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Old 03-27-2016, 09:13 AM   #1
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Cold snap OPTIONS

OK cold weather coming our way mid 20's for a couple days/nights. We've already de-winterized and made one trip.

the easiest is to see if I can get back indoors where its heated, not sure how the property manger will take to moving things around again??

With that said do i put it in the drive way and run some heaters for those 2-3 days or

Winterize again this time just using air to blow out the lines and antifreeze in the drain traps?

your thoughts are appreciated

Thanks
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:28 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by cptdzl View Post
OK cold weather coming our way mid 20's for a couple days/nights. We've already de-winterized and made one trip.

the easiest is to see if I can get back indoors where its heated, not sure how the property manger will take to moving things around again??
With that said do i put it in the drive way and run some heaters for those 2-3 days or
Winterize again this time just using air to blow out the lines and antifreeze in the drain traps?
your thoughts are appreciated
Thanks
cptdzl
If my coach will see only a couple of mid 20's days/nights running my water heater AND my propane furnace with the thermostat set to 50 degrees F for those few days prevents freeze problems.
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Old 03-27-2016, 10:45 AM   #3
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I agree with running the furnace at 50 degrees. When we left our coach at Thompson, Manitoba and went to Churchill for 3 nights that is what we did. I set the thermostat to 45 degrees. It was in the high 20's (F).

If you are really worried, spend the night in the rig with the heat on.
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Old 03-27-2016, 10:46 AM   #4
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I don't mean to stomp on Mel's comments but I prefer a little more pro-active steps. My thoughts are based on what I think you are saying is that there will be a few hours of temps below freezing. If you are expecting day(s) long periods of freezing, then I suggest a few other things to consider.

As long as your coach has the ability to force warm air into the water bay, then you should be fine setting it to 50*. My coach has a switch to force air from the gas furnace into the water bay. Unfortunately, that switch is actually in the water bay and I have to go outside to turn it on. LOL As an alternative some folks put a small space heater or light bulb into the water bay. Just make sure you don't cook any PVC.

BTW, In some coaches the water bay is a separate heating zone. In turn the coach has some kind of propriety/programing in the system to monitor temps in the water bay and then keep it from freezing as long as you have the furnace on. I think that is common in newer coaches with hydronic heating.

Most of the rest of your plumbing will be in the area between the floor and the basement insulation and running the furnace as he said will keep those in good shape. One other SLIGHT concern might be if your kitchen and bathroom pipes that are above the floor are next to an outside wall. They should also be fine but it might not be a bad idea to open cabinet doors to make sure warm air from inside the coach circulates there.

As I see it, it is the water bay with the smaller water pipes that is most in danger because it and the pipes are more exposed to outside temps. OTOH, If you have a lot of water in your big water tanks they won't freeze for short exposures to freezing temps in those ranges. However, if you do have heating pads there is nothing wrong with turning them on "just in case".

As to running water to protect pipes...maybe, maybe not. Of course, if you have sewer connections it should be fine but I don't like the idea of running water in a closed tank. I would be sleeping in my coach if I did. LOL One other concern even with a sewer hook up is water freezing in the sewer hose. A slow drip of water can allow it to freeze in the sewer hose and then build an ice dam. Again, these could be extreme cases of bad luck but...
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Old 03-27-2016, 11:53 AM   #5
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I'm aboard right now in mid-20s with water in the system. Here's what I do in addition to comments by other posters
- Keep remote temp sensors in the water service bay and near the water pump
- At temps below 25 turn off the ice maker, drain the ice maker water line, turn off the water pump and open all the faucets
- At temps below 20 do as above and retract slides

The bottom-line for you, not being aboard, has to be what you're reasonably comfortable with - perhaps you should take 30 minutes and winterize the water system, pull the freezables out of the coach cabinets and consolidate in the center of the coach and leave a heat source running ... it would also be interesting if you could track your actual coach temps using this approach so you can begin to learn your coach's actual capabilities ...

That's my approach when not aboard - and still wanting a good nights sleep ...
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Old 03-28-2016, 08:16 AM   #6
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As to running water to protect pipes...maybe, maybe not. Of course, if you have sewer connections it should be fine but I don't like the idea of running water in a closed tank. I would be sleeping in my coach if I did. LOL One other concern even with a sewer hook up is water freezing in the sewer hose. A slow drip of water can allow it to freeze in the sewer hose and then build an ice dam. Again, these could be extreme cases of bad luck but...
We will allow a slow drip at the kitchen sink all night in addition to running the furnace, heated hose and small heater in water bay. We do it with gray tank closed. It has never added even a 1/4 tank. I would not be concerned with overfilling the tank (assuming you start with it empty). I am talking about a drip every two seconds or so, nothing faster.
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:08 AM   #7
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If running a slow drip I wouldn't be to concerned cracking open the grey tank valve so that can run a slow drip too. Its only water. X2 on putting a light bulb in the water bay, that should provide more than enough heat to keep things warm.
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:23 AM   #8
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I would blow out the lines and a bit of anti-freeze in the traps. Take maybe 30 minutes and a cup or so of antifreeze. Easy enough to refill the tank and purge air from the lines and be rolling on the next weekend get away.
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:38 AM   #9
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If you have access to reliable power, spread some trouble lights around...toilet, refer, sinks, water pump, etc.
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:41 AM   #10
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OP has a Winnebago Journey. The basement is enclosed. There are air ways behind/under cabinets that allow some passive heat from above. The water areas of the enclosed basement receive direct heat from the LP furnace. All that is the same on my coach. At a minimum, I would want the rig plugged in 15a power, leave the water heater on, LP furnace(s) on at 45-50 (mine has two furnaces) and lower cabinet doors open. I might also put an auto trouble light/can light/spot light etc in the water bay. My water bay is the only compartment with a thin plastic floor rather than thick wood w/carpet. I bought a can light with plug in cord on it at Lowe's for a few $. According to a wireless thermometer, it keeps that bay at 50-60 degrees when exterior temps are close to zero. (do NOT put an unshielded bulb anywhere -- it must have a heat resistant hood that prevents the bulb from touching anything)
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Old 03-28-2016, 11:29 AM   #11
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We keep our coach on a nearby storage lot (less than a mile from our "sticks and bricks" home). If/when we find ourselves facing a couple days of temps below freezing at a point that we don't want to fully winterize the coach (i.e., late in fall when we're still using the coach on and not quite ready to put it away for the winter / early in spring when we've already unwinterized and run into brief cold snap) - we simply drive up to the coach and turn on the Aquahot. Running the Aquahot (with the thermostat set so that the interior zones are set low (55...ish) and the "basement" zone set higher (65..ish) - doesn't burn much diesel or put much of a drain on the battery. If it suites my mood, I'll often call it a "vacation at home" and just spend the night in the coach on the storage lot.

I've also come to the realization that I can do a full winterization on the coach for less than $40 worth of pink antifreeze and about an hour's worth of effort. It's really not that big of a deal to unwinterize it for a weekend ... and then rewinterize it to put it back in storage for a couple more weeks if that's what the situation calls for.

I winterized at the beginning of November ... unwinterized for a trip to Florida in early January ... and then winterized it again upon our return in late February. I'm about to unwinterize it again for a short trip this coming weekend ... and will simply run the heat if necessary for anytime freezing is a concern during the early part of April.
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Old 03-28-2016, 11:50 AM   #12
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As stated, I have just left the propane furnace on 45 and left cabinets open...

and as a backup set the ags to come on in case the battery runs down when unplugged.
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Old 03-31-2016, 07:24 PM   #13
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I just ran into the same thing. Since I have to go away during the cold snap I quickly blew everything out with air. Keeping the heat on should be good for you though because it only seems to be a bit cold at night and then warm above freezing during the day. But if you do just use heat you will have to drain the ice maker line.


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