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Weeki Wachee · 11-26-2018, 08:25 AM

Have a 2017 Jayco Alante 26X. Did the maiden voyage from Florida to NYC. Only issue seemed to be the 18 wheelers moving me around on the interstate. When I got home I did the CHF on the front sway bars, now I am trying to decide my next move. Looking at Roadmaster rear sway bars or Sumo shocks. Anyone with similar experience? I could use some input. Thks

Excesses · 11-26-2018, 09:04 AM

Although it affects mileage, how full was your water tank? A rear trac bar may assist. Were you towing?
The other answer may be, wherever possible, to get off the interstates and onto the secondary highways and other byways to avoid all of the heavy truck traffic.

We avoid interstates like the plague, and enjoy the views and lighter traffic.

Cheers

DJ

Mudfrog · 11-26-2018, 09:47 AM

I read replies from people stating they've had luck with aftermarket suspension products. No doubt these can help overall. My thinking though, a lighter rig like the OP's is going to get pushed around at times by trucks and crosswinds no matter what we do. This is something that pretty much comes with the territory!

BCam · 11-26-2018, 09:52 AM

I'm thankful that my 2002 Suncruiser 35U doesn't seem to have this problem and I have no suspension upgrades. As previously mentioned, being adequately loaded is a definite plus. I think many experience this on their drive home in a new rig when it's at its lightest.

If you really want to have "fun", try driving a 1970s VW Westphalia camper on the interstate.

MSHappyCampers · 11-26-2018, 10:10 AM

Hi !

Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

Congrats on the new rig! Have fun and keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

mre · 11-26-2018, 10:11 AM

Doesn't Jayco have J-ride that is suppose to eliminate swaying?

I had Sumo Springs on. Class that worked very well. I don't know if they have them for Class C. People also have good luck with Track Bars.

Waiter21 · 11-26-2018, 10:34 AM

Welcome to the Forum.

Quote:

When I got home I did the CHF on the front sway bars,

Why didn't you also do the rear CHF???

georgelesley · 11-26-2018, 10:51 AM

Do the rear CHF and put on a rear trac bar next. We have found that is all that was necessary. We do run a few lbs of air over the recommended.

DenverTransplant · 11-26-2018, 10:57 AM

I had a big problem with big rigs pushing my ACE 30.1 (F-53 chassis) all over the road. The magic bullet was a rear track bar that locks the frame to the axle. This prevents that big box on the frame from moving against the leaf springs. You can get massive tail wag, especially if you are like my rig where all the tanks are behind the rear axle. That tail wag drags you all over the road.

I also got the rig aligned (needed it as Thor piles a big box on the factory chassis and doesn't bother to re-aliign the chassis), installed a Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer, did the CHF front and rear and upgraded the shocks to Koni FSD's.

The rig drives pretty well and the push and suck of big rigs is almost entirely gone. Handles a lot better in the wind too. I still have more sway than I'd like on curvy roads. I'm pondering adding either Sumo Springs or bigger sway bars. I'm leaning towards the sway bars (sorry about the pun).

ThomB · 11-26-2018, 10:57 AM

I did these in this order:

CHF - It's free afterall. (shortly after getting the RV so don't know what affect it had really - I know it stiffened the rock out of my driveway for sure)

Rear Sway Bar. - About 6000 miles after leaving on our journey. Probably to date the best money we spent.
New front shocks - Bilstein (our chassis is a 2008 and 10 years was probably overdue) AND
Sumo springs all around (this was at about 12,000 miles into our trip). While this did help with some of the upper body roll, the bulk of the sway was gone after the sway bar install.

We are in a 33' Winnebago Vista 32K towing a Mini Cooper Roadster 4-down so results for you may be a bit different as I believe you may be on the slightly lighter chassis?

AKIQPilot · 11-26-2018, 11:26 AM

CHF front.
CHF rear is applicable.
Rear track bar

After that almost all tail wag from semis overtaking you will be gone.

To get rid of sway, front and rear antisway bars if you dont already have them.

To get rid of harshness from bridge expansions and broken pavement Koni FSD shocks.

Sumo springs to get rid of that last little bit of sway that the anti sway bars cant stop.

ThePowells · 11-26-2018, 10:50 PM

Welcome to the forum!!!

blueridge-fl · 11-27-2018, 06:00 AM

We added a Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer and rear roadmaster add-on sway bar (now 2 sway bars in the rear) and that took care of the problem. Prior to those mods our RV was down right dangerous to drive. Now, we still experience a little push from passing trucks but no worse than a normal vehicle does. Interesting side note; The smaller box trucks are way worse than the big rigs. They push an amazing amount of air for their size.

Waiter21 · 11-27-2018, 06:25 AM

I recommend doing the rear CHF before spending any money on any other aftermarket components. Verify the rear torsion bar bracket and bolts on the axle have not come lose. Newer F53's have a nasty habit of these bolts coming lose, falling out, then busting the bracket.. If it was mine, I'd remove and re-install the bolts with blue locktite and torque to 60 ft lbs.

Re-evaluate the handling after the CHF is completed, then go from there..