Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-08-2016, 03:49 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 242
Pace Arrow 37C Gas Rear Differential

2006 Pace Arrow 37C - We dropped off our Class A Fleetwood Pace Arrow (Gas powered) to Oregon LT TRUCK and RV in Medford OR for an oil change and some other minor repairs after a 3000 trip. Gave them a list of what we wanted inspected/completed.

A week later, we called to inquire how everything was going and when we could get our rig back.

We were told that they discovered a problem with our rear differential, which the mechanic discovered when he had the engine running and he then walked to the rear of the rig and heard a suspicious noise coming from the rear (which we'd never heard).
He took an oil sample and it "has chunks of metal in it", so they'll need to open and tear down the rear differential to find the problem, and, hopefully, only need to replace the affected parts.

There's also a rear interior wheel/axel seal leaking that needs replacing, which may/may not be related to the differential issue, as well as an exterior seal leaking on same axle (an easier repair they said).

As they had our rig since 27June, and had not yet started addressing either the seals or rear differential issues, we decided to pay for work completed and take our rig home for now, which we did on Wed. of this week. We made an appt on 8 Aug to have them work on the seals and differential.

Would like to hear from other Class A owners, esp. '06 Pace Arrow 37C (38ft) re this potential rear differential problem. Anybody else experience this problem? Rig has 15K on odometer.

Until we took the rig in for simple maintenance, it was running fine with no discernible loud noise from the rear differential.

This could potentially get expensive - how do we know if this is a "legit" problem that needs repair?

We've hadn't had any previous issues with Oregon LT TRUCK and RV repair work, but since purchasing the rig in March '15 have only needed routine maint./repairs.

Thanks in advance,
Jim&Susan
Merlin OR
__________________

__________________
meant2shop is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 07-08-2016, 04:48 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
BFlinn181's Avatar


 
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 14,725
I assume they had the rig on a lift to spin the rear wheels? A differential wouldn't make noise with wheels on the ground parked. With road and engine noise it's not surprising you didn't hear it. If it was a failing pumpkin, I'd think you'd hear it magnified through the drive shaft. I had one go bad in a camp bus, it was so loud it caused a stampede at a pig farm I passed!

I'm also guessing it's a Ford Chassis? The leaking rear seal could be an indication of differential problems. If you crawl under and pull the plug on the diff and catch the gear lube in a basin, you could determine yourself if there's metal in the oil. Look up what your differential should be filled with and get enough on hand to refill. I had a leaking seal at the rear axle after a brake job, I didn't want to run it out while on a trip to Maine so I added gear lube each day to be sure before I could get the original shop replace the seal.
__________________

__________________

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
BFlinn181 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 04:54 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 271
I'm struggling to figure out how he "diagnosed" the issue. The tires would need to be off the ground and the drivetrain moving (running or not) for him to "hear" anything, but you post doesn't indicate that.

Rear ends (ring and pinions) are robust items and very rarely cause any issues in most applications. Unless the seals were so bad or the gasket on the center section leaking, the gear set should not have any issues. With the leaks, it is possible although there should still be a significant amount of oil in the center section as the axle tubes sit at center. I would almost venture to say that the sign of leakage caused the tech to "hear" the "issue" but I could certainly be wrong.

Hopefully it is a legit diagnosis.
__________________
head gamez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 05:00 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 73
This diagnosis out-of-the-blue concerns me as well. If you do drain the lube drain it across a strong magnet. If there is anything there the magnet will look like a furball when you are done. If it comes out clean ask if the fluid was changed while they were working diagnosis.
__________________
2001 Damon Challenger, 7.4l gas

The normally frozen tundra of the Thousand Islands area in NY.
bigjim1959 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 05:10 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 524
I had the rear diff go in my 88'ish Chevy P30 Winnebago. Lot's of metal chunks. Best advice is drain the oil and look for chunks but it sounds like they already did that so at this point I think you'll need to have it pulled apart and inspected. If it is going south you don't want to be out on the road when it happens. On mine one of the diff spider gears failed and took out the ring and pinion with the debris.
__________________
2014 Southwind 32VS
2013 Nissan Xterra PRO-4X\2013 Honda CRV AWD
2015 Polaris RZR XP 1000\2014 KTM 350EXC
PbdBlue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 05:26 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
jacwjames's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 4,311
I would suggest that you arrange to be there when they pull the cover off the differential to look at the condition. If it only has 15K miles on it and you didn't hear anything unusual or feel anything unusual I am skeptical the ring and pinion are out
__________________
Jim J
2002 Monaco Windsor 38 PKD
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/5.7 Hemi
jacwjames is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 06:29 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: st.charles mo.
Posts: 1,161
I would get another openion.
__________________
speed racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 10:48 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 242
Many Thanks for replies.

We don't know if they had our RV up and tires off the ground to determine a problem WRT our differential - they never said they did and we didn't think to ask at the time.
We have a GMC W22 Workhorse engine - no problems since purchase.
Yes, we are going to get a second opinion.
As we stood at the front counter, they directed our attention to a glass sitting on a table in the mechanic's area about 20 ft in front of us. It appeared to be filled with oil. They said that was the oil sample they got from the differential with metal pieces in it, though never brought it to us for our inspection.
When we arrived, we noticed our rig was parked in the fenced storage compound. They planned on it tsking another week and a half at least to get to it to I get into the differential since our original appt didn't include this "new" problem, we were unaware even existed. We didn't want them to have our RV for almost a month, so we decided to pay for completed repairs and take it home.
As a side note - when we dripped the rig off, I calked them to advise that there was food in the freezer and refrigerator. Propane tank was full. I said pls leave the refrigerator on propane as we don't want food to spoil. Asked if that was OK and Reply was "No problem". Drove by to check on rig over 4th of July weekend and found it parked in locked storage area. When I called to check on status of repairs after the holiday weekend, the gal went out and checked the refrigerator and came back and told me the refrigerator was off and everything in freezer/fridge "is warm".... We were not happy. So that's when we drove to the place to check on the rig. Was told the propane was off "because the house batteries were dead" from it sitting so long.
Claimed no shore pwr available.

