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Old 06-27-2011, 01:57 PM   #29
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Hey dunner
What year is your mh. I have towed my Sandrail(1100 pds) and my rockcrawler(4000 pds) on my 2200 pd flat bed trailer(not at the same). My mh pulls them fine. But if you have a 4r100 that is the weak link not the engine.
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Old 06-27-2011, 02:02 PM   #30
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To my understanding the gas/diesel debate holds far too many variables to ever realistically be settled. For the most part it does come down to $$. If you spend little you will get less performance, less ride quality, less size. One item that gets excluded from the discussion is that Diesels are typically built specifically to be very heavy over hi way haulers. Gas units are heavy trucks or vans that have far different chassis and suspension.
I grew up in gas units over the last 35 years but have been in a diesel for the last 4. I remember clearly taking over the controls from my dad when I was 18 and driving in the mountains in an old "Edson" built on a van chassis - i thought we all might die! The diesels sure handle great even in strong side winds.
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Old 06-27-2011, 02:36 PM   #31
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carstud, If my sig doesn't show up, it's a 2004 National Sea Breeze with the Ford F53 and a 4 speed auto. Don't know the mode number of the trans. Is this a weak tranny?

According to this chart, the 4r100 was used in the 7.3 from 99-03.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...chart32308.pdf
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2004 32' National Sea Breeze 1311 Class A on a F-53 Chassis, CHF, TST TPMS, 5Star Tune.
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Old 06-27-2011, 04:45 PM   #32
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Dunner yes it is a 4r100. They are used behind the diesel but they have a different case and 6 gear planetaries that are stronger. The weak link is the trans. Mine went out at 52k when my overdrive planetary locked up . Installed a 20k unit from a 4x4 2004 excursion since it is the same transmission. I took the used trans apart and installed the sonnax sure cure sc-4r100hd reconditioning kit to help cure some of the known weak spots. When I got my mh it shifted like a car not a 12k mh so I think that lead to a early failure. I recommend the 5 star or similar tune that can fix the overly soft shifts and make the trans last longer. Also a trans temp gauge is a good idea. Mine runs 165 to 195 and my sensor is in the pressure port. I also have the trick flow aluminum deep sump pan for extra capacity and cooling. I spent about a 1k on the used trans and installed my self so not bad for trans replacement cost wise.
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:02 PM   #33
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Should I tweak my 5 Star Tuner to max shift pressure or firmness or just use the tow tune? I now have 15k on it.
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:22 PM   #34
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Dunner I think you are probably ok with any of 5 stars tuning settings for the transmission. But the firmer shifts are better. Less slippage means less heat and longer transmission life. I did not have 5 star change my shift pressures since I changed them on the mechanical side and only did one tune. I would go with what feels best to you for your driving style as far as there tunes. They should have already fixed the soft shifts in there tuning software.
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:26 PM   #35
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Ok, It's only me and the dog, so it doesn't matter to me how hard it shifts. Will leave the fine tuning alone for now though.
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:46 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Dunner View Post
So, does that mean I'm going to wear out my V-10 towing a 20' enclosed with a 1900# sandrail and support gear?
Doubtful...

I have an 18' open car trailer I pull with a 1999 V10 and a #3,000lb Mustang drag car on the trailer. If I hit a big hill it slows it down a little and the V10 likes to rev but it does just fine.

I have pulled that same car home from the track once in a buddies loaded enclosed car trailer that probably weighed between 10 and 11K pounds. It pulled well but the big hill between the track and home I probably crested at 25-30mph.

Dont let these folks scare you, you'll be just fine!
Chris
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:57 PM   #37
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Thanks. I don't advocate towing with an auto, but have no choice. All opinions are welcome.
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