Chassis battery's overcharged

[meyr]

Any electricians listening? My 2004 journey has been sitting idle for two months while I was on my real job. Got home today and was going to crank her up and move around a bit, but when I tried to switch on the master battery switch, nothing would happen. Took my voltage meter out to the the battery and found the chassis battery's reading almost 17 volts while the house group was a normal 12.5 volts. Up front in the breaker box at what I assume is where the actual cut out switch is, I find the same 17 volts on one side of the switch with about 13 on the other side. Coach has not been plugged in to shore power, only the standard issue solar panel that came with it, which is showing 13.2 volts on the panel. I'm guessing the master battery switch isn't going to activate until the voltage is more in the safe range, just can't figure out why they are so overcharged.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by meyr

Any electricians listening? My 2004 journey has been sitting idle for two months while I was on my real job. Got home today and was going to crank her up and move around a bit, but when I tried to switch on the master battery switch, nothing would happen. Took my voltage meter out to the the battery and found the chassis battery's reading almost 17 volts while the house group was a normal 12.5 volts. Up front in the breaker box at what I assume is where the actual cut out switch is, I find the same 17 volts on one side of the switch with about 13 on the other side. Coach has not been plugged in to shore power, only the standard issue solar panel that came with it, which is showing 13.2 volts on the panel. I'm guessing the master battery switch isn't going to activate until the voltage is more in the safe range, just can't figure out why they are so overcharged.

Meyr,
Well, first off, unless someone's actually added a CHASSIS battery main switch, your coach does not have one. I'm kind-a familiar with the Winne products of that era and, Winnebago didn't really start adding chassis battery shut down switches 'till right late '05 or '06. There IS a HOUSE battery shut down switch or, solenoid I should say, up front, where you lift the hood, and reveal the panel that is held on with zeus fasteners. Right on that panel is should say, "Aux Batt Boost & House Batt switch" or something to that effect.

When you shut down the house batteries via the toggle inside the coach, you shut down that large solenoid behind that panel. And, when you push the Aux Battery Boost toggle on the dash, you also close that other solenoid inside that panel. And, that same solenoid also closes via the ignition when the engine is started which, at that time, allows for alternator charging to go to both sets of batteries.

So, as for your "17 Volts" and you're not plugged into shore power, well, that's a new one on me. There is absolutely NO WAY that the factory installed roof solar panel can develop that kind of voltage. If you're not plugged in to shore power and are getting that kind of voltage ANYWHERE, I'd have to do some investigation. Wow, I can see you getting that kind of voltage if, you were plugged into shore power and, your Dimensions 2000 Watt Inverter/Charger went berzerkoid but, you say you're not plugged in. Hmmm
Scott

[jporietis]

Could you be reading the meter wrong and it's 1.7 v

[meyr]

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

Meyr,

Well, first off, unless someone's actually added a CHASSIS battery main switch, your coach does not have one. I'm kind-a familiar with the Winne products of that era and, Winnebago didn't really start adding chassis battery shut down switches 'till right late '05 or '06. There IS a HOUSE battery shut down switch or, solenoid I should say, up front, where you lift the hood, and reveal the panel that is held on with zeus fasteners. Right on that panel is should say, "Aux Batt Boost & House Batt switch" or something to that effect.



When you shut down the house batteries via the toggle inside the coach, you shut down that large solenoid behind that panel. And, when you push the Aux Battery Boost toggle on the dash, you also close that other solenoid inside that panel. And, that same solenoid also closes via the ignition when the engine is started which, at that time, allows for alternator charging to go to both sets of batteries.



So, as for your "17 Volts" and you're not plugged into shore power, well, that's a new one on me. There is absolutely NO WAY that the factory installed roof solar panel can develop that kind of voltage. If you're not plugged in to shore power and are getting that kind of voltage ANYWHERE, I'd have to do some investigation. Wow, I can see you getting that kind of voltage if, you were plugged into shore power and, your Dimensions 2000 Watt Inverter/Charger went berzerkoid but, you say you're not plugged in. Hmmm

Scott

Been thinking this over and being a semi owner for forty some years the voltage think is something I've never seen or heard of either, so I'm thinking the batts are so low and drained, that I'm just getting erratic readings. It's only two, so I'll pull them tomorrow and let Napa load test them. As with the trucks, three years is about all you should expect out of them. As for the battery disconnect. Back at the fridge is an electronic panel that reads chassis voltage and also is a disconnect for chassis battery's. Didn't buy this coach new, but sure looks like factory install to me. Also have the paddle switch on the dash for house on and off and the paddle for boost start. As you stated there is no way I can conceive of ever reaching that much voltage without 110 coming in.

