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Old 05-14-2015, 07:48 AM   #29
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I purchased 2 Ken Tool T45A 34645 tire irons from Tool Topia $43 apiece to do my duallys in February. I had seen tire changers with these irons previous. I found I didn't have any trouble breaking the bead on my 255/70/R22.5 tires on steel rims. Once I removed the valve stem I hit sidewalk with sledge type hammer & bead was broken. I watched the videos on YouTube & by the 3rd & 4th tire demount/mount I was getting the hang of it. I did ask my wife to hold one iron in place so I could get the last of the bead over, it's a bit difficult to keep the tire bead from popping back off near the end. I purchased special tire snot from O'Reilly automotive. When I aired the tire up the tires went right on without a problem. There was no "boom boom" like My auto & motorcycle tires. I used a bar for torquing the wheel nuts on the 20mm studs to 280-310 ft-lbs. my wife's weight multiplied by the length of the lever arm. I used the RV hydraulic jacks for lifting . I didn't need to go under the RV which worked fine. I was pleased with the results
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Old 05-14-2015, 08:52 AM   #30
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Any thoughts on at least carrying a plug tool kit? Anyone have any recommendations on a good quality one designed for large tires? If it's just a leak and not a blow out a plug kit might get you to the next place there's a tire shop to get it fixed permanently.
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Old 05-14-2015, 09:58 AM   #31
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That would be my choice. The black or brown rope type works fine, and will get you to a place, where they can break it down and patch it.
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:15 AM   #32
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The unmounted spare just barely fits in my basement between the floor and the frame. I don't believe a mounted and inflated tire would fit.
Same for my coach. I have AAA RV Plus roadside and will just show them where the nice new Toyo spare tire is when, God forbid, I have a blowout...
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Old 05-14-2015, 12:05 PM   #33
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"I'm a healthy 60 year old and can wrangle heavy items fairly well. I'm sure this isn't rocket science, but I know how difficult and potentially dangerous regular auto repair tasks can be if you've never done them before. Add to that the size and weight a class A brings and I'd think you need to have adequate respect for the job in front of you.

Again, let's not hijack this thread with "why would you do this?"

Well, here's my unsolicited advise:
I don't think that you said where you will drive your MH but your comments indicate that you know the dangers of DIY repair. I would leave it to the experts. In talking with others about tire problems most have not had to contend with them as long as they keep the tires fresh and maintain the tire pressure - I really like the TPMS as it gives me a constant reading of all 10 tires on MH and Toad.

I've had two blowouts with the 5W I used to have before getting a 40' DP a couple of years ago and I know that it can ruin a good day. I had AAA road service both times even though i could have change the mounted tire myself.

When I got the DP the tires were about 7+ years old so i replaced all 6 tires. I kept the best one (only 7000 miles or so) as an unmounted spare and I may get a wheel so I can carry it mounted in the basement. I also replaced the TPMS with a Tiresafeguard with owner replaceable batteries. Fortunately I have room in the basement to carry the tire whether mounted or unmounted. That is about as far as i will go as I won't deal with even removing the mounted tire from the coach - that's what road service is for.

One poster mentioned a spare tire holder on the coach but he thought that it would preclude pulling a Toad. It seems to me that there should be spare tire mounts available that would have a hitch receiver built in (or added). I have seen rear motorcycle racks that had a hitch receiver included. If a mounted spare was on the rear of the coach then all that you would need to do is get the tools, etc to R&R the mounted tire if youi can't get road service.

Personally, I would let someone else do it unless I was in the middle of nowhere and would have to wait for days.

I did hijack your thread but if I were you I would seriously re-think dismounting and mounting tires on the wheels and use road service.

Lee
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Old 05-14-2015, 12:25 PM   #34
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"


Personally, I would let someone else do it unless I was in the middle of nowhere and would have to wait for days.

I did hijack your thread but if I were you I would seriously re-think dismounting and mounting tires on the wheels and use road service.

Lee
The hijacking comment seems to have kept off topic responses to a minimum. But I learned a lot about changing tires and what tools are required. As I said in my original post I do have roadside service and I will absolutely let a pro come and do the work. Based on what I've seen I'd need $300-$500 of extra tools to do a job I've alreadyy bought insurance against. If I had a flat level concrete pad I could do work on I'd be tempted to buy the Jack, torque multiplier and other stuff to be able to take the wheels off just to be able to do my own brake inspections and whatnot. But I can't do that kind of work in my driveway since it is neither level or long enough. And I don't think I'd try to do it on the gravel storage site I have.
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Old 05-14-2015, 08:34 PM   #35
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The hijacking comment seems to have kept off topic responses to a minimum. But I learned a lot about changing tires and what tools are required. As I said in my original post I do have roadside service and I will absolutely let a pro come and do the work. Based on what I've seen I'd need $300-$500 of extra tools to do a job I've alreadyy bought insurance against. If I had a flat level concrete pad I could do work on I'd be tempted to buy the Jack, torque multiplier and other stuff to be able to take the wheels off just to be able to do my own brake inspections and whatnot. But I can't do that kind of work in my driveway since it is neither level or long enough. And I don't think I'd try to do it on the gravel storage site I have.
Jondrew,
As I stated in my first answer to you, I already have the Torque Multiplier and, I have used it, several times. I DO DO all my own inspections and maintenance. That includes replacing rear and front axle seals, S-cam component lubrication, brake shoe and drum inspections and a lot more. I've changed a few zillion tires in my life and, while I'd not want to do it for any regularity, I could handle it if and when a time arose for which, we could not reach road service etc. As with most D/P coaches, we have two kinds of wheels and tires.

