Community Forums

gozierdt · 10-24-2017, 07:36 PM

Our 2004 HR is new to us in April. I’ve noticed that while the house batteries stay charged on shore power, the chassis battery slowly draws down due to some parasitic loads (haven’t checked them out yet). My question is, should the chassis battery also be charging on shore power? Is there a switch I need to find to put it into the charging circuit? Right now, I’m carrying a small storage charger and put it into the chassis battery if we’re staying in one place for more than 3 days.

dennis45 · 10-24-2017, 07:46 PM

As a Newmar owner I assumed the charging system on all coaches was designed to charge both sets of batteries. But, I've come to find out Nay Nay.

I would suggest you investigate your coach to see if it in fact does have provision to charge both. If it does, your in business. Just need to fix it.
If not, you can add one of these devices that sense chassis battery state of charge and slip a 15A charge to the chassis batteries to maintain them when plugged into shore power. I installed one of these for a friend with a Monaco. Works like a charm, easy to install and not that expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Schneider-Ele...x+echo+charger

FIRE UP · 10-24-2017, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gozierdt

Our 2004 HR is new to us in April. I’ve noticed that while the house batteries stay charged on shore power, the chassis battery slowly draws down due to some parasitic loads (haven’t checked them out yet). My question is, should the chassis battery also be charging on shore power? Is there a switch I need to find to put it into the charging circuit? Right now, I’m carrying a small storage charger and put it into the chassis battery if we’re staying in one place for more than 3 days.

gozierdt,
This is an age old scenario. There are two things that will determine your answer.

1. Was your coach built and setup for both sets to be charged, while on shore power or generator?
2. If so, just what's malfunctioning that's causing your chassis batts to drop off when plugged into shore power or gen.

As an example, about 98% of the Winnebagos and Itascas (I'm speaking pretty about diesel units here) in that same era, DID NOT set the coaches up for both sets to be charged on shore power or gen power.

It wasn't until early '06 that Winne and Itasca started installing at the factory, a unit called the "Trik-L-Start" that, is NOT a battery charger but merely a controller that will monitor both sets of batteries and, when the chassis batteries drop below .5V lower than the house batteries, it kicks into action and SIPHONS off some of the charging that's being sent to the house batteries and send it to the chassis batteries.

Now, does your coach have anything like that, not a clue. I suspect not but, I'm not an expert on your make and model. What you'd have to do is, either contact other owners of the same make/model/year and or, contact you chassis builder and/or, look for some wiring diagrams that will explain how your charging system(s) are supposed to work.

You'll more than likely get advised to add some form of a trickle charger or any type of battery charger but, again, FIND OUT what your coach came with and, how it's supposed to work, BEFORE spending any money. If you find out that your chassis batteries ARE NOT tied in to your house battery charging while on shore power, then, I'd definitely look into the Trik-L-Start or, its larger brother, the Amp-L-Start. Both would work outstanding for you.

Scott

rk911 · 10-24-2017, 07:53 PM

not necessarily. some newer motorhomes have a device that will keep the chassis battery charged. your coach may not have one or its not working. you need to check your owner's manual, call your dealer or the mfg.

apart from that look into a Trik-L-Start. easy to hookup and it will keep your chassis battery charged while the coach batteries are being charged.

Ultra TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer

Charlie 5320 · 10-24-2017, 08:34 PM

My BCC has a bad capacitor on the board so my chassis battery don't get charged anymore when plugged in. I bought another one of these, I already had one that I use on my Corvette. I've used it on the Corvette now for 5 years, works great and don't boil the battery. I bought another on for my MH.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CTEK-56-158...gAAOSwYmZXIYpz

gozierdt · 10-24-2017, 10:45 PM

So while I’m investigating the MH chassis charging system, I’ve ordered a waterproof Battery Tender that I can permanently install in the front engine compartment. That will take the chassis battery charging responsibility out of the MH system. Yes, there may still be a misunderstood charging capability built into the MH electrical system, but it’s not working now- if it exists- so I’m happier with a separate system.

FIRE UP · 10-24-2017, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gozierdt

So while I’m investigating the MH chassis charging system, I’ve ordered a waterproof Battery Tender that I can permanently install in the front engine compartment. That will take the chassis battery charging responsibility out of the MH system. Yes, there may still be a misunderstood charging capability built into the MH electrical system, but it’s not working now- if it exists- so I’m happier with a separate system.

While that approach is an easy way out of your problem, it could CAUSE you problems at a later date, maybe sooner. If you do have a charging system for both and it's only temporarily non-op, if it does automatically kick in at any time, you could have issues. Better to fix what you've got rather than add bandaids. Your coach, your choice.
Scott

Arch Hoagland · 10-25-2017, 12:41 AM

https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20108.../dp/B002OWFLC4

That will solve the problem. Guaranteed.

l1v3fr33ord1 · 10-25-2017, 03:54 AM

Gene-

I have wiring diagrams for the 2005 Monaco Monarch, which is the "twin" to the HR Admiral. Those diagrams show the same devices and relays/solenoids in place for the 2005 as in our 2008. So, assuming your 2004 is not different from the 2005 (and ours), your cross-charging system consist of an Intellitec Isolator Relay Delay (IRD) module and a solenoid. Both of these parts are mounted to the Front Distribution Panel (FDP), which is located inside the front-most outside compartment on the driver's side. Part numbers are:

Intellitec Isolator Relay Delay (IRD) module: 00-00629-120
Tombetta solenoid: 734-1221-020

The IRD was a one-way unit: Alternator ---> House batteries

For the moment we'll assume the solenoid is working correctly.

If you want to add charging from the house charger to the chassis battery, you have these choices:

1) Upgrade to a BIRD (Bi-directional Isolator Relay Delay)

1a) "Megatech of Oregon" manufactured a drop-in BIRD replacement for the IRD (it fit right where the IRD was on the FDP). The Megatech part number was 16624716. I bought two off eBay (one replacement, one spare). Unhappily, it seems that unit is no longer available on eBay or elsewhere.

1b) Intellitec sells a stand-alone BIRD. It's part number is 00-00362-000. Here's a link to the product page. If you go this route, we should discuss how to best wire the BIRD into the FDP (there are better ways, and not-so-better ways). I might be convinced to make the plug-and-play wiring harness for you.

2) Install a Trik-L-Start or Amp-L-Start. Links here and here.

Me, I'd pick 1b). It meets the spirit of the original design. Option 2) is easier to implement.

I would not install a separate charger for the chassis battery. A charger requires you find a 120V source. With the options above, you're dealing strictly with 12V connections.

Send me a private message should you want copies of the wiring diagrams for the 2005 Monarch and other models of the same era.