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Old 08-17-2013, 11:47 AM   #1
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Question Convert 30 Amp service to 50?

Is this possible?
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Old 08-17-2013, 11:57 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by beepaj View Post
Is this possible?
Given enough money, time and energy...I think so. Is it feasible? I don't think so.

I have heard of one work around for when on shore power. A separate 20 amp circuit is installed to run specific devices such as coffee and micro wave. When that is done a separate breaker is installed and they plug that circuit into a 20 amp outlet on the pedestal with the 50 & 30 amp outlets.

I'm no election but that would seem safe to do. Of course, that doesn't help if you don't have shore power.
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:01 PM   #3
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It is certainly possible. Whether it is hard/expensive or easy/cheap depends on exactly how your rig is now equipped. I'm not familiar enuogh with the electrical on your 99 Tropi-cal to guess which it is.

And depending onwhat you are trying to achieve, there may be simpler alternatives, such as the separate 20A feed for a rear a/c that Sky Boss mentioned.
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:08 PM   #4
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Ok. However I did read that there are aftermarket products available that will allow you to run both A/Cs automatically but only one at a time. One cycles, then the other. They are never running at the same time but alternate to keep the motorhome evenly cooled.
Does anyone know of such a device?
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:16 PM   #5
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Ok. However I did read that there are aftermarket products available that will allow you to run both A/Cs automatically but only one at a time. One cycles, then the other. They are never running at the same time but alternate to keep the motorhome evenly cooled.
Does anyone know of such a device?
Yep, it's called an Energy Management System or EMS for short. Would require very extensive rewiring on an existing unit.
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:20 PM   #6
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Thanks Guys! Guess I'll trundle along with my 30 amp service!
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:21 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by beepaj View Post
Ok. However I did read that there are aftermarket products available that will allow you to run both A/Cs automatically but only one at a time. One cycles, then the other. They are never running at the same time but alternate to keep the motorhome evenly cooled.
Does anyone know of such a device?
I'm not sure of what you are speaking of except that some EMS (energy management system) systems shed devices if they will exceed the coach's power rating. So, as an example, I have an EMS that will shed the block heater, then something else and then AC 2. This gets problematic when I am on 30 amp service because AC 1 runs around 12 amps (not counting the start up surge) and a few other items that peg me right at 15-17 amps. When AC 2 kicks in it generally exceeds 30 amps and shuts it back down. OTOH, if AC 2 is running and then AC 1 kicks in, it shuts down AC 2.

So...in my experience with my 15,500 BTU Penguins, it is not reasonable to consistently run them both at the same time when on 30 amp service. Even AC units with smaller, stable amp needs will cause some EMS systems to go freaky on you.

I think a good answer would be to run the extra 20 amp circuit on AC 2. That would give you consistent electrical output to that unit and free up your coach to run AC 1 and not have nearly the chance of exceeding 30 amps running other things at the same time. BTW, I don't think alternating AC units makes for even AC coverage unless you have a ducted vent system and even then, that is marginally so.

The only thing that has me scratching my head is that I wouldn't think a 30 amp RV would have 2 AC units. Am I missing something or just uninformed?
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:31 PM   #8
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Howdy beepaj, the issue is the difference between 30 and 50 amp RV hook up. 30 amps is 30 amps maximum delivered through a hot, a neutral, and a ground. 50 amps is two 50 amp hot leads, a neutral, and a ground. That's the difference of 30 amps and 100 amps, or 70 more amps than the 30 amp service. To change over, you'd need a new shore cord, a new transfer switch, a new breaker panel and rewiring of many circuits so you evenly distribute the loads over both legs of the 50 amp service. An alternative to rewiring is installing an Energy Management System like this:
Freedom Sequence Intelligent Power Manager (EMS)
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:31 PM   #9
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Hi beepaj,
I think we need to know why you asked the question. What are you trying to do?
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:42 AM   #10
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First of all, thanks for the replies.
The reason I asked was primarily to see how both AC units (Yup! My unit has two) could be run at the same time. As it is now, I can only run one at a time. Not a big deal but.....
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:17 AM   #11
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Our MH is 30 amp shore power with two AC units and the EMS can switch between the two, but not run both at once. HOWEVER, both units run fine together when the generator is supplying power. Generator provides one 30 amp and one 20 amp circuit. So I guess you can say our MH has both 30 and 50 amp service.
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:53 PM   #12
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My MH has 30 AMP with a EMS that ran a rear 11K and front 13.5K AC at the same time. I replaced to rear 11K with a 13.5K PS Coleman.
My 30 AMP would at times run both if the campground had strong 120-122V power. Much lower then that(112-115) EMS will shut one off a lot.

In Oct. I plan to replace the front 13.5K with a 15K Heat Pump. So I know the dual running will be over with.

So a couple weeks ago I went to Lowe's and bought a 60 AMP breaker box and 20 & 15 AMP breakers. 12' Copper wiring, 2 Female & 1 Male 20 AMP plug connectors.
A box/cover for 120v plug in connection. Cost $78

I already had a 30 AMP Male RV pig tail and 50' 30 AMP cord to use for incoming to the new breaker box.

I cut the wire from the front AC to the MH 20 AMP breaker. Put a male end on the wire going to the AC.
Put a Female end on the wire to the inside breaker box and a Female end on the wire from the new outside breaker box.

And I now can run the front AC from the new breaker box hooked to a separate 50/30 or 20 AMP campground hook up.

Or switch the new installed plugs by the inside breaker box to the inside breaker box to run from the old 30 AMP shore power or Generator power.

The OP can do the same for not much cost. I installed the new breaker box in a outside compartment right below the MH Breaker box and ran a wire from it to above. It also gives me 2 more plug ins in the outside compartment to use with the new 15 AMP breaker.

It was easy to do and I am not a electrician. But I did take a electric shop class in school back in the 50's from MR. Haines.
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:05 AM   #13
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He is my answer in another thread. My 96 Itasca is a 30amp factory coach with 2 a/c's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcgribks View Post
Attachment 35654
Here is a pdf diagram on how I did it plus I''try and add some pictures.
Here's a the weatherproof outlet cover installed in the generator compartment


I drilled a hole between the generator compartment and the rear storage area
and ran the 6/3-8/1 wire

Here is my 50a Automatic Transfer Switch along side my 70a double breaker box

Inside the 70a box showing the 30a and 20a breakers.
The output from the 30 and 20 amp breakers are as follows:
30 amp breaker output hooks up to where the 30amp output from the generator used to hook up to and supplies the original 30amp into the motorhome. I used to have a front/rear a/c switch that would only allow one a/c to be on at any time except for when running the generator. I removed this switch and wired up the a/c as separate.

The output from the 20amp breaker hooks up to the rear a/c only. This is the original output from the generator 20amp output.

I did it this way as I didn't want to run a separate 20amp line for the rear a/c that I'd have to plug into the campground pole. It would have been cheaper to just run a dedicated 20 amp cord to the rear a/c but then you'd have to plug it in to the pedestal too along with the 30 amp cord. I didn't want 2 cord to be plugged into a campground.
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:22 PM   #14
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jcgribks

So it looks as though you are only splitting out 50 amps rather than making full use of the 100amps right?

I see no reason why your breaker couldn't have had the 30amp feeding the existing wiring and then 2 * 20amp circuits and 1 * 30amp circuit that would provide additional power - just running a separate cable to an outlet or two in the main coach and maybe the extra 30amp to the microwave/convection or even an electric cooktop

Nice work though!
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