There's the steel combo, which weighs right close to 147 lbs. and, then there's the alloy (Aluminum) ones, that weigh right at 122 lbs. Both are 80R 255 22.5". You'd be amazed at how easy that style torque multiplier works. You can't even tell it's breaking the lug nut free. You start turning the handle with one hand and, the lug nut is already turning. To me, it was well worth purchasing it for the work I perform on a fairly often basis.
Scott
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Old 05-15-2015, 08:14 AM   #36
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OK--after 35 entries, I have forgotten exactly what it was the OP even asked. However, I am pretty sure that a guy who claims to have "changed a zillion tires" already knew the answer to his question before he asked it. Good job stirring the pot--gives us old RVers [hi-jackers] something to talk about [smile].....
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Old 05-15-2015, 11:00 AM   #37
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If you are determined to do it yourself look at Northern Tool, they should have everything you need. I would get a Slide Hammer instead of a sledge type hammer to break the bead. I have seen guys swing the hammer & miss & really put a nasty ding in a beautiful aluminum wheel. Watch as many videos as possible & better yet consult with someone who knows what they are doing & practice on a junk wheel & tire. You will need more than your MH air to seat the bead if that is what you are planning on doing. It's not rocket science but can get out of hand very quickly.
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Old 05-15-2015, 12:05 PM   #38
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I read in another thread about putting thick rope around the circumference of the tire and taking an axe handle and twisting until you compress the tire enough that the bead will stick enough to start getting air in it. Amazon also had some sort of gizmo with a 5 gal air tank that sets the bead by blasting air into it.

Right now this is as much of a mental exercise as anything else.
Use a tie strap with the ratchet on it, wrap the tire and tighten to get the bead started.
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Old 05-15-2015, 08:10 PM   #39
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I worked for about 10 years at a good year store and I have changed many semi tires on the side of the road. All you really need is two of the long tire spoons, a gallon of skid bead breaker fluid and a bucket of bead seating jelly. You probably won't need a tire hammer if you have larger 22.5 or 24.5 rims. It always seems like the smaller rims are tougher to do. You can even get a ok balance job with equal balancing beads. My advise would be that if you have nice aluminum wheels you should let a pro do it. Better to learn on steel wheels first.
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Old 05-16-2015, 12:30 AM   #40
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We carry an unmounted Retread as a Temporary Spare .Ours is a 22.5 ..275/70 ! In Six trips from Canada to Mexico and back it has been unnecessary! That said I will still continue bringing it along only because although in Mexico there are Many Tire Repair places along the Highways ,few if any carry much of a selection of Tires in stock.
We would rather have the correct Tire that has been sourced from a reliable Tire Store than be buying a questionable ,probably well used Tire even as a Temporary Spare!
Obviously since the Retread even temporarily isn't allowed on the Front of the vehicle We will make sure that it is only placed on the rear axle .
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Old 05-16-2015, 11:05 AM   #41
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Rob,

It seems that if you can't use the retread on the front axle (is it a law or?) you are leaving yourself 1/3 uncovered. How about getting a good used non-retread and then you can use it on all positions?

I carry an unmounted spare in the basement of the MH - it was one of the 7 year old tires I replaced when I bought the MH a couple of years ago. In a couple of years I will try to find a more recent used tire to carry as a spare.

I had been told by a Les Schwabe dealer that I can't mix aluminum and steel wheels but i found out otherwise. I called Monaco tech support and I was told that my rig would most likely have steel wheels on the inner duals from the factory. I checked it out and there are steel wheels on the inner duals. I even watched while the tires were replaced and I didn't notice the inner steel wheels. I think I was in shock about the ~$3,000 to replace 6 tires.

That being said I checked prices for steel vs aluminum wheels and the steel is $135 and the aluminum is ~$350+. I am going to order a steel wheel and have the tire mounted as soon as I can. If we have a flat and have a mounted spare available we should be able to get back on the road sooner.

We are using AAA RV Plus but I am considering going to Good Sam or another emergency service at the time our AAA membership expires. I do like the maps and travel info from AAA and that is one reason for staying with them. If anyone has thoughts and/or recommendations for emergency road service I would like to hear from them.

Lee
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Old 05-16-2015, 11:46 AM   #42
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Class A Change my own tire tool kit

Since the most often changed tire is the outer dual on the right rear ,I think that I'm ok with the retread,which I change out every year. I have an inside connection at a trucking Company,who is very good at keeping everything up to date for Us! The last two Years it was easier to source a. Retread than to clean up and carry one of the Used Tires. The Trucking Company seldom resorts to running any used stuff other than Retreads which have been inspected by the Tire supplier. These are only ever used on Trailers, not on the Tractor units which get Brand New Tires Only.

In the unlikely event that it needs to go on the front ,it would be for a very short and slow drive to the nearest shop only anyway!

I could easily carry a mounted Tire ,but prefer the unmounted as that still gives Me Storage inside the casing. Plus it is lighter!

Your right that Steel Wheels are heavier and less expensive than Aluminum, however there are deals to be had on both types that bring the price way way down closer to $200 than your $350.

The Alcoa Brand is the top of the heap price wise, but they are Not the Only Company that makes a quality Aluminum wheel. One thing that attracts most to that brand is the Shiny finish and coating! Certainly easier to keep looking nice but not necessary on an inner wheel of an Older Motorhome like mine.
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