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Old 07-15-2014, 05:12 PM   #15
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Chris, here is my humble opinion. I have one of each. It would be hard to tell the difference between the two. My rv has inefficient and restrictive overhead vents. I tried to remove as much resistance inside of them as possible with a small improvement by taking each register out and cutting the protrusion off a bit. The part that goes inside the channels that is. Inside the air conditioners themselves I used some tape to make sure all air was getting to the ducts. My AC covers had small slide registers that would allow air straight down. From experience owning several RV's I have found the ones that vent straight into the RV are far more effective but quite a bit noisier than ones with ceiling registers.

Parking in direct sun in the Sacramento Valley in the Summer makes it almost impossible to cool the coach. Covering windows etc helps and parking East West with the windshield to the East helps but still gets warm inside.

Experimenting for several weeks with modifications I finally closed off the ceiling register conduits and force all of the air out of the AC directly. Cutting out the small slide register part on the AC cover panel was easy and in place is one of those clear plastic register things you would place over your home register vents to force air downward. I now have a huge volume of air you can actually stand under for instant cooling and it keeps the rv much cooler. I took the vent mod a little different way in the bedroom by using a 4 inch pvc pipe with an oblique fitting on the end of a short straight piece. This allows me to direct the air in almost any direction.

The noise level is up of course but the comfort level is way up now.

Critical to the best cooling is cleaning the AC condensers. You may also find some air leaks when you take the outside covers off. Duct tape to the rescue so none of that precious cold air can escape.
Makes sense, I measured 50 deg. coming out of the chill grill and 65 coming out of the ceiling vents in 90 deg.+ weather, and higher airflow also.
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:12 PM   #16
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just did that! What a waste of money that was. Get a 3rd unit !!!
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:23 PM   #17
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To convert 13.5k to 15k capacity of BTU you simply install ventilation holes into the shroud at the discharge side of the condenser so more air flow gets across the coil.
Not true. The coils are truly different sizes.
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:37 PM   #18
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I did see something recently about a larger btu RV AC available. It was not from Dometic or Coleman. I just can't recall the details

I believe you are thinking about the new Atwood.

RV Air Conditioners

They claim the 15k effectively is the equivalent of an 18k.
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:46 PM   #19
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In my opinion, it's a lot of little things (as others have mentioned) that will make your coach more comfortable. The older the coach, the harder to cool (ductwork design flaws). For me, once both A/Cs were replaced, placing Reflectix in all the windows was the best fix. If you can stop the heat from coming thru the glass, you'll see about a 5 degree change. The Reflectix needs to be as close to the glass as possible (no trapped air). The other trick is to not let the RV get hot ... if you are traveling, run the genset and at least one A/C. If the cabinet airspaces, clothing, furniture, and mattress get hot it takes a long time to get rid of that heat.
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Old 07-18-2014, 08:03 PM   #20
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I believe you are thinking about the new Atwood.

RV Air Conditioners

They claim the 15k effectively is the equivalent of an 18k.
I looked into that the other day, and I think if you read carefully, you might find that 18K rating is WITH evaporative cooler usage.
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Old 07-18-2014, 08:49 PM   #21
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Much harder to do, but they 3rd unit would result oin the greatest increase in cold air and, as an added benefit, gives you some flexibility in which units you run.

I replaced a 15K Domestic Penquin on my last coach. Thee old one was a 2007/8 unit. The new one was a 2012 unit and much louder. Just and FYI.
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Old 07-20-2014, 12:28 PM   #22
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My 2014 15K Dometic is definitely louder than the 1998 Coleman 13k before it. It also cools better. Can still run both the main and bedroom units simultaneously on 30 amp or even 20 amp power and the 5500 Marquis generator.
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Old 07-20-2014, 01:29 PM   #23
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My 2014 15K Dometic is definitely louder than the 1998 Coleman 13k before it. It also cools better. Can still run both the main and bedroom units simultaneously on 30 amp or even 20 amp power and the 5500 Marquis generator.
You run two air units on a 20A ciruit?
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:55 PM   #24
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Converting 13.5k ac units to 15k?

I can I think the rear Coleman is an11k but not sure. I understand this was popular back in the day. 13 in front 11 in back. It looks identical to the old 13k front unit.

Home has a 30 amp pedistal so i dont normally run both on a 20. It's really hard on plugs on the cords. They tend to show thermal damage.

I can run both on low cool and the energy manager staggers them when needed. They will both run in low cool simultaneously on a 20 amp feed.
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