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Old 07-19-2011, 09:05 AM   #15
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Something I just learned from the RV techs:

I chose the wrong battery for my RV's engine. Apparently a deep cycle dual purpose battery is ok for the coach, but a standard engine battery is best for the MH's engine. I have switched now from the Optima Blue top to the Red.
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:06 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Senior Chief View Post
An inexpensive way to avoid killing your batteries while in storage is to simply disconnect them.

You can also put an easy-to-use blade-type disconnect on the cable that goes back to the coach (or to the starter).

Or get a solar battery maintainer from Harbor Freight if you store outside.

All are cheaper than purchasing an extra battery.
Also, if you have RV storage that has electric, you can plug in a battery tender like classic car owners use.
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:30 AM   #17
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I have 2 coach batteries from Advance Auto parts, they were inexpensive and they seem to be holding since I bought them in Oct. and they still have a charge after coming out of storage. The engine battery for the Ford V10 is an optima BLUE top dual purpose battery. They use dry cel technology (NO water) and they have a 2 year replacement warranty. As a matter of fact, my Sightseer is in the RV dealer this week for some maintenance before our big trip. The Optima is bad, wont hold the charge, well 1 call to Advance Auto and the free replacement is waiting for me to pick up and bring to them. I have Optimas in both my cars as well as the coach. Very happy with them. The are a stout battery.

A comment on the Optima. it is not dry cell, it's maintenance free, also known as VRLA (Valve Regulated Lead Acid) in this case it's also AGM (Absorption or Absorbed glass mat) it does, indeed contain a liquid electrolytic of dilute sulfruic acid just like a flooded wet cell, slight difference in the chemistery though.

Second, it's less than 3/4 there, A Group 27 AGM, Flooded wet or Maintenace free OTHER THAN OPTIMA is about 100 amp hours at the 20 hour rate.. OPTIMA, per their web page, only 66, a very poor choice for house batteries.

Now, if you are going to slam over ruts, rocks, logs or waves.. Optima can take a lickin' and keep on tickin' as the watch commercical used to say, it will take a beating that will turn other batteries into junk... But it's a very poor choice for RV use. Expensive too, 2/3 the battery for 3/2 the price.
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Old 07-21-2011, 01:23 PM   #18
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It is Important to remember ALL batteries have an Internal resistance; That means when they are left with out a trickel charge they lose some of there Voltage. When my batteries are Full charge( slow charge, not fast high surface charge) they read around 14.4 Over a peroid of a couple days with nothing hooked to them they will drop to 12 volts.. Now keep in mind that each cell is 2.4 volts;; So at the 12 volt reading the battery Is NOT fully charged.The readings are based on a 12 volt battery. The voltage in a deep cycle and/or a starting battery is/should be the same. 12 volt == 14.4 Volts.. Life is good..
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:56 PM   #19
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We have four U-2200's and after nine years they are still doing pretty well even though we regularly take them down to less that 11 volts. By regularly I mean three times a day when boondocking. I have never run a desulfation charge on them but I did add a liquid desulfation chemical (Harbor Freight) to them about 5 years ago, then added 4oz of mineral oil to each cell. The oil cut way down on the amount of distilled water I have to add and the compartment and batteries stay almost totally corrosion free.
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Old 07-23-2011, 07:53 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
A comment on the Optima. it is not dry cell, it's maintenance free, also known as VRLA (Valve Regulated Lead Acid) in this case it's also AGM (Absorption or Absorbed glass mat) it does, indeed contain a liquid electrolytic of dilute sulfruic acid just like a flooded wet cell, slight difference in the chemistery though.

Second, it's less than 3/4 there, A Group 27 AGM, Flooded wet or Maintenace free OTHER THAN OPTIMA is about 100 amp hours at the 20 hour rate.. OPTIMA, per their web page, only 66, a very poor choice for house batteries.

Now, if you are going to slam over ruts, rocks, logs or waves.. Optima can take a lickin' and keep on tickin' as the watch commercical used to say, it will take a beating that will turn other batteries into junk... But it's a very poor choice for RV use. Expensive too, 2/3 the battery for 3/2 the price.

After some research I'd have to agree about Optima for the coach batteries and I have been most satisfied with the AutoCraft from Advance A.P. What is your opinion on Optima for the engine battery?
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Old 08-10-2011, 02:17 PM   #21
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Thumbs up Update

I went ahead and replaced the two T-15 6v with one large 12v from Advance Auto. About $90. Since I never boondock, I figured this would be ok. I did install a blade disconnect because I found that there was still a draw on the batteries (smoke/LP detectors, etc.) I have tried to resuscitate the T-105's, but haven't been successful. Thanks for all of the advice.
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Old 09-03-2011, 10:20 AM   #22
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Also, remember to turn off the antenna booster.. I never thought of that and couldn't figure why my batts "de-volted" so fast. Now, it's just the little ghost draws.. which don't really amount to a heck of a lot.
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