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05-14-2018, 02:39 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,529
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Changing from Deep Cycle to Starting Batteries
We never boondock or have a need to use the batteries for long cycles and deep discharging. For those reasons I'd like to simply swap my D/C 's for starting types. Does anybody think this is unwise? If so, why?
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05-14-2018, 02:47 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Western NY
Posts: 6,150
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Why? What's your reasoning?
True deep cycle like GCs are very durable reasonable price and long life if cared for.
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Don & Marge
'13 Newmar Ventana 3433 - '14 CR-V TOAD
'03 Winnebago Adventurer 31Y - SOLD
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05-14-2018, 02:51 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: On the open road
Posts: 719
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I don't boondock either. But what is going to happen if you are in a RV park and you loose power for an extended period of time? I don't know what coach you have (please put your coach information in your signature so people who have answers can help) but in my case I am all electric and even with perfect batteries I can only go for about 24 hours without park power. I can always run my generator but most parks have quiet hours. The other issue is if for some reason you take starting batteries too low you will destroy them. Two sets of starting batteries costs more than one set of deal cycle.
__________________
2014 Winnebago Tour 42QD
2014 Honda CRV Toad W7REP
WiFiRanger Elite AC Pack
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05-14-2018, 02:53 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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I wouldn't, true deep cycle batteries, if taken care of, will last far longer. The OEM Interstates in my last rig went 10 years and still would last all night.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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05-14-2018, 02:57 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fulltime, USA
Posts: 16,706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Postma
I don't know what coach you have (please put your coach information in your signature so people who have answers can help) but in my case I am all electric and even with perfect batteries I can only go for about 24 hours without park power. I can always run my generator but most parks have quiet hours. The other issue is if for some reason you take starting batteries too low you will destroy them. Two sets of starting batteries costs more than one set of deal cycle.
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I clicked on his avatar and saw....
To the OP, I keep my 2 chassis and 4 coach batteries as is.
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05-14-2018, 03:24 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puttin
We never boondock or have a need to use the batteries for long cycles and deep discharging. For those reasons I'd like to simply swap my D/C 's for starting types. Does anybody think this is unwise? If so, why?
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Get some cheap marine starting/deep cycle batteries from Wal-Mart.
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05-14-2018, 03:56 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 15,749
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We put a pair of 12v Wal-Mart marine batteries in my sons RV. Working fine for his limited dry camping usage.
__________________
Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
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05-14-2018, 03:58 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Pelham (Birmingham) AL
Posts: 400
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The answer is this: The two batteries are significantly different in internal construction.
A deep cycle battery is intended to survive deep discharge cycles with little damage. They do this with very heavy plates that are not wildly meshed so that they don't have a lot of surface area that will degrade when deep discharging. They just keep coming back for more. But the BIG difference is that the deep discharge battery can not produce nearly as much instantaneous current (cranking power). So they don't work so well for cranking things. But they do last.
The cranking batteries have a different plate construction that offers much more exposed surface area for improved reaction with the H2SO4 to produce significantly more electron flow (more current flow). But if you deep-discharge them, they get weaker very quickly and don't "come back" from the edge.
Each has its place. In my bass boat, I have a cranking battery to run the outboard, and then separate deep cycle batteries to run the trolling motor since I stay on that a large part of the time, and it can get pretty well run down in river current fishing all day long.
Have to watch out for the mistake of "to the man who has a hammer, everything looks like a nail..." There are different tools for different tasks that make things work better.
__________________
Bob Hyatt
2018 Tiffin Allegro 32SA
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05-14-2018, 05:01 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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I am with the "True Deep Cycle" Crowd
I've been in multiple CG's where they had power fails including the one I'm in now, the one I'm moving to tomorrow (Where Digger O-whatever his name was put a back hoe through a PRIMARY line. Let me tell you that was impressive. and one hurricane outage.
Those bigger batteries were a godsend.
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Home is where I park it!
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05-15-2018, 08:03 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,529
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Thanks for all the replies. My reasoning is that I can get starting batts for less than half of what D/C's cost. This will be my 3rd set since the rig was new. I've gotten 5 years out of the previous 2...about average I think. We camp in a park we stay at frequently with very few power issues. The D/C's are a waste of money in my opinion because they never get cycled properly and are mostly only there to run the water pump and turn on a few lights now and then, and to start the gen. We are on park power 100% of the time. I'll put my rig type in there so people won't have to do anything else to see it. I'm aware of all the attributes and advantages of D/C's and for us at least- we can never take full advantage of them. I don't foresee a case where my batteries will be relied on for extended periods. I am indeed looking at Wal Mart's battery selections but have always used OEM's in the past- Napa's to be specific. I have always kept them clean and watered and they live on charging from the standard converter's charging circuit (I'm not interested in doing upgrades in that dept.) Once again, thanks for all the replies.
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05-15-2018, 08:30 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Citra, Florida
Posts: 1,396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puttin
Thanks for all the replies. My reasoning is that I can get starting batts for less than half of what D/C's cost. This will be my 3rd set since the rig was new. I've gotten 5 years out of the previous 2...about average I think. We camp in a park we stay at frequently with very few power issues. The D/C's are a waste of money in my opinion because they never get cycled properly and are mostly only there to run the water pump and turn on a few lights now and then, and to start the gen. We are on park power 100% of the time. I'll put my rig type in there so people won't have to do anything else to see it. I'm aware of all the attributes and advantages of D/C's and for us at least- we can never take full advantage of them. I don't foresee a case where my batteries will be relied on for extended periods. I am indeed looking at Wal Mart's battery selections but have always used OEM's in the past- Napa's to be specific. I have always kept them clean and watered and they live on charging from the standard converter's charging circuit (I'm not interested in doing upgrades in that dept.) Once again, thanks for all the replies.
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Now that I see from this post your deep cells are about done then I would agree with you. Why buy something you dont need. I would, however buy a gel or some other no maintenance battery just because I am getting more lazy and forgetful each day.
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Good Luck and keep us posted please. "Q"
1999 Newmar, Mountain Aire 3768, V-10, CAI, Headers.
"Spending our kids inheritance one trip at a time"
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05-15-2018, 08:41 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Dayton, Nevada
Posts: 298
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Duracell GC-2 deep cycle batteries are available at Sam's Club for $84.52 each (today's price off their website). If you can find starting batteries for half that, please tell me where!
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AC7FM
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05-15-2018, 04:51 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,529
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SilverBob,
Not quite half but $59.00 and some change at WalMart (Everstart) I think.
__________________
2008 Winnebago Sightseer 35-J
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06-29-2018, 09:59 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Appalachian Campers Mid Atlantic Campers Coastal Campers Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,622
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Then go cheaper yet, and just put one 12v house battery back in.
Or if you want to go even cheaper, put no house battery's in. Just move the house battery cable connection on your charge solenoid, over to the chassis battery connection. Run everything off your existing chassis battery!
This is not something I'd personally do. I would keep the 6v's in, but if your goal is to save money because you don't need any capacity in the house batteries.....it would work.
__________________
DaveB, Raleigh, NC
2015 Tiffin RED 33AA, w/Honda CRV
VMSpc, Magnum BMK/ARC50
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