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Old 10-16-2015, 04:03 PM   #1
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Class A Backup Camera Inoperative

I drove over to Crestview, Fl this afternoon to fire up all the MH systems, discovering that the backup (Rear Facing) camera system is inoperative. The monitor turns and illuminates, but I have no picture, only a gray illuminated screen. My first inclination is to get a ladder, and remove the camera, looking for loose connectors/wiring. As noted in my profilr, the MH is a 2010 Thor Hurricane 33T. Has anyone been through this? Would appreciate any advice given. Thanks.
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:20 PM   #2
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I'd start by looking under the dash, at the back of the monitor. It could just be a loose connection from the monitor to the camera. If that isn't the solution, then you could see if the camera wires are accessible from a cabinet or closet in the back of the RV. If that's not possible, THEN go up the ladder.
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:27 PM   #3
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Do you have side cameras, do they work?
How about audio from the camera?

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Old 10-16-2015, 11:07 PM   #4
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Unless you find a loose wire, it is very hard to diagnose whether you have a bad camera or a bad monitor. Without a spare camera and spare monitor that is.
My MH is in the shop now. For the refrigerator, again grrrrr. The rear view camera was not working, so I had them look at it as well. By swapping out a camera from another RV, they were able to determine the camera was good, but the monitor had ceased to function. It was a 2004 Sony which is no longer available ( so I am told). They were able to replace with a new monitor but it required a retro fit kit.
Don't worry everyone. I have CoachNet RV Protect so both the monitor and refrig repair are covered
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Old 10-16-2015, 11:41 PM   #5
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Don't have side cameras, only the rear camera. Guess I ought to take a look at the monitor first, because it had slid out of the mount about one inch. Since it was powered on, I figured the connection to it was good. I guess there might be two connectors on it, though. Now I need to figure out how to access the connectors on the rear. Fortunately, I also have an extended warranty. Just didn't want to lose the use of the MH during the fall season. Was hoping for something simple like a connector or wire fell off.
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Old 10-17-2015, 08:00 AM   #6
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I had this same problem with my Newmar. I was able to remove the dash monitor from it's mount and "plug/unplug" the connector. I then sprayed a bit of WD40 in both the male and female connector and repeated the plug/unplug process. Everything works now and seems to have corrected the problem.

I could still have a loose or corroded ground, but all is well now. Suggest you try this before spending money on the problem.
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Old 10-17-2015, 12:06 PM   #7
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x2 on checking the camera connections at the monitor and camera.

Been there fixed that.
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Old 10-17-2015, 05:31 PM   #8
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Is one of your toggle switches on the front labled A/B? My monitor will accept two feeds but only one is connected to a camera. If it gets accidently moved to the "B" position all I get is a blank, illuminated , gray screen.
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:00 PM   #9
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The problem with my backup camera ended up being a connector that had become detached from the monitor. The hardware securing the monitor to the front dash had broken, allowing the monitor to flop around. The mechanic said this is something he sees a lot of on Thor Motor Homes. He installed improved retaining hardware he locally manufactured, and all is good.
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Old 11-19-2015, 04:28 AM   #10
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My BU camera works intermittently. PO had the connectors cleaned on the camera, but did not fix the problem, evidently.

I just ordered a wireless camera and monitor from Tadi Bros. I am concerned about their poor feedback, but it is the best solution for my situation. Hopefully I can make it work.
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Old 11-19-2015, 08:53 AM   #11
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One thing to check is the solenoid inside the BCC (Battery Control Center). This automotive type solenoid handles high current for other sections of the RV and the contacts can become pitted and coated with carbon. This causes a 'Dry Circuit' problem and the camera cannot overcome the carbon coating to get enough juice to operate.

To test, with the key on, remove the cover on the BCC and with a rubber mallet, whack the solenoids inside. Go check if you have a picture. If you do, replace the solenoid with a 'continuous duty' starting solenoid from any auto parts store.

If that didn't seem to fix anything, whack it again a few more times to relieve stress. Whack some other stuff too. Take the rest of the day off.
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