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Old 02-06-2015, 12:31 PM   #1
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Cheap Ingenious Fixes / Additions? Show them off!

I'd like to see some cheap fixes (and additions) that some of you have done. Not necessarily just big ones, but even little ones.
One that I recently did on my (now sold) Class C was to 'fix' the awning. The top of the awning was pealing due to sun damage. I've heard this is the weak link in awnings since everyone's tears there. I decided to make a partial cover for it and permanently fix it to the material. Using the existing 'wave' pattern on the end of the awning, I made a pattern for my new pieces. I used complimentary color vinyl and cut 3 pieces about 7" wide. I did have to line up the pattern for the wave from one piece to the next. Then I pealed off any flaky parts on the awning and laid a thick layer of contact cement. I also coated the vinyl as well. You have to be a little careful not to glue the awning to the channel. This would make it difficult to R/R the awing later. The whole job was about 3 hrs but that was learning time too and cost was $25. To me, it is hardly noticeable and looks like it belongs there and beats the heck out of $300 for a new awning.
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Old 02-06-2015, 02:31 PM   #2
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Your quick fix is commendable.
The top of rolled up awnings get brittle and crack from the daily UV rays of the sun beating down and abuse from trees branches while in tight spaces.
To protect the awning from UV rays and scratching you may of noticed that many higher end RVs have Alumiguard that wraps around the awning when closed. Tires and awnings have one thing in common, UV protection coverings extend their life. Alumiguard is an option that can be added to awnings.
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Old 02-06-2015, 03:05 PM   #3
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Cheap Fix

My Kwikee (Power Gear) hydraulic levelers started giving the dreaded "jacks down" alarm more and more often. Finally traced it down to a bad magnetic sensor switch in the top of a jack. The switch was not available at the time and would have cost over $150 if it was. A plunger type, water/oil resistant micro switch, two large hose clamps and problem solved. Total cost, $15 and ten minutes work. No problems since.
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Old 02-06-2015, 03:18 PM   #4
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Nice! That's what I'm talking about. Pretty heavy duty switch.
doggy daddy.. Yes, My new Itasca has aluminum covers, otherwise I'd be doing the same project over again before they start rotting away.
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Old 02-06-2015, 03:41 PM   #5
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Now this thread should be a sticky. Thanks for starting it!
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Old 02-07-2015, 12:28 PM   #6
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35' Marinco 50A Cord Container




A simple way to contain and carry those heavy, mind of their own, Marinco shorepower cords.

The container was purchased in the Home Depot garden section several years ago for about $10.

I have no idea what it is called or what its original purpose was.......
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Old 02-07-2015, 12:38 PM   #7
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My P30 chassis gasser had a jury-rigged heater valve. The cable going from the dash control to the heater valve broke at the dash end. The previous owner just put in a manual valve. If you wanted more heat, you had to stop the coach, get out,open the front and open the valve.

I found an electronic valve at thermotion.com and installed that. While I was in there, I replaced the heater hoses with the heavy duty hose. The temperature control was in a pot that I installed next to the old heater control.
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Old 02-07-2015, 12:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deandec View Post



A simple way to contain and carry those heavy, mind of their own, Marinco shorepower cords.

The container was purchased in the Home Depot garden section several years ago for about $10.

I have no idea what it is called or what its original purpose was.......
Looks like a tray to go under a large flower pot or planter.
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Old 02-07-2015, 12:39 PM   #9
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Bag of Rocks

Frequently, when we hook up to the sewer line at many camp grounds, I find that the opening is a slightly different size than the outlet on the RV Sanicon system. To end problems like that, I bought a heavy, water proof plastic zip lock bag ($3), put a bunch of pebbles in it, and use it to solve the problem. Place the plastic bag on top of the sewer connection, and the weight keeps the outlet/inlet in place without danger of it coming loose. The bag is "deformable", so it conforms to the shape of the connections. Problem solved.
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Old 02-07-2015, 02:14 PM   #10
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I screwed a section of piano hinge on the plywood of the seats of our "dining hutch". Had to nip of the corner of each one to clear the window blind hardware.
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Old 02-07-2015, 06:24 PM   #11
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No pic here but today when in one of my outside storage areas had to hold it up with my head because it was one of a few that don't have a hold up latch(you know the ones by a heater or door latch) asked myself how can I hold this up so I will buy a suction cup and rope or bungee then attach suction cup to side of MH and walla door will stay up......
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Old 02-08-2015, 05:27 AM   #12
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I carry my heavy, spare cords in the bottom of my large collapsible trash can. When camping, release tabs and insert plastic bag. Weight of cords keeps bin in place. When traveling, trash bin helps protect cords and extra air hose from damage.
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Old 02-08-2015, 06:23 AM   #13
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We travel with a cat and our MH has outside access doors to the space under the dining table seat. A small cat door on the panel in the 'foot area' of the dinette allows our cat access to the litter box that can be reached through the outside door to clean. I see newer class Cs that have large storage spaces under the rear bed accessible from the outside that could be accessed by the cat the same way with a cat door in one of the night stands by the bed.
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Old 02-08-2015, 06:44 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pagosajoe View Post
Frequently, when we hook up to the sewer line at many camp grounds, I find that the opening is a slightly different size than the outlet on the RV Sanicon system. To end problems like that, I bought a heavy, water proof plastic zip lock bag ($3), put a bunch of pebbles in it, and use it to solve the problem. Place the plastic bag on top of the sewer connection, and the weight keeps the outlet/inlet in place without danger of it coming loose. The bag is "deformable", so it conforms to the shape of the connections. Problem solved.
For another solution to a similar problem, I used an old Scuba weight belt that I had left over from diving in my younger years. It stores easily and is heavy enough to hold the 90 degree donut in place when there are no threads to secure the fitting.
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