Community Forums

kchadw1944 · 03-05-2011, 11:20 AM

I had a battery explode and removed and replaced it . Now I can't seem to get any power through the system..can't start the generator or anything..I connected a test light and grounded it to a ground other than the battery negative post...I get a light when I touch the point to the ground post and nothing when I touch the positive post..this happens on both batteries together, or individual...chassis battery is normal...power when I touch the postive with it grounded..

Can someone out there tell me my problem ???? or should it be this way...thanks..

Ken C.

trainsktg · 03-05-2011, 11:25 AM

When the battery exploded, did it kill any fuses or fusible links? I'd pull 'em and check 'em for continuity.

Keith

GaryKD · 03-05-2011, 11:35 AM

Hi kchadw1944,
My assumption is you are posting about the coach batteries. Find the 12 VDC fuse panel for the coach. Take a meter reading at the incoming 12 VDC line. Got 12 VDC? If no, then trainsktg's post should provide the solution.

Clay L · 03-05-2011, 11:57 AM

Since you get a light when you touch the negative terminal, I suspect the negative terminal is not grounded.

Do you have two 12 volt batteries in parallel or two 6 volt batteries in series?
This is a diagram showing how they should be wired in either case.

Old Bounder · 03-05-2011, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kchadw1944

I had a battery explode and removed and replaced it . Now I can't seem to get any power through the system..can't start the generator or anything..I connected a test light and grounded it to a ground other than the battery negative post...I get a light when I touch the point to the ground post and nothing when I touch the positive post..this happens on both batteries together, or individual...chassis battery is normal...power when I touch the postive with it grounded..

Can someone out there tell me my problem ???? or should it be this way...thanks..

Ken C.

You should NOT get a light when testing between frame ground and the battery NEG post.
You should GET a light when testing between battery POS post and NEG post. -or-
You should GET a light when testing between POS post and frame ground.

Are you SURE you hooked the batteries back the way they originally were?

Unless there is a fuse in the NEG battery path (extremely unlikely) you should have gotten a light from your test (pos terminal to ground).

kchadw1944 · 03-05-2011, 04:59 PM

I've checked all this fuses and all are ok....positive terminal cables goes to intellitec disconnect system...negative cables to each other..I've isolated the intellitec disconnect system checked its fuses, checked starter solenoid, two inline fuses. It seems like there is a fuse somewhere that is blown...no interior lights, no generator, no nothing because no power coming from the batteries..and they are charged up....motor home startup battery is ok...and motor home runs...but the generator still doesn't start off of this battery either...I've checked the fuses and cbreaker on the generator too...

GaryKD · 03-05-2011, 05:07 PM

Hi kchadw1944,
It sounds like you have the basics checked. The only thing left to do is, with a meter, follow the power to each component until you loose it. I know it is a PITA, but as best I know there is no other way. This includes the coach "store" button/switch and it's relays.

Do you have 12 VDC power to the inverter?

offthewall · 03-05-2011, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loulong

You should NOT get a light when testing between frame ground and the battery NEG post.
You should GET a light when testing between battery POS post and NEG post. -or-
You should GET a light when testing between POS post and frame ground.

Are you SURE you hooked the batteries back the way they originally were?

Unless there is a fuse in the NEG battery path (extremely unlikely) you should have gotten a light from your test (pos terminal to ground).

If he's got two 6 volt batteries, he will get 6 volts from the negative of the first battery in series.

The question no one has asked is "How and why did your house batteries 'EXPLODE'?"

Pusherman · 03-05-2011, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clay L

Since you get a light when you touch the negative terminal, I suspect the negative terminal is not grounded.

Do you have two 12 volt batteries in parallel or two 6 volt batteries in series?
This is a diagram showing how they should be wired in either case.

Excellent diagram. Unfortunately I am not as graphically capable as Clay.

One recommendation on the 12V configuration: Attach your (+) cable from the coach to the near battery, and the (-) cable from the coach to the far battery (or the other way around). This makes both batteries work equivalently and extends the life of both batteries. Still a parallel connection. Still 12V.

When both connections come off 1-12V battery to the coach in a 2-12V battery configuration, that battery does most of the work. It will die sooner than the other battery.

Robert T · 03-05-2011, 06:42 PM

I have seen on some coaches the same problem as yours,I found that the circuit breakers flipped on the invertor or I also found that are numerous wiring harness plugs that are about 2.5 inches wide by 1/2 inch deep and height 1.5 inches when disconntected there will be another mini fuse inside the plug.

Wanabee FTer · 03-05-2011, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kchadw1944

I've checked all this fuses and all are ok....positive terminal cables goes to intellitec disconnect system...negative cables to each other.

This may sound silly but where is the chassis ground for negative battery connection? You mentioned negative cables are connected to each other so I assume you are running 12 volt batteries in parallel, but there must be a chassis ground hooked up to the negative battery post for the batteries to work. If there is no ground that would explain why your test light works from chassis to negative battery post.

bullheaded · 03-05-2011, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wanabee FTer

This may sound silly but where is the chassis ground for negative battery connection? You mentioned negative cables are connected to each other so I assume you are running 12 volt batteries in parallel, but there must be a chassis ground hooked up to the negative battery post for the batteries to work. If there is no ground that would explain why your test light works from chassis to negative battery post.

This is it......no ground to chassis.

hometool · 03-05-2011, 07:17 PM

i belive the problem is on the ground side his test light lights from ground to battery negitive post that in mho means open ground i would use the test light along along the ground path starting from b- battery post with test light cliped to a good ground when you find the place where the light dosen,t light you hav just passed the problem. a way to prove the problem would be to connect a jumper cable to battery b- and a known good ground if things start working you have a ground problem lee