Class A maintenance

[pasdad1]

Originally Posted by awol50

I have had air filters in some of my cars that I drive little that might get changed at 5 years. They don't "break down". Where do some people come up with saying stuff like that?

Cars don't always equate to a big diesel motor in an RV.... some RV air filters have been known to ingest water during a hard rainstorm while engine is running. Also a big diesel sucks in MUCH more air than a gas engine in a car. The water doesn't help, and the glue that holds the filter together weakens over time. Total engine destruction is the consequence if the filter tears and lets in dirt. Doesn't seem financially worth the gamble when an engine rebuild costs so much.

[wwobrian]

Thanks for all the input. I went on line and found a SPEEDCO nearby. I will try them out on my next yearly maintenance. They use BALDWIN filters. Is that a good filter for the engine as well as the generator? I mean I would think so, but I've never heard of them.
Just asking.

[Steve Ownby]

Originally Posted by wwobrian

Thanks for all the input. I went on line and found a SPEEDCO nearby. I will try them out on my next yearly maintenance. They use BALDWIN filters. Is that a good filter for the engine as well as the generator? I mean I would think so, but I've never heard of them.
Just asking.

I use Fleetguard filters on my Cummims. They have Fleetguard also but don't always have the correct one at all locations. If you call the location you are going to use in advance, they will have the filters you need. I have found them to be very accommodating. Until recently, they would allow you to go down into the pit & observe but that has now changed. I'm guessing they had an incident.

[jimmy braden]

I stocked up on fg filter s off ebay,

And wix makes good but <$ filters than onan

[Ludmilla]

There are a lot more maintenance items you should be taking care of. For example, there is an air dryer, the transmission fluid, etc. You need to get a full set of maintenance manuals for the chassis, engine and transmission. I created a spreadsheet that had every maintenance item and how often. I have a column for each year and mark off when they items are done. The basic annual work can be done at Speedco but there are many other items that they will not do.

[ALPINEER]

I do all of my own maintenance. My problem has been remembering when certain things need to be done. I started using a cloud based program that tracks "everything" and sends you reminders of when maintenance items are due to be done. "maintain my rv" is only $40.00 per year and gives me total piece of mind. I learned my lesson when my generator maintenance ran past due by 75 hours and I didn't realize it.

[wwobrian]

Originally Posted by Ludmilla

There are a lot more maintenance items you should be taking care of. For example, there is an air dryer, the transmission fluid, etc. You need to get a full set of maintenance manuals for the chassis, engine and transmission. I created a spreadsheet that had every maintenance item and how often. I have a column for each year and mark off when they items are done. The basic annual work can be done at Speedco but there are many other items that they will not do.

Where can I go to get "maintenance or service" manuals? I have tried unsuccessfully to obtain a service manual for my coach, but so far have struck out.

[jimmy braden]

the owners manual of my RR8S has lube points near the end.

[Steve Ownby]

Originally Posted by wwobrian

Where can I go to get "maintenance or service" manuals? I have tried unsuccessfully to obtain a service manual for my coach, but so far have struck out.

I put this generic maintenance schedule for a friend several years ago:

Complete base line service for Cummins diesel motorhome:

Engine: filters to be Fleetguard
1. Oil/filter
2. Fuel filters (2)
3. Coolant filter if equipped and test/ adjust SCA level if standard coolant. Change coolant @ 5 years. Add extender at 3 years if OAT type coolant.
4. Air filter if over 3 years old. Inspect plumbing between filter and turbo inlet for evidence of dust. Inspect CAC plumbing.
5. Inspect hoses & belts.

Transmission: filters to be Allison high capacity.
1. Change filters @ 36 months & top up.
2. Change fluid @ 48 months or test sample.
Always use TES295 fluid as approved by Allison.

Chassis:
1. Complete lube including lifting front axle from ends to unload king pins.
2. Including 3 zerks on steering column and one zerk on steering box.
3. Change Hydraulic filter & top up.
4. Change air dryer cartridge @ 2-3 years.
5. Grease front wheel bearings 3-5 years or change to oil hubs & inspect.
6. Change differential gear oil @ 3-5 years.
7. Inspect brake surfaces.
8. Inspect oil level tag axle hubs.
9. Inspect both chassis & house batteries. Make sure all connections are clean & tight. If flooded lead acid, check & top up with distilled water monthly.

Generator:
1. Oil/ filter
2. Fuel filter
3. Air filter
4. Perform valve lash, belt/ hose replacement and generator unit service before 2000 hours. Replace thermostat and coolant @ that time.

AquaHot:
1. Replace fuel filter
2. Replace burner nozzle
3. Exercise tempering valve.
4. Inspect coolant level at top of AquaHot unit and at expansion tank.

Inspect and clean all battery terminals.

[awol50]

Originally Posted by OLYLEN

Air dryer and air filter every 3 years. Air filters break down from age and one could ingest paper or dust a motor.

LEN

I don't know about that "injesting dust" thing from an air filter. I have a work truck that is 10 years old and only about 25k miles and still has the oem air filter. Looks almost like new and so why replace it?
I know a diesel 6.7 isb ingests more air than my work truck, but that would have no effect on breaking down, just getting dirtier faster. And the air filter inside the motor home is way more surface area than my work truck air filter.
But I will replace the motorhome air filter every three years if I am at or around the 25-30k point. Just a pain in the ass to do as you have to throw out the entire cartridge that it is enclosed in which is a shame.

[CampDaven]

Originally Posted by awol50

I don't know about that "injesting dust" thing from an air filter. I have a work truck that is 10 years old and only about 25k miles and still has the oem air filter. Looks almost like new and so why replace it?
I know a diesel 6.7 isb ingests more air than my work truck, but that would have no effect on breaking down, just getting dirtier faster. And the air filter inside the motor home is way more surface area than my work truck air filter.
But I will replace the motorhome air filter every three years if I am at or around the 25-30k point. Just a pain in the ass to do as you have to throw out the entire cartridge that it is enclosed in which is a shame.

If you Google "irv2 dusted motor" you will understand the topic better

[Big Oil Guy]

Originally Posted by wwobrian

.... They use BALDWIN filters. Is that a good filter for the engine as well as the generator? I mean I would think so, but I've never heard of them. Just asking.

I use Baldwin filters exclusively on my DP, including the diesel generator. My dad used them on our farm eqpt when I was a kid, and there is no other filter I trust more. After 60 years of using Baldwin filters, I've never known a piece of eqpt to fail, or have fuel or injector problems. Are they better than Fleetguard?.... I don't know, but consider them to be as good as anything else out there. They're not cheap, but I'm comfortable with them, and that's what everyone seeks to achieve!

If your unit sits for long periods, be sure to use some kind of fuel stabilizer. Also, use of a biocide will eliminate injector and filter problems. These additives work well and will prevent major fuel system problems.

[Pa Miller]

I change my oil and fuel filters at the same time , I would rather change my fuel filters at home than on the side of a interstate .... I carry two spare fuel filters and one oil filter....and a bottle of 911.

[big willie]

Originally Posted by awol50

I do question the need for fuel filters annually without regard for mileage. I drain 4 ounces of fuel from the sediment bowl into a glass cup after every trip and look for any water or sediment. Takes all of 5 minutes. Maybe there might be circumstances to deviate fro this but I have not had to. We use the rv regularly and store in an enclosed garage.

I agree on the rusty oil pan, however owning a diesel machine shop for years. I have seen fuel filters cause expensive problems. I wouldn't take a chance. Change fuel filters