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Old 08-16-2015, 09:39 PM   #1
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Converter Upgrade w/RV Custom Products Battery Control Center questions

I am getting ready to upgrade our converter from a 65A to a 100Amp unit, install a new fuse panel and install several tank heaters that have an ~30-40 amp draw. I have schematics from Fleetwood that show how my wiring is setup in the coach but am missing the schematic for the RV Custom Products Battery Control Center.

1) Can anyone tell me if the dual 6AWG wires running from the BCC are simply wired in parallel increasing the amp capacity from the BCC to my main distribution panel? If so, I believe they should be able to handle the 100Amp converter.

2) Iím thinking I need to replace the red color coded wire running from the Converter to the the terminal with 2 or 4 gauge (See pic #1 & 3) or run parallel 6 gauge wiring, and all of the purple color coded wire (See pic #1 & 3) with the same setup.

3) Is the #8 Bare Copper for the Chassis ground from the converter adequate or will that need beefed up as well as the negative from the converter?

4) Is my new fuse panel tied into the correct place or should it be in parallel also with one wire from each terminal connection to a common positive on the panel? If I need larger gauge wire than the fuse panel can accommodate (itís a 100A box), can I just get any of the end connectors that will fit both the wire and the fuse panel?

A sanity check on this would be much appreciated.
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Old 08-17-2015, 07:59 PM   #2
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Check the circuit breaker on that BCC. You may find that it will trip if the current ever got anywhere near 100A. I can't read the details of the schematic well enough to see if the CB rating is shown there.

I once upgraded a 50A converter to a 90A and it tripped the breaker whenever the batteries got real low before the converter was powered up. That was an older rig and the RVP BCC had a 50A breaker.
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Old 08-17-2015, 10:18 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwilliams311 View Post
I am getting ready to upgrade our converter from a 65A to a 100Amp unit, install a new fuse panel and install several tank heaters that have an ~30-40 amp draw. I have schematics from Fleetwood that show how my wiring is setup in the coach but am missing the schematic for the RV Custom Products Battery Control Center.

1) Can anyone tell me if the dual 6AWG wires running from the BCC are simply wired in parallel increasing the amp capacity from the BCC to my main distribution panel? If so, I believe they should be able to handle the 100Amp converter.
The 6awg wires are paralleled from the BCC, however, each is protected with a 40amp DC circuit breaker for a total of 80 amps. unless you are foolishly considering running those "heaters" from battery power alone, your recharge current should never exceed that 80amp path capacity.
Quote:
2) Iím thinking I need to replace the red color coded wire running from the Converter to the the terminal with 2 or 4 gauge (See pic #1 & 3) or run parallel 6 gauge wiring, and all of the purple color coded wire (See pic #1 & 3) with the same setup.
If this is the main path to provide power to the "heaters", then I would beef it up a bit.
Quote:

3) Is the #8 Bare Copper for the Chassis ground from the converter adequate or will that need beefed up as well as the negative from the converter?

4) Is my new fuse panel tied into the correct place or should it be in parallel also with one wire from each terminal connection to a common positive on the panel? If I need larger gauge wire than the fuse panel can accommodate (itís a 100A box), can I just get any of the end connectors that will fit both the wire and the fuse panel?

A sanity check on this would be much appreciated.
I did not make a judgement on your items 3 and 4.

I'm not sure that you need it, but here is a link to the BCC circuit board diagram.
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Old 08-17-2015, 10:28 PM   #4
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I forgot to ask, WHY are these tank heaters necessary?
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Old 08-18-2015, 06:36 AM   #5
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I forgot to ask, WHY are these tank heaters necessary?
It's one of those piece of mind things. We will be full-timing for a while and it will be in some wintery states with temps that will more than likely be in the single digits. I've been trying to take every precaution to make sure everything can withstand the temps. We haven't owned a Class A before and I couldn't get any definitive answer as to how well the basement insulated the tanks and what temperatures it would hold so I figured the most prudent decision would be to take the conservative route and spend a little bit for a little piece of mind.

Thanks for the feedback once again and the schematic as well. I didn't have a copy of that.
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Old 08-18-2015, 07:19 AM   #6
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You need to rethink your modification. I would not tie it into your existing electrical system. You might be needing the heat for a about a month or 2 a year. And unless your way up north, you will only need it at night when temps drop way down. There are other issues concerning staying warm inside your RV during the winter.

AC heat trace does not draw more than 1 or 2 amps for a 10 foot length. Look into using that. Keep your heaters separate and use the 20 amp receptacle at the pole for any additional heat you might need. I have camped in temps to 0 degrees with only a few mods.

1. I added 1 electrical circuit to my fresh water compartment. I have one receptacle with a 100 watt light bulb and the other outlet for heat trace wrapped around my exposed water line and pump. The entire compartment is insulated with aluminum backed insulation. I turn it on or off from my circuit breaker panel.

2. I use an extension cord plugged into the park outlet to keep my utility compartment warm (black and Grey tanks). I seal my electrical and water feeds and use aluminum faced insulation. My access door and compartment have permanent rubber /aluminum insulation installed. I have heat trace on my tanks, drain, and water hose. I have a 200 watt heater too if needed. (My water hose has heat traced built into it.)
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Old 08-18-2015, 03:54 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by mgscott4 View Post
1. I added 1 electrical circuit to my fresh water compartment. I have one receptacle with a 100 watt light bulb and the other outlet for heat trace wrapped around my exposed water line and pump. The entire compartment is insulated with aluminum backed insulation. I turn it on or off from my circuit breaker panel.
  1. I'm assuming the 100W bulb is just to warm the interior compartment? Is that really enough to keep it warm down there in the single digits?
  2. When you say aluminum backed insulation, are you meaning fiberglass insulation? Is it installed around all of the tanks or on the basement doors somehow?
  3. Is the heat trace wrapped around all of your exposed wires loosely together or around each individual run of wires?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mgscott4 View Post
2. I use an extension cord plugged into the park outlet to keep my utility compartment warm (black and Grey tanks). I seal my electrical and water feeds and use aluminum faced insulation. My access door and compartment have permanent rubber /aluminum insulation installed. I have heat trace on my tanks, drain, and water hose. I have a 200 watt heater too if needed. (My water hose has heat traced built into it.)
  1. Does the extension cord power the heat trace and bulbs or only if you need the heater?
  2. How do you have the heat trace on the tanks? Wouldn't putting it around just the bottom edges not actually cover enough surface area to keep the contents from freezing?

Lastly, how do you protect your rig when traveling? Do you winterize it before hitting the road? This was exactly the kind of dialog I needed, so bear with me on all of the questions.
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