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Old 01-01-2012, 03:52 PM   #1
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Converting to 30 Amp

If I use a 30 amp circuit breaker (at the box) and correct gauge wire is this all I need to make a 30 amp connection to run my a/c at my garage (rv of course) ? Also what guage wire do I use.. Right now its 20 Amp. I just want to convert to 30 amp....
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Old 01-01-2012, 04:25 PM   #2
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If you have a short run, say 15-20ft, I would use 10/2. If it was 50-100ft, I would use 8/2.
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Old 01-01-2012, 04:26 PM   #3
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10 Ga. should be just fine if you stay under total length 120' to load.
If you want more info. Wire Capacity Chart
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Old 01-01-2012, 06:09 PM   #4
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10-2 it is
thanks
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Old 01-01-2012, 06:36 PM   #5
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Rather than "Change" I would simply add a 30 amp breaker, a TT-30 outlet and hook 'em up I see wire guage is already covered.

NOTE: If you are doing it yourself, from the sounds of it you will very likely do it right.

If you are having it done by a professional... I suggest doing a 50 amp.. Several reasons

1: The cost of upgrading later, should you wish to do so is now zero (the additional cost of the heavier wiere, pigtail and outlet are way less than haveing the pro come bac out to change it)

second,,, Where as I have read thread after thread where some pro put in a 30 amp outelt and did it wrong, frying the RV's electroincs.. Not one such thrad where a 50 was done wrong... though I do admit it's possible, not likely. Epically at a house.
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Old 01-01-2012, 09:04 PM   #6
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You can still wire a 50 amp wrong if you put L1 and L2 on the same phase instead of split phase. Then when you measure voltage between L1 and L2 you get zero, instead of 240 volts like you should. Hope this helps.

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Old 01-02-2012, 07:22 AM   #7
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Be sure to make that 10-2 with ground.

Your dogbone connector will take care of the phasing as you won't have 220 volt anyway, same 30 amp leg will feed both 50 amp circuits with a max 30 amp on all circuits.
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:17 AM   #8
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10/2withground 30amp single pole breaker (110 volt 1 hot,1neutral,1 ground).
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronspradley View Post
You can still wire a 50 amp wrong if you put L1 and L2 on the same phase instead of split phase. Then when you measure voltage between L1 and L2 you get zero, instead of 240 volts like you should. Hope this helps.

ronspradley

This is true, however outside of a cheapskate park I've never heard of a professional electrician doing this. Even if it were done it would not fry the RV's electronics,, All it would do is "Fool" the EMS into thinking it's a 30 amp outlet if you have an EMS.

Where as putting 24 volts on a tt-30 outlet.. Gets real expensive real fast.

That said it sounds like the O/P is planing on doing the work himeself.. Same as I would .. and it looks like he's planing on doing it right as well.
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Old 01-02-2012, 04:48 PM   #10
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Man, If I were going to all the trouble of putting in new breakers, wiring, conduit, etc, I would certainly put in a 50 amp 2 phase instead of a 30 amp single phase. It's the same amount of work and you get 3 times the power. Even if you never use it with your current RV, if you ever upgrade to a 50 amp coach, the power is there. Just pull 6/3 with a ground and a different plug and breaker... all the other stuff is the same as long as you have space in your main panel. It's just the added cost of the larger wire and you'll have more then enough amps to run anything you need. I'm just saying that for all the labor involved, go BIG! There is no substitute for more power except to do it over.
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Old 01-02-2012, 05:01 PM   #11
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Paul has it...right on...say you want to upgrade coaches. At my age I hate do-overs, but a few them would not be to too bad, now that I think about it.
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Old 01-02-2012, 05:36 PM   #12
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30 amp

Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
Rather than "Change" I would simply add a 30 amp breaker, a TT-30 outlet and hook 'em up I see wire guage is already covered.

NOTE: If you are doing it yourself, from the sounds of it you will very likely do it right.

If you are having it done by a professional... I suggest doing a 50 amp.. Several reasons

1: The cost of upgrading later, should you wish to do so is now zero (the additional cost of the heavier wiere, pigtail and outlet are way less than haveing the pro come bac out to change it)

second,,, Where as I have read thread after thread where some pro put in a 30 amp outelt and did it wrong, frying the RV's electroincs.. Not one such thrad where a 50 was done wrong... though I do admit it's possible, not likely. Epically at a house.
I put in a 30amp breaker a couple of years ago but noticed the the electric plug (shore power) was getting warm when I turned the a/c on thought maybe the wire from main box to outlet I installed was'nt heavy enough
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
Even if it were done it would not fry the RV's electronics,, All it would do is "Fool" the EMS into thinking it's a 30 amp outlet if you have an EMS.
The other thing (and the most important reason NOT to wire L1 and L2 on the same phase) is that it would make the neutral current additive instead of subtractive between the two legs. Granted, if just being used for storage, this might not be as big of a deal, but under heavy usage the neutral conductor could be severely overloaded, resulting in a potential fire hazard.

A properly-wired 50 amp RV service outlet should ALWAYS measure 240VAC between L1 and L2.

Rusty
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:23 PM   #14
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Re: 30 A. Vs 50 A. Just remember that CONTINUOUS ampacity of any AC circuit is only 80% of maximum. That means 24 AMPS for a 30 A circuit.

When I run both of my A/C units, it pulls 24 amps. Even at that load the 50A to 30A converter adaptor pigtail gets quite warm.
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