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Old 02-23-2017, 02:18 PM   #15
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Our diesel is supposed to be running when brining in the slides to keep the batteries from draining.

The only time ours won't start is when I forget to bring in the awnings. You might take them out an few inches and then bring them back in again.

Bill
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Old 02-23-2017, 07:26 PM   #16
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Thanks

At this point, I'm no longer thinking the slide out is causing the no engine crank issue. I'm starting to suspect the starter motor or solenoid.
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Old 02-23-2017, 08:16 PM   #17
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I m also having trouble starting our 02 HR Neptune. Take a look at this thread:

CLICK HERE
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Old 02-23-2017, 08:36 PM   #18
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If you can access the starter, use a multimeter (or a 12v light bulb with two alligator clips) to measure the voltage from the hot lead to ground on the starter(not the relay). Have someone attempt to start. If the multimeter shows 12v, or if the light bulb illuminates, you have power, but possibly not enough. If no 12v, or no light, then problem is "upstream". If you DO have 12v, or the light bulb illuminates, I would rap HARD on the starter with a hammer, but use the handle end, NOT the metal hammer head. If the engine now turns over, you have a sticking starter. Replace. If you DO NOT have 12v or the light bulb does not illuminate, I would turn on the ignition, and jump 12v hot lead to the starter. If it starts, the starter is probably good. Keep us posted.
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Old 02-23-2017, 08:41 PM   #19
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Yep, that is a good post and very helpful. Thanks
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Old 03-30-2017, 12:05 PM   #20
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Well, at last I got a chance to get under the engine and have my brother in law turn the key to just before starting and heard a few relays clicking by the trans.

I then had him turn the key. There is a piece of angle iron that has a relay and (+) power junction mounted to it. When turning the key to crank the engine, the relay clicked. Sounds good to me, but no starter function.

Then, I found a broken ground wire connection on the solenoid. There are a few posts for connections and this ground was all by itself.

It started raining right after I took the pictures and I ran out of time to do a repair.

I will be in Ohio again this weekend to repair this connection and I think it should start!!



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Old 03-30-2017, 01:08 PM   #21
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Yeah, I would take all those connections apart and hit them up with a wire brush, and then cost them with some batterry terminal protector
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Old 04-04-2017, 09:09 PM   #22
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I did do that on the starter and will be doing the power junction and relay this weekend. Don't need any more starting problems.
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Old 04-04-2017, 09:55 PM   #23
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Very good pictures,

I see in your picture an auto reset circuit breaker where the positive wires are connected, they are corroded, the end broken or burned off on what looks like the starter side solenoid, but it may be another solenoid I'm not clearly identifying. at solenoid is where you are disconnected, and why the starter will not work.

On the bottom is what we sometimes refer to as a secondary relay, it takes the high amperage the starter switch can't handle and provides it to the main starter solenoid.

You are hearing it click because it is working properly. The problem is at the cable end that connects to the starter solenoid, it's clearly broken off in your photo.

Looking at the condition of all this wiring, I would suggest replacement of all the cabling, the circuit breaker and the secondary solenoid.

Because your coach has been operated in a high salt environment, this is not an option if you want a reliable system.

The wiring corrosion problem is only partially visible, the rest is under the cover inside the cables.

If you have access to a person who can build up new cables for you, or you can do this yourself, I would suggest soldering the ends to seal them off from the outside, and then seal them with electrical tubing, not electrical tape.

Buying new cables won't give you the extra protection, but is the other option, and you can still do the modification to seal them if you wanted to.
In any case, after all the cables are installed and tight, cover the cable ends with spray paint, or battery terminal sealer.

Now you'll never have to deal with this again.

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Old 04-05-2017, 10:02 PM   #24
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I will at least for now fully disassemble all the connectors at the relay and power post, wire brush them, reassemble and spray them with the protecting agent. I will also get a price on that relay.

I also was able to change the oil/filter on the Onan QD 7.5 generator. Should be able to de-winterize the coach this weekend and get a list of pre season work to be done now that the weather has broken. One thing is for sure, these older coaches that are 10 years or older sure do need a constant touch.

I guess this is the difference between a $300 payment or a $1500 payment. The hassles are tough but sometimes it's a rewarding process to learn all this stuff.
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Old 04-05-2017, 10:15 PM   #25
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Something I didn't mention, you can also cover and seal in each one of these components, relay and solenoid completely using silicon sealer in your choice of colors.

This would allow you to eliminate those end caps you see in the relay picture. I would eliminate them, or fill them with silicon sealer and push on and completely over the terminal covering it with the sealer and keeping it from filling with water in the future.
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Old 04-05-2017, 10:31 PM   #26
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I would rather have to $300 payment, the maintenance is part of the fun to me.
But that's because I prefer and have the training to tackle issues such as the one you have.

If it's not too late, I'd like to add, use Liquid wrench on the terminals trying to soak them a little before you start removing them.

Just in case, this step my prevent you from breaking things that you are trying to save for now.

Please keep us posted on your work, I'm like a kid in a candy store when it comes to this stuff.

DTW
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