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Old 04-06-2013, 11:42 PM   #1
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coach battery

Is there anything special about changing the cranking batt out ie something to unhook or cut off?
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Old 04-06-2013, 11:53 PM   #2
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Just disconnect the negative post first.
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:59 AM   #3
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My starting batteries have several wires connected so I take a wire tie and bundle the negatives together and a second one for the positives. IF there are several wires it wouldn't hurt to take a photo before disconnecting.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:20 AM   #4
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Yes, take a digital picture, print it out and put it in a plastic protector. Use safety glasses for sure. Be sure the rv is not plugged in or running. If you have any battery cutoff switches use them too. In any case for safety wrap the positive lead in a rag so it does not contact anything improperly. Clean the terminals until they shine.

As suggested, tie wrap the wires on the positive lead so you don't drop one out of site. There are many issues on this forum that were solved by finding the missing wire.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:53 AM   #5
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Great advice so far. You probably also have a chassis battery cut off switch which you should turn off prior to starting the swap.

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Old 04-07-2013, 01:13 PM   #6
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While on this subject... Is it advisable to install a battery disconnect on both the engine start battery and the coach batteries? Or is there some reason why the coach batteries should remain on-line all of the time? I'm tired of too low or dead batteries when I allow the coach to sit for a while.
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:01 PM   #7
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While on this subject... Is it advisable to install a battery disconnect on both the engine start battery and the coach batteries? Or is there some reason why the coach batteries should remain on-line all of the time? I'm tired of too low or dead batteries when I allow the coach to sit for a while.
I believe it is. Our DP came that way from the factory. No reason I can think of to need the chassis batteries always connected.

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Old 04-07-2013, 04:48 PM   #8
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Thanks Rick... Safe travels...
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:54 PM   #9
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Where do you park it? If at home, I'd pay someone to install the appropriate electrical box so that you can plug it in when necessary. Even with the disconnect switch off, the coach batteries will run down over a few weeks of sitting. I also got tired of having to run the generator or the engine every so often when not using the coach for a while. I had a 50 amp box installed because I park the rig next to my house. It cost $205.00. I figure I will return that investment in jest one season without paying for a storage place or even the cost of winterizing. I have a house type heat pump unit in the basement that keeps everything as warm as I need to all winter long. Works for me.

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Old 04-07-2013, 06:10 PM   #10
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While camping the chassis battery operate the window shades, elec step, and awning and who knows what else on our rig. The little wires keep drawing power even when the battery disconnect is engaged for some safety items. I wonder what the actual drains are when not using the disconnect. Obviously something is drawing power but what?
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:16 PM   #11
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While camping the chassis battery operate the window shades, elec step, and awning and who knows what else on our rig. The little wires keep drawing power even when the battery disconnect is engaged for some safety items. I wonder what the actual drains are when not using the disconnect. Obviously something is drawing power but what?
on mine it was inverter drawing big power. it's a good practice to turn it off while not on the road (currently i have a roof solar system so my batteries are always full).
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:22 PM   #12
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I need to look into a good solar unit. I wonder how costly that will be???
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:18 AM   #13
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I need to look into a good solar unit. I wonder how costly that will be???
if you are savvy in buying components and good on diy, you can set up a decent system about 300w for $600-800.
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