When we entered the rig, the stench from the refrigerator was overwhelming and all the fish, pork, shrimp, ice cream...everything had spoiled and wreaked! What a mess!! Lost about $100 in food. No offer of reimbursement. Hubbie says when he first entered the rig at that time, he first checked the status of house batteries on the panel. It indicated each had at least 12 amps; fully charged is 12-14.
Somehow, the refrigerator was turned off while there, causing the spoilage. Refrigerator was on when we dropped the rig off to them. Lesson learned - take all food out before taking rig in for repairs. You never know how the repairs will really take, etc, etc.
__________________
meant2shop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2016, 06:23 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
vettenuts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,344
Not sure how far you are from Brazels but I would take it there for another opinion. However, first sample the oil. I can't imagine how that could happen in 15K miles unless it was out of oil but that doesn't sound like it was the case.
__________________
2005 Newmar Kountry Star 3742 - Gas
ACME Eze Tow Dolly
2008 Chevy Malibu Toad
vettenuts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2016, 07:15 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
jacwjames's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 4,311
Another issue is that you only have 15K miles on your rig and it probably never had a rear differential oil change.

It is possible that there could have been metal in it from when it is new, this is not uncommon, the metal migrates to the bottom of the oil sump.

I'd get a 2nd opinion.
__________________
Jim J
2002 Monaco Windsor 38 PKD
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/5.7 Hemi
jacwjames is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2016, 08:53 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
BFlinn181's Avatar


 
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 14,725
The low mileage of the RV doesn't mean the diff couldn't be bad. Setting up the preload, backlash, and other close tolerances could have been off since assembly. Failure of a component is also not out of the realm of possibilities. I've had rear ends fail, a used one installed, and then had it fail because of improper set up.

Getting the oil professionally analyzed would be a first step in diagnosis. I'd also ask to have the noise demonstrated that brought the problem to the mechanic's attention. After those things have been done, then you'll have to decide if you want the present shop do the work, (if it needs to be done) or go somewhere else.

I'd never leave food in the refrigerator for a couple of reasons. First, unless you're sure their going to do the work quickly, the discharge of the batteries would be an issue. Second, putting the vehicle in a garage with the burner on isn't safe. Third, if the repair is going to take many days, the food is going to expire even if the refrigerator continues to work as it should.
__________________

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
BFlinn181 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2016, 09:11 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
CJ7365's Avatar
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 1,344
Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
I would suggest that you arrange to be there when they pull the cover off the differential to look at the condition. If it only has 15K miles on it and you didn't hear anything unusual or feel anything unusual I am skeptical the ring and pinion are out
There is no differential cover on a W22 chassis diff, only drain plugs.


The recommended drain and refill for the diff on the workhorse chassis is at 250,000, or if it is contaminated by water, sand etc......As per Workhorse manual pg 179


I would think that a W22 Chassis with 15,000 would not require a diff oil change unless it is contaminated
__________________
2005 Tiffin Allegro Bay 37DB
W22 Workhorse Chassis 8.1 Flat Towing a 82 Jeep CJ7
CJ7365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2016, 09:22 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
OLYLEN's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Olympia, Wa
Posts: 2,050
If the shop has a good reputation I would go with the rear end repair. If not get a second opinion. Chit happens, I had a wheel stud replaced and ended up wit a full rear end brake job. They showed me the parts and was sure I did the right thing. You should see grease leaking on the offending wheel and may be in for a brake job also if the grease has gotten to the shoes. If the grease level was low over heating could cause a failure but not to the point of the rear end howling which is an eminent catastrophic failure.

LEN
__________________
2004 Clss C 31' Winnebgo
OLYLEN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2016, 09:34 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Tom N's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Pond Piggies Club
Appalachian Campers
Mid Atlantic Campers
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Sarver, PA/Crystal River, FL/Shelocta, PA
Posts: 4,587
Ask to see the oil sample with chunks with metal in it. This had to be a visual analysis because there was not enough time to send the oil sample to a lab for an analysis.

I think all normal differential oil would have traces of metal in it.
__________________

__________________
Sarver, PA/Crystal River, FL/Shelocta, PA FMCA 335149 W3TLN
2005 Suncruiser 38R W24, no chassis mods needed 2013 Honda Accord EX-L 2008 Honda Odyssey EX-L

Tom N is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
class a, gas



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rear differential fluid change captpar Freightliner Motorhome Chassis Forum 16 10-04-2008 04:45 PM
Sightseer rear differential - last update! Richard 34A Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 2 07-13-2007 12:58 PM
Excessive metal shavings in Freightliner Rear differential Bassman MH-General Discussions & Problems 4 12-29-2005 10:14 AM
Rear Differential, how much lube? smlranger Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 9 12-20-2005 02:03 AM
2003 GMC 3500 rear differential rjd Trailer Towing and Tow Vehicles Discussion 8 12-08-2005 03:03 AM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:46 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.