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05-05-2013, 06:39 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 18
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chassis batt not charging
i have a 1998 southwind with 454 chevrolet. My chassis battery is not charging but coach is. volt on chassis is 11.9 and coach 13.8. anyone have any ideas why chassis will not charge?
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05-05-2013, 06:40 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Entegra Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Circleville, OH
Posts: 442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by profiles
i have a 1998 southwind with 454 chevrolet. My chassis battery is not charging but coach is. volt on chassis is 11.9 and coach 13.8. anyone have any ideas why chassis will not charge?
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How old are your battery's
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Ike, & Dianne
2014 Anthem, 2015 Cornerstone 2016 Cornerstone
2019 Cornerstone, 24' Stacker to match.
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05-05-2013, 06:47 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Freeport, ME
Posts: 4,707
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When is the last time you took off the battery cables and wire brushed the posts and cleaned the ends of the cables. Also check the battery water levels
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Mike Canter
"Gunner" USN Retired, Airdale
2004 Monaco Signature 44' Conquest. Detroit 60
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05-05-2013, 07:08 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 508
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Are you plugged into shore power or running the engine. I assume shore power. Do you know that it is supposed to charge the chassis battery on shore power. Some don't. If it used to work push and hold the auxiliary start switch, if equipped, and see if the chassis voltage is the same as the coach. Is this MH new to you or have you had it a while ? Do you know if it has a BIRD system.
Tom
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2014 KZ Durango Goldrush
2018 Chevy 2500 HD Duramax/Allison
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05-05-2013, 07:20 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 502
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Stan Birch
1999 Winnebago Adventurer 32T Ford V-10
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05-05-2013, 07:27 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 15,749
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Many coaches do not charge the chassis battery when on ground power or genny - only charged via the engine alternator.
To check if charging via the engine alternator check the voltage with and without the engine running. With engine running the voltage should noticeably increase ~1-2 volts.
Common problem with GM alternators is the excitation voltage missing to the alternator. This is a small additional wire going to the alternator. should have 12vdc on it with key on or engine running. The is usually a fuse in this circuit - often blown and the problem.
If a solid state battery isolator, they also not infrequently fail.
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Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
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05-05-2013, 08:02 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan.Birch
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Actually, that thread is a different problem. That has to do with the engine alternator not charging the house batteries which probably has to do with a faulty isolator.
This thread has to do with the chassis batteries not being charged. I agree, if plugged into shore power, most older units will not charge the chassis batteries.
I like the new Amp-L-start = click. A few days ago, I watched one of my neighbors install one. It's the big brother to the Trik-L-Start.
...just didn't want the OP to get confused.
-harry
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05-05-2013, 09:29 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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I have what's in my signature and my buddy has the same year LX model on a WH chassis. His does not charge the chassis battery on shore or genny. Mine does.
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05-05-2013, 09:57 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amanda_h
This thread has to do with the chassis batteries not being charged. I agree, if plugged into shore power, most older units will not charge the chassis batteries.
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Never heard of an electrical setup that would allow the chassis battery to be charged from a converter, nor can I envision the slightest need for such an arrangement.
The traditional configuration, and purpose of an isolator, is to isolate the house batteries from the chassis battery unless the ignition is in 'run' position. The suggested alternative makes no sense.
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Stan Birch
1999 Winnebago Adventurer 32T Ford V-10
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05-05-2013, 10:03 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Freeport, ME
Posts: 4,707
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On my mh the chassis batteries are charged from the converter/inverter when on shore power or on generator power. This is common on many motorhomes.
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Mike Canter
"Gunner" USN Retired, Airdale
2004 Monaco Signature 44' Conquest. Detroit 60
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05-05-2013, 10:25 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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Many MHs have an RV Custom Products Battery Control Center, a BIRD or Trik-L-Start. The converter or inverter, running on shore or genny, charges the coach batteries and when they are fully charged, it closes the isolator and charges the chassis batteries. It also works the other way around when on the alternator. This way, both battery banks get fully charged.
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05-05-2013, 10:30 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan.Birch
Never heard of an electrical setup that would allow the chassis to be charged from a converter, nor can I envision the slightest need for such an arrangement.
The traditional configuration, and purpose of an isolator, is to isolate the house batteries from the chassis battery unless the ignition is in 'run' position. The suggested alternative makes no sense.
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Stan, "the suggested alternative" being an Amp-L-Start? I'm not understanding. That alternative makes quite a bit of sense to me assuming that his coach does not have a BIRD.
Most will want their chassis batteries to be charged while plugged into shore power. A Trik-L-Start was installed on my motorhome from the factory and I'm glad we have it.
B.I.R.D., Echo Charger, trik-L-start, or other means to keep the chassis battery charged when plugged into shore power only makes sense to me. The new Amp-L-Start seems like the most efficient and cost effective way to go.
I'm not sure if the OP of this thread has a B.I.R.D. or not. We don't know yet. If he does, then perhaps the thread you referenced may apply to his problem and he doesn't need an Amp-L-Start or Echo Charger.
-harry
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05-05-2013, 10:55 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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At home, I have umbilical cords going from BatteryMinders in my garage to my MH. I put a clothes pin on my ignition key slot to remind me to disconnect before moving my MH. Before I put the clothes pin on, I forgot to unplug and the tire salesman wanted to know what the 15' cord was that I was dragging.
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05-06-2013, 06:13 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amanda_h
Stan, "the suggested alternative" being an Amp-L-Start? I'm not understanding. That alternative makes quite a bit of sense to me assuming that his coach does not have a BIRD.
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Harry, My chassis battery never gets run down. It is used for 5 seconds in the morning to start the rig, and from there, it's being charged by the alternator all day while I am on the road.
If the rig is going to be in extended storage I do use a battery jumper cable so the solar panel will keep the chassis battery up as well; but for normal activity, I can't envision a need for the chassis battery to be placed on charge.
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Stan Birch
1999 Winnebago Adventurer 32T Ford V-10
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