a mininum, it would take at least as long of a bar with the same setup (extension, jackstand as a folcrum) as the torque wrench needs to do that without an impact gun. I have a neat little impact gun that will go up to 400 ft.lbs but that isn't going to get the job on our RV. The problem is that is that my impact gun is a pistol grip without a side handle and, as was already pointed out in an earlier post, it could break your wrist if you aren't careful. When working on passenger vehicles, I use an impact wrench to put the nuts on but it is set to less than the final torque spec and I can easily finish the job with my torque wrench. I was kind of hoping for a similar setup if I had to tackle the RV.
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Old 05-17-2009, 04:11 AM   #32
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So, Dan, what do you use to break the nuts loose? I figured that, at a mininum, it would take at least as long of a bar with the same setup (extension, jackstand as a folcrum) as the torque wrench needs to do that without an impact gun. I have a neat little impact gun that will go up to 400 ft.lbs but that isn't going to get the job on our RV. The problem is that is that my impact gun is a pistol grip without a side handle and, as was already pointed out in an earlier post, it could break your wrist if you aren't careful. When working on passenger vehicles, I use an impact wrench to put the nuts on but it is set to less than the final torque spec and I can easily finish the job with my torque wrench. I was kind of hoping for a similar setup if I had to tackle the RV.
the harbor freight torque wrench works very well to break the lug nuts loose. i set it to 475# b4 breaking the lug nuts loose and back to 0 plus 1/4 turn when i am done torquing for the day.
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Old 05-17-2009, 10:03 AM   #33
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Hi chasfm11,
You are correct. I purchased the 3/4", 42" long torque wrench that goes to 600 ft lbs. The Harbor part number is 3293-3VGA.

I broke the bolts loose with my impact wrench. I have a 3/4" air/impact wrench and a compressor that delivers 150 PSI (at the hose). If one is not ready, this impact wrench will break bones.
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Old 08-31-2009, 07:51 PM   #34
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For those kind enough to read/post to this thread, I thought an update was appropriate. We just returned from a couple of months with the Gkids. The tire I took off (because it was losing air) had 120 PSI in it when I placed it in the coach basement. Upon returning from the trip the tire had 120 PSI in it! After what that tire put me though, I'm going to solve this mystery if it takes me one day short of forever. Once I get the answer, I'll be sure to post it on iRV2.
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Old 08-31-2009, 09:10 PM   #35
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Gary

I am willing to bet that you have a leak around the valve stem. I had a tire a couple of years ago that had that situation and it took forever to find it. You had to "wiggle" the valve stem the right way to make it leak. I am thinking this might be your problem as the pressure did not go down while the tire was resting. Will be watching for your findings.
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Old 09-01-2009, 05:59 AM   #36
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GaryKD,

Is this tire mounted on an aluminum wheel?

If so, I had a similiar experience a few years ago on the corporate airplane I used to fly.

For better than a year, one main gear wheel would OCCASSIONALLY lose pressure. Finally one day before the airplane was moved out of the hangar (and was low on air pressure) we soaped the tire and the wheel down good and there she was--- a hairline crack, bubbling slightly, in the aluminum wheel. We pulled her forward a wee bit and it stopped!!. It was a combination of the weight of the aircraft and the position of the wheel causing the WHEEL to leak----

Put on a new wheel, same tire, and never had another problem.

My suggestion to you would be to remount the wheel/tire on your rig, and the first time you notice it down on pressure, don't move it, soap her down good and look closely for bubbles.


Good luck,
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Old 09-01-2009, 08:55 AM   #37
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Hi Max,
Nope, the tire is on a steel wheel. Its' original placement was on the right rear inside duel.

Hi Dave,
I've done the wiggle the valve stem quite a bit. It was done with both soapy water and some stuff I bought at the auto parts store. Not a bubble could be seen. Unfortunately, this was done only after I took the tire off the coach.
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Old 09-01-2009, 06:49 PM   #38
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Has the tire ever had balancing beads in it? They can get in the valve core and cause intermittent leaks.
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:02 PM   #39
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Hi Jim,
No beads in the tire. Nothing in the tire but air.
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Old 09-09-2009, 05:52 PM   #40
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Before retirement I was a truck shop forman and we installed truck tires all day long and let me advise you not to play around with the torgue specs on these wheels,,,and air gun is not the thing to tighten the lug nuts with as they will either not get them to specks or they will tighten them to much,,,they should be torgues with a torque wrench,,,,if you tighten them too much they will heat up and strech the studs and they will pop off very easily if they are to loose they will continue to loosen and ruin the wheel and the studs and that is a very expensive repair,,,The torque wrench for the 22.5 whel is very expensive but I figure if you can drive a coach that require that size wheel then you can afford the t/w...
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Old 09-09-2009, 08:37 PM   #41
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Guys, you might want to check the torque spec for your lugs. My 22.5 wheels have a 20mm stud and use a 33mm nut. The torque spec is 280 - 310 ft lbs. Larger studs will have a bigger torque spec. Over torque will stretch the studs and they are a buggar to replace.
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Old 09-10-2009, 08:51 PM   #42
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Great thread Gary!
I have the 19.5" off and on my gasser just for fun, it seems to happen way too often. 22's are a different story all together, that is some HEAVY METAL there!

Anyone who's going to do this yourself, be careful. I use the MH jacks just to get her "level and light" and then use a 12 ton bottle jack to lift the offending tire off the ground.
On my lil tires, a 200 lb torsue wrench with a 2 foot peice of iron pipe slipped over the handle works just fine.

I can't imaging doing 22's... my 19.5's weigh over a hundred pounds each.
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