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Old 02-23-2016, 10:48 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
Just to help visualize...The entire garage in an Outlaw is BEHIND the rear axle.

...
I would be interested on the rear axle weight for that one.
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Old 02-23-2016, 11:13 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by head gamez View Post
The swivel wheel...

Attachment 119661
My first thought is that behind a heavy DP with a shorter overhang this still adds a lot of length behind the rear axle but behind a gasser with a longer overhang it really could be a real challenge.

Unless it does something to beef up the hitch it is an extension and that will reduce the acceptable tow capacity for the car way below acceptable.

How much "float" do they have to avoid bottoming out? Again...a gasser's longer overhang could make this untenable. HOWEVER...to be fair...it appears many gasser hitches are higher above the ground and maybe that translates into some kind of way to avoid this problem.
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Old 02-23-2016, 11:19 AM   #17
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Head Games,
I'm rather interested in your solution to both carry and tow. I've a couple of question I hope you can help with, however. 1) Does the engine heat from the motorhome cause any problems--it is near impossible to stand behind our rear radiator with the coach running on a hot day? 2) With the tow hitch's pivot point farther from the coaches rear axle is there a significant turning/tracking adjustment? Thanks for your thoughts/experience. Dan
BounderDan,
I was concerned about that heat situation when I setup our coach with the Hydralift too. While the radiator is somewhat close to the actual back of the coach, there's still a fair distance to what would be carried back there. I designed and installed all the metal bracketry that held the Hydralift on ours. And, I knew way in advance of the "canteliver" weight effect factor. So, I put that lift as humanly possible to the rear of the coach as I could get, still thinking about the heat factor.

But, when it was all said and done, I put the bike on the lift and drove around. I would stop and, using a heat gun, check components on the bike, namely much of what's called the "Tupperware" (i.e. all the plastic body work on the bike) and see just what temp all that was running at vs what it started at, at the beginning of the drive. Yep, it certainly raised in temp a bit but, not to any critical state. So, I was happy with what I found.

Now, as for the turning situation while having a Hydralift on the back. I was concerned about that too. So, when it was all installed and done and, the bike was on the lift. I hooked up our Jeep to be towed and, put my son and his fiance in the Jeep so he could observe the close proximity to the Hydralift platform as I turned, entered and exited dipps, dips AND turns, and all that.

It was close when I did a dip and turn at the same time but, I had a remedy for that. I was not using my Ready Brake actuator at the test run time. So, when I installed the Ready Brake actuator, that gave me an additional 14"-16" of clearance between the lift platform and the front grill/hood of the Jeep. All was well.

Another item you may or may not be interested in is, I designed that mounting system so that, that lift could be completely removed in just under 5 minutes. I installed quick disconnect hydraulic fittings in the hydraulic line between the pump and the lift. I also installed what's called "Weathepak" electrial connector in the 12V electrical line.

Now, when it came time to disconnect that lift, it was simple. I'd lower the lift onto a Harbor Freight polyurethane furniture dolly. Then, I'd disconnect both the hydraulics and the electrics and, undo the clamps that held the lift to the coach. Then, I'd lift it off it's cradles and, set that section on another dolly. All I'd do at at that point is, roll the lift out of the way and, into its parking place while not on the coach. DONE!

I set that lift up like that so that maintenance could be performed or, repairs could be performed without that lift in the way. Waaaaaaaaaay nicer than trying to work around it. Anyway, just some thoughts for you.
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Old 02-23-2016, 05:54 PM   #18
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Guys thanks great info. I have been doing some research as well and nope not gonna happen. Looks like there will be rental bikes (HD's) in my future. After the first 6 months or so we will settle back down and I'll be towing the bikes instead of a Ford Flex.

Doing final load up of the outlaw for this weekends push off to our non brick and mortar life. Hope to see you all Out on the road.
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:44 PM   #19
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Head Games,
I'm rather interested in your solution to both carry and tow. I've a couple of question I hope you can help with, however. 1) Does the engine heat from the motorhome cause any problems--it is near impossible to stand behind our rear radiator with the coach running on a hot day? 2) With the tow hitch's pivot point farther from the coaches rear axle is there a significant turning/tracking adjustment? Thanks for your thoughts/experience. Dan
Sorry BounderDan, but that is not my setup. It is a screen shot of cruiser lifts website.

I intend to add the swivel wheel 58dw to my new fifth wheel at some point in the next year or so, but don't have it yet.

Wish I could be more help.
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