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Old 05-13-2015, 08:21 PM   #1
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 41
Class a brake and wheel issues

So one this 97 hr endeavor gas I took it for a test drive. It all felt fine. We'll as fine as driving a house down the street can go. I felt like a boss pulling it out of the driveway with no issues. Felt pretty good. So I got out on the road and looked down and saw the brake light was on, on the gauges. Already cheating the e brake 3 times before I left. So I get back to the house and stop and it's a small cloud of smoke. But smelt weird. Did smell like oil and didn't smell like brakes. So I figured it was just because it hasn't been driven in awhile. So with a slight concern I shrug it of. The brake light would go on and off. I thought it was weird. But being around car my whole life I figured it really nothing. So after letting it run in the driveway for a while I decide to take it for another round. 2nd time it felt like it drove alot better. But about 2 miles away from the house I started hearing a sound from the front left wheel. It sounded like it was going flat. I feel everyone's heard the sound before. So I pull over get out and check and nothing. I roughly look at the alignment and looked straight. So I carefully drive it back to my house. The sound didn't change it didn't matter if I was turning or what. The sound stayed the same until I slowed down. Well i pull in the drive way and an even bigger cloud of smoke comes from the rear brakes again. It's only got 45k miles. And I can't think for the life of me what it couod be. Please help.

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Old 05-13-2015, 09:17 PM   #2
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Sounds like you are leaking brake fluid onto the hot rear brakes. It may be either a leaking cylinder or a blown brake line. With only 45k miles on an eighteen year old rig there is probably a lot of rubber dry rot. My workhorse started smoking from the left rear and it turned out to be a bad wheel seal. The front tire sound could be a flat spot from sitting for a long time.

Dan & Ro with two Rescued Boston "Terrorists"
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Previously '06 Itasca Sunrise 35A on a W22 Workhorse
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Old 05-14-2015, 01:43 PM   #3
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Hi Chasecoffey, sounds like it is time for a complete brake overhaul. As Dan pointed out, you are probably suffering from rubber rot and overall deterioration.
It would be worthwhile to pull the wheels and inspect the brakes and rear axle seals but at the age of that chassis it would be wise to go through the brake system entirely and know you are solid. New Master Cylinder, rebuilt calipers with pads all around and new brake hoses.
Best of luck!
1995 Coachmen Santara 360MB 36' w/slide.
Ford F53/460 chassis, 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee "toad"
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Old 05-14-2015, 02:09 PM   #4
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Yes, the guy that I'm getting it from has said he will pay for the repairs. Which I was happy to hear.
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Old 05-14-2015, 10:20 PM   #5
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Get a creeper and go front to back. Check all lines and hoses. Especially brake and fuel lines. Also check all of your radiator and heater hoses.

Craig & Carolyn Roberts Apple Valley, CA
2006 Newmar 3910 KSDP 400 ISL Cummins Spartan Mountian Master Chassis
Toad: 2010 Chevy Colorado 4X4
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Old 05-14-2015, 10:33 PM   #6
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Just doing a visible inspection won't catch deterioration inside the rubber hoses. It's a known problem and keeps the brake fluid from draining back to the master cyl. resulting in overheated brakes. There have been several stories/articles in magazines about the problem.
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
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Old 05-15-2015, 09:26 PM   #7
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Take it to someone who knows what they are doing! A qualified brake shop.
Dennis & Marcie & Hook The Jack Russell, 2001 HR Imperial 38wds 350 Cummins, 07 Chevy Trailblazer/Blue Ox/Ready Brake, 04 Dodge 3500 Cummins,
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:32 AM   #8
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X2 on the qualified. Very few RV dealers are qualified for chassis work. Take it someplace that works on trucks! They'll have people that know what they're doing and you'll have a much better chance of getting it right the first time.

1997 37' HR Endeavor, 275hp Cat, Freightliner
03 CR-V Blue Ox, Ready Brake
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brake, class a

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