Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-25-2014, 07:21 PM   #15
Member
 
kyrv37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 45
Good advice
__________________

__________________
2004 Four Winds Infinity Class A 32r
Ford Chassis with Triton V-10
Viet Nam Vet 65-66, Big Red One, John & Linda
kyrv37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 03-25-2014, 08:37 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Graham, WA
Posts: 426
More concrete and a longer cover. Might be OK for now but the next one will surely be longer. Mine is 20X40 and was fine for our 32' TT. Now having it extended 8' to cover the 41' MH. Sun and rain come at angles, not just straight down.
Neighbor also having his extended to fit his new TT.
__________________

__________________
2006 Gulfstream Friendship G7, Cat C7 and Allison 6 spd
Honda VTX and Crusier Lift on the back
Blue Ox Aladdin, Brake Buddy, 2014 Chevy Equinox toad
Dennis4809 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2014, 09:15 PM   #17
Member
 
kyrv37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 45
I am having both sides put on carport all the way down. Both ends open, extra bracing and 12 gage post. I do not want a motorhome longer than what I now have. If I did it would not be over 37'. Will get some pricing on concrete but most likely now will go with the rock. Sounds like what I need in concrete will be more than I really want to pay.
__________________
2004 Four Winds Infinity Class A 32r
Ford Chassis with Triton V-10
Viet Nam Vet 65-66, Big Red One, John & Linda
kyrv37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2014, 09:35 PM   #18
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
Dutch Star Don's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moorpark, Ca.
Posts: 9,306
"kyrv37"........Do you do your own RV maintenance and servicing? If so, you'll regret using stone. It's a pain, literally, to work on stone.

A 4" concrete slab with a good sand base and rebar is plenty for what you want to do. The size slab you mention is 9 yards of cement. That is a truck load. Price out concrete in you area. Probably looking at $1000.00 in concrete and $2000.00 - $2500.00 for that job in today's market, depending on where you live.

You can also save some money by installing concrete runners, the width of the tires and then fill in around the runners with stone. If you use just runners, they'll need to be 6" deep.

Concretely is rough figured at length x width divided by 80 for a 4" slab.
__________________
Don & Mary
2014 Newmar Dutch Star - All Electric - 450 ISL
2016 GMC Canyon 4WD Crew Cab
Dutch Star Don is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2014, 09:36 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
djbmsu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Charlotte Harbor, FL
Posts: 1,806
You didnt mention yoiur location and the type of soil you are beginning with. For instance in Florida we can drive a 50,000 MH on grass and make only a small indention. Having said that proper preperation of your soil is most important. I would never do 4 inch under any circumstance. 6 in yes which is what most RV Parks do. We just did Pavers over compacted road grade gravel, then 4 inch of compacted paver sand and finally 3 in pavers. I park a Phaeton on it and after a year it looks perfectly flat.
__________________
Don and Nancy
[2014 40QBH Phaeton, 2015 Buick Enclave, 2yr old sisters Sara n Kaycee, Havanese, Two Segways
djbmsu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2014, 10:14 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
So Cal Roo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Monterey Park, Ca
Posts: 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyrv37 View Post
3/8" rebar set at 18" for both or only if you were going with a DP?
That would be for both.
__________________
So Cal Roo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2014, 02:32 AM   #21
Senior Member
 
Vsilvester's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 229
Here is what I did
Removed all topsoil and installed 12" of small processed gravel
Compacted gravel with large vibratory roller and then puddled with water from hose .
Then final graded with more gravel .
Then install wire mesh
Then poured 6" of fiber reinforced concrete
Then saw cut relief joints as needed as all concrete will crack so we install joints to tell it ware to crack !
I owner a excavating company so it only cost me material witch was around $3000
The labour would have run around $2500 more
Here are some pictures
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2494083064.jpg
Views:	127
Size:	229.2 KB
ID:	59235  
__________________
Vsilvester is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2014, 02:39 AM   #22
Senior Member
 
Vsilvester's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 229
One more pictures of pad
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3181674872.jpg
Views:	118
Size:	220.1 KB
ID:	59236  
__________________
Vsilvester is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2014, 08:11 AM   #23
Senior Member
 
wa8yxm's Avatar
 
Damon Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 22,821
I have to agree with the "Ask your supplier" there is concrete and there is concrete.. IF I were doing it I'd specify six inches.. but then I'm into over building.. I figure if it will hold 40 tons, it will hold 13. But the reverse,, Perhaps not so well.
__________________
Home is where I park it!
wa8yxm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2014, 08:29 AM   #24
Senior Member
 
ladagobago's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: DW Driver -Winter Englewood FL, Summer Willingboro NJ
Posts: 1,192
Blog Entries: 11
Where U

Quote:
Originally Posted by djbmsu View Post
You didnt mention yoiur location and the type of soil you are beginning with. For instance in Florida we can drive a 50,000 MH on grass and make only a small indention. Having said that proper preperation of your soil is most important. I would never do 4 inch under any circumstance. 6 in yes which is what most RV Parks do. We just did Pavers over compacted road grade gravel, then 4 inch of compacted paver sand and finally 3 in pavers. I park a Phaeton on it and after a year it looks perfectly flat.
X2 - My 35 X 45 patio is 4". My Driveway for the MH is 6" 5K mix. with mesh. you can also get concrete with fiberglass too. In any case I would not go with anything less than 6". Your local code may override you decision anyway. it is based on soil bearing, temperatures and other factors not attached to your wallet or non-engineer thought processes.

I can't imagine wanting to lay on wet soggy soil, stone or blacktop to do anything under an RV. Save your money for the right stuff. the work you will do to grade and install a crushed dust mix stone will cost a bunch of money as well so why not simply grade and stone for concrete. It is also a lot easier to find a lost nut, washer or screw that always ends up falling somewhere.
__________________
La Dagobago
99 36 FL Winne Chieftain 5.9 ISB Turbo Cummins DP, 24' box with 1972 V12 XKE Jag and HD Sporty Hobby of 1970's Suzuki dirt bike restoration. Visit my blog.
ladagobago is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2014, 09:25 AM   #25
Senior Member
 
montiem's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Jackson, Tn
Posts: 336
4" of concrete is sufficient with 6x6 10/10 wire, pouring 400# concrete. But the base for th e concrete is the key. Remove all the top soil, may need top go deeper but 12" with a good sand that will compact, in Tennessee we have red sand, when it sets and dry it is like concrete. If you don't have good sand you can back fill with limestone gravel, 33C would be the bet, it is small and will set up good. 33C has a lot of lime stone dust which acts like a binder. One thing make sure your area will drain, you don't want to have a pond on your base because it will penetrate the soil and make mud. When you get ready yo pour dig around the outside perimeter of the to the bottom of the limestone or sand, just turn the edges down and allow the concrete to be about 8" thick. As for steel you really do not need it, you could put two bars around the edge in the turn down about 4 " from the top but I would put the above mentioned wire.

Turn down edge, a true 4" all over, tight dry base and wire, 400 lbs. concrete
__________________
2009 Dutch Aire 4317
2009 FORD TARUS X
montiem is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2014, 10:45 AM   #26
Senior Member
 
Craigls2's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: WI
Posts: 271
I am not a concrete expert but will share my driveway experience. We had a concrete driveway put in 8 years ago. I told them we would park our MH on it and it had to handle a 35k lb MH. Contractor said he had a Safari and understood what we needed. I told him I wanted rebar in and he told me he would poor 5" of concrete with rebar and that would be more than enough. I wasn't home for the pod but my wife took pictures. He put down a loose wire mesh over the base and no rebar. Fast forward to now and we have several large cracks where we park the MH. I don't know if it's the lack of rebar, the thickness or the type but our driveway isn't holding up to the weight of our MH. I checked with the local RV dealership and they told me their service bay building has 9" of concrete.
__________________
2013 Fleetwood Discovery 40G / 2012 GMC Acadia
Craigls2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2014, 11:49 AM   #27
Member
 
BirdDoggin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North West PA
Posts: 83
Craigls2,

I am going to assume your concrete pad is in WI so you have quite a bit of rain with a lot of freeze and thaw cycles. Also, you did not mention how much soil was removed in addition to the 5" for the pad, so I am assuming none. My experience is you have a drainage/base problem and not a thickness,re-bar or mesh problem. The contractor should have removed at least another 2", but preferably 6" of soil, and put in stone and made sure that under the concrete there was proper drainage. 2" thick, 9" thick, re-bar, wire mesh, 3500# to 6500# concrete will all brake and crack and heave when just a small amount of water under the pad freezes. If your area in WI is heavy in clay, when the spring thaw comes that clay is more like a water bed than anything solid, the addition of re-bar and mesh or fiber will help, but over time it will all crack. Never underestimate the amount of damage a little water that freezes can do, especially over and over....
__________________
BirdDoggin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2014, 12:05 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
Craigls2's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: WI
Posts: 271
Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdDoggin View Post
Craigls2,

I am going to assume your concrete pad is in WI so you have quite a bit of rain with a lot of freeze and thaw cycles. Also, you did not mention how much soil was removed in addition to the 5" for the pad, so I am assuming none. My experience is you have a drainage/base problem and not a thickness,re-bar or mesh problem. The contractor should have removed at least another 2", but preferably 6" of soil, and put in stone and made sure that under the concrete there was proper drainage. 2" thick, 9" thick, re-bar, wire mesh, 3500# to 6500# concrete will all brake and crack and heave when just a small amount of water under the pad freezes. If your area in WI is heavy in clay, when the spring thaw comes that clay is more like a water bed than anything solid, the addition of re-bar and mesh or fiber will help, but over time it will all crack. Never underestimate the amount of damage a little water that freezes can do, especially over and over....
Our soil is indeed clay based and I don't really know how much soil was removed. Ignorance on my part led to a poor result.
__________________

__________________
2013 Fleetwood Discovery 40G / 2012 GMC Acadia
Craigls2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
R U an RV Mutant too? flaggship1 Just Conversation 72262 Today 05:49 PM
Best Practices ChiefJohn Excel Owner's Forum 420 05-30-2016 07:11 AM
Adding color to your concrete dukenrock Just Conversation 11 01-05-2014 08:26 AM
Advice on building an RV Carport TheFitRV iRV2.com General Discussion 18 10-04-2013 07:18 AM
Skid Wheels JRMEDPHYS Class A Motorhome Discussions 30 08-13-2013 09:34 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:33 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.