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Old 12-26-2014, 10:42 AM   #15
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I checked again, this time reaching in from the back of the engine instead of from the top to get voltage at the alternator. I'm still getting 0V, grounding the neg lead to the chassis.
I can feel the small wire on the other side of the alternator. What should it read with the engine running and off?

Where do I go for the wiring diagram-freightliner or fleetwood?

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Old 12-26-2014, 04:09 PM   #16
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12 + volts when in the run position.

2003 Sightseer 33L
Ford F53
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Old 12-26-2014, 09:02 PM   #17
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You can get clip leads to attach temp wires to alternator so you can test while engine is running.

Route wire a safe route and be sure it is secured.
Tony & Lori
1989 Country Coach Savannah SE
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Old 01-06-2015, 01:34 PM   #18
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Finally got a chance to check the sensing or excitation voltage at the alternator. It's reading 11.5 volts with the ignition in the start position and a little less with the engine running. Sounds like this points to a bad alternator doesnt it? If there were a problem downstream I'd still see an output from the alternator. The large positive coming off of the alternator reads 0v. Running and off -so it isn't reading voltage from the batteries shutdown either
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Old 01-06-2015, 02:02 PM   #19
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I found this burnt connection just now. It's the purple wire that goes to the bottom of the big boy isolator. What is the purpose of the isolator?
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Old 01-06-2015, 02:32 PM   #20
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Just checked the isolator. It as 13.8v on both sides with the engine off (on shore power) and 12.2v on one side and 13.8 on the other with the engine running.
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Old 01-17-2015, 02:43 PM   #21
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It's been a few days and hope you've come across the solution. The isolator keeps the two battery banks separate. The hot wire comes in from alternator to the isolator and then is divided to the two sets of batteries. The Isolator is one big diode ( one way traffic) so if one battery bank goes dead it doesn't drain the other bank.

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battery, chassis

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