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Old 05-20-2019, 09:01 PM   #1
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Cruise Control wont turn on 1995 National dolphin

Hi everyone,

95 national RV Dolphin, Ford F53 chassis, 460 V8 engine
Looking for help with my cruise control not turning on. Here is what we have tried so far.

1. Replaced the deactivation switch at the master cylinder
2. Checked the recall harness fuses, all working, harness has continuity.
3. Checked #9 fuse for brake switch under the dash.
4. Checked #6 fuse in the engine compartment.
5. We had converted tail/stop lights to LED so we added resistors to the stop light circuit to simulate incandescent and rule that out. Made no difference.
6. Checked the switches on the steering wheel, both working. Could not get the wheel off to check the brushes as it needs a ford puller tool.

Stop lights are working, horn working. Ran out of ideas.

Anything else I am missing ?

Thanks
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Old 05-20-2019, 10:29 PM   #2
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is the brake pedal returning All the way back?
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Old 05-20-2019, 10:42 PM   #3
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There is some play meaning I can lift it maybe 1/2" from it's resting position
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Old 05-20-2019, 10:50 PM   #4
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Has it ever worked since you took possession of it?
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:03 PM   #5
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Has it ever worked since you took possession of it?
Yes it worked fine when we got it 14 months ago, drove it 400 miles to our home. it has been in our shop ever since. We have put new roof on it, fixed up the interior, new shocks and brakes, LED lights and a paint job.
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:27 PM   #6
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The cruise control quit