[FIRE UP]

Hey Meyr,
I thank you for getting back here on this issue. My primary reasoning for stating you shouldn't have a chassis battery disconnect switch is, we own an '04 Itasca Horizon, as you know, built on the same assembly line, and it, as well as many, many of other Winne coaches of the same year and even '05s don't have a chassis battery switch. Now, while I'm certainly no expert on any of this, I've just not heard of any on Winne coaches, lower than an '06 diesel model. I guess it doesn't mean they don't exist, it just means I didn't (don't) know they do.

But, as for your spike in voltage, that's gonna be interesting to see what would cause that.
Scott

[meyr]

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

Hey Meyr,

I thank you for getting back here on this issue. My primary reasoning for stating you shouldn't have a chassis battery disconnect switch is, we own an '04 Itasca Horizon, as you know, built on the same assembly line, and it, as well as many, many of other Winne coaches of the same year and even '05s don't have a chassis battery switch. Now, while I'm certainly no expert on any of this, I've just not heard of any on Winne coaches, lower than an '06 diesel model. I guess it doesn't mean they don't exist, it just means I didn't (don't) know they do.



But, as for your spike in voltage, that's gonna be interesting to see what would cause that.

Scott

Hey Scott, it is with shameful embarrassment I finally figured out what was going on. AFTER I put my glasses on, I discovered the decimal point on my little volt meter is not always in the same spot. I knew by checking the house battery's and seeing the 12.6 or close to that where it would be and ASSUMED it was be in the same spot when checking the chassis,but no, it moved over one spot and like another post, I was showing 1.7 volts. Swapped them out yesterday and we are back in business. But you are incorrect on the kill switch. I even took a pic for you and will try to attach it. You even had me second guessing my model, but yes, it is still an 04 on a freightliner chassis.

[meyr]

And one other mention Scott. Before I bought this one, I looked at an 05 journey with a 350 cat and it had a kill switch too. However, it was located behind the grill and was your heavy duty run of the mill battery disconnect switches, but it did not look like it was added on after the fact either. Or if it was, the guy did a magnificent job.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by meyr

And one other mention Scott. Before I bought this one, I looked at an 05 journey with a 350 cat and it had a kill switch too. However, it was located behind the grill and was your heavy duty run of the mill battery disconnect switches, but it did not look like it was added on after the fact either. Or if it was, the guy did a magnificent job.

Meyr,
I can't remember just when Winne and or Freightliner started adding the chassis battery switch, just behind the rear grill. The pic below is of a buddies 36' Meridian. It's either an '05 or '06, I can't remember. Isn't it great getting old? But, you can zoom in on that pic, you'll see the chassis battery rotary switch just behind that grill on the left side. Yes, that's a factory switch.

As for your "misinterpreted" battery readings, well, don't be hard on yourself. We've all been there, WAY MORE THAN ONCE. Write it off as a learning experience. This kind-a why I emphasize so much for folks who purchase a new-to-them rig, to get out any and all books, pamphlets, addendums etc. that might have come with the coach and take a few nights and go through them. Learn every thing there is to know about that coach that is within your grasp. Not taking the engine or trans apart and putting it back together, I'm just speaking of the charging system(s) both from the alternator and shore power and see just what's involved with both systems.

The lighting system both interior and exterior and, the trailer plug, learn where all the fuses for all of those are. Just things like that help immensely when some more simple problems crop up. It doesn't hurt a thing to ask folks on here about problems but, it also helps to have a basis working knowledge of your coach. Good luck on yours.
Scott

[marjoa]

Originally Posted by jporietis

Could you be reading the meter wrong and it's 1.7 v

Nice call. Seems you were right. Good job. Many times the simplest answer is the right one.