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Old 07-08-2016, 08:03 AM   #1
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Cooling question on older gas motorhome?

I currently have a 92 30' Southwind with the 454 TBI engine in it. The motorhome has less than 60k miles on it. I recently replaced the radiator due to the original one finally splitting at the tank. I have noticed that it seems to cool fine 200-210 at 60 mph but when I'm slowing down to a stop at the stop light, that water temp starts to instantly creep up. If I sit at the light long enough it will go up to about 220+. Once I get going again the temp goes back down. I know it must be an airflow issue but was wondering what causes it to build head as I'm putting on brakes coming to a stop? I do know that I never seem to hear the clutch fan engage like I have read folks talking about. I thought at one time that it might be a faulty temp gauge sender so I replaced it and same thing. I have also replaced the thermostat and went to a 180 degree, still does it. Could this be a clutch fan issue or something else?

Thanks
Jason
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Old 07-08-2016, 08:20 AM   #2
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Fan Clutch

You most likely have a fan clutch issue. Get a GM replacement. I have had poor luck with aftermarket replacements.
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Old 07-08-2016, 08:29 AM   #3
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Yes it could be fan clutch issue but also make sure you got all of sealing around radiator back in place when you replaced and fan shroud connected and sealed tight to radiator. Fan will draw some % of air around the radiator if not sealed properly.
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Old 07-08-2016, 08:42 AM   #4
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Yes it could be fan clutch issue but also make sure you got all of sealing around radiator back in place when you replaced and fan shroud connected and sealed tight to radiator. Fan will draw some % of air around the radiator if not sealed properly.
Are you talking about the rubber "flaps" that attached above the radiator at the top?
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Old 07-08-2016, 08:58 AM   #5
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Can you hear your fan clutch kick in? It should sound like the motor is roaring, like a downshift. If it's not hideously loud, the clutch is not fully engaged. And yes, the flaps around the radiator are essential to cooling.


When you had the radiator out, that was a good time to replace the water pump, and all the hoses. After 60,000 miles and 25 years, the impeller blades inside the water pump tend to oxidize/erode away, greatly reducing the efficiency of the water pump and them whole cooling system, especially if it's a factory or low quality cast pump. The lower radiator hose has a spring inside it to keep the pump from sucking it flat; that spring also erodes after a decade or two.
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:12 AM   #6
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Did you remove the fan clutch when changing the radiator? According to the Chevy manual, If the clutch is not stored upright, The fluid will seep out and the clutch will not work. Also the fan shroud must be installed correctly or the fan will not pull air correctly. Lastly, did you replace all the radiator trim material that directs the air through the radiator?
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:12 AM   #7
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Can you hear your fan clutch kick in? It should sound like the motor is roaring, like a downshift. If it's not hideously loud, the clutch is not fully engaged. And yes, the flaps around the radiator are essential to cooling.


When you had the radiator out, that was a good time to replace the water pump, and all the hoses. After 60,000 miles and 25 years, the impeller blades inside the water pump tend to oxidize/erode away, greatly reducing the efficiency of the water pump and them whole cooling system, especially if it's a factory or low quality cast pump. The lower radiator hose has a spring inside it to keep the pump from sucking it flat; that spring also erodes after a decade or two.
I did not replace the water pump or the clutch yet because when the radiator busted we were stranded at a truck stop 200 miles from home. I made the repairs there and got it home a couple days later but I have since considered breaking back into it and replacing the pump and fan clutch. I also left the rubber flaps off currently, never thought about them being critical to the cooling but it makes perfect sense now.

Thanks for all the advice guys!!!
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:21 AM   #8
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Definitely put the rubber seals back in. They serve two purposes. 1 - seal the air flow as mentioned and 2- act as vibration mount, without them the radiator can move/vibrate against the channel and wear holes in the radiator tanks.
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Old 07-08-2016, 02:27 PM   #9
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Everyone here has good suggestions, BUT first things first! Verify your coolant temps. Not unusual for a sending unit or gauge to give bad readings. EZ way is to point a temp gun at the thermostat housing and see if it reads close to the gauge.
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