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Old 11-06-2014, 12:29 PM   #1
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Class A leveling Question

I would like to know what the members do if the spot your in isn't quite level and the leveling system reaches it's limit.
I'm thinking about making some boards to put under the pads.
I tried the plastic square ones but they squashed and didn't work to well.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
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Old 11-06-2014, 12:32 PM   #2
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solid pieces of 2x12. Look for grain lines running across the board not vertical.
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Old 11-06-2014, 12:51 PM   #3
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I carry 6 pressure treated 2x6 pieces about 3' in length, and always put a board under both of the dual tires (on the same side). I place square boards under the leveling jacks. I have seen guys that attach handles, or staple nylon ropes to assist with sliding them out from under the coach. I am still looking for the perfect way. . .

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Old 11-06-2014, 01:05 PM   #4
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I screwed several 1 ft pieces of 2 by 8s together and slide them under the jacks. I put drawer handles on mine and painted them red. I use them all the time. When the jacks aren't extended all the way the MH seems more stable.
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Old 11-06-2014, 01:34 PM   #5
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I use 4X6 pressure treated lumber about 10 inches long. I also stapled some nylon rope that I can hook with the awning rod to get them out from underneath. I use them all the time even when the site is level. I don't like fully extending the jacks, maybe just me.
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Old 11-06-2014, 01:34 PM   #6
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I have been wondering this also. In the state park I am in right now most of the pads are 12 to 18 inches out of level. I don't believe I would want to build wood platforms that high. I use the plastic ones if the pad is about 6 to 8 inches out of level under my tires. The manufacturer of these recommends no more than 5 levels of them. I also use 4" thick pads under the jacks. I don't want to lift my tires off the ground.
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Old 11-06-2014, 01:53 PM   #7
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I use 2 24" 4x4 per jackstand. Eye screws in one end, and tie both together with a 6' length of rope. The rope laying out makes it easy to remove the lumber after retracting jacks, especially if buried in mud or dirt.

I also have two pieces of 2x10x24 that I can lay on top, if needed. Put all of the pieces together, that would provide about 9" of height on a side or front/back.
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Old 11-06-2014, 01:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rumrunnerxx View Post
I use 4X6 pressure treated lumber about 10 inches long. I also stapled some nylon rope that I can hook with the awning rod to get them out from underneath. I use them all the time even when the site is level. I don't like fully extending the jacks, maybe just me.
The awning rod! Excellent. . .

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Old 11-06-2014, 02:08 PM   #9
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Years ago I took some 2" X 12" boards, cut it into 12" X 12" sections, put them cross grain to each other and screwed and glued them together. Then I drilled holes in each corner so I could use the awning rod to move them. Made 4 of them, they worked fine for years but finally started breaking. So earlier this year I bought more 2" X 12" boards and some 5/8" plywood. Cut more 12" X 12" pieces and glued and screwed one plywood piece to each side of the 2" X 12" and again drilled holes to use the awning rod to move them. Now I need to pain them like I did the first ones.
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Old 11-06-2014, 02:13 PM   #10
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I cut some 2" X 12" pressure treated wood in to 12" squares and I attached cheap plastic cutting boards to each side. They end up being about 2 1/2" high and the plastic cutting boards keep them from splitting. I attached a screw eye to each block and use the awning rod to position and retrieve them.

I also bought some stall mat and cut it into 12" squares. It is made from recycled tires and is 3/4" thick. A 4' x 6' piece can be bought for about $48 and you can make 24 - 12" squares out of it.
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Old 11-06-2014, 02:17 PM   #11
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I try to avoid any places that I have to level my MH that much. I have driven my wife crazy by driving to a few different campsites to find one fairly level. I put the pads under my jacks anytime we are on a dirt or rocky surface. I have put the front tires up on two levels of pads a couple times with no problems, but I won't take the front (or rear) tires off the ground, I think that is way too much stress on the jacks.

I also find a fairly level spot and then put my jacks down using the manual button rather than the auto level, I seem to get a better level and it doesn't bounce the MH around when I do it myself. I had one CG Host get a little upset when I wanted to move due to a leveling issue, but then again he didn't pay for my MH or any of the maintenance it may need by overleveling it. Ironically he came by a few hours after we were set up in another campsite and apologized, then he told me "everyone complains about that site" refering to how out of level it was.
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Old 11-06-2014, 02:17 PM   #12
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I'm in construction. .. i have 12" x 18" pieces of 1-3/4" LVL material...

Won't split, does the job
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Old 11-06-2014, 02:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
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I'm in construction. .. i have 12" x 18" pieces of 1-3/4" LVL material...

Won't split, does the job
Wonderful, aren't they? I sprayed them with some any color spray paint I had left over in the paint locker. A staple part way into each side so the awning rod can pull them out. I'd had 2x12 splitting all the time, but this stuff is TOUGH!
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Old 11-06-2014, 03:41 PM   #14
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Class A leveling question

I screwed a 2 x 12 piece to pressure treated wood onto a 2 x 24 piece to create a "step up" levelng board of two different heights. You can drive up onto the first section for a small increase or the second for a bigger lift. I always try to level the best I can with my boards first, then engage the leveling system with blocks under the jacks to compenstate for the leveling boards I drove on. I use the automatic leveling system alone if its a minor correction thats needed. I dont want to lift any of the tires off the ground ever. Your back tires/duals have the parking brake on them. I use manual leveling to get the coach as level as as I can without lifting tires off the ground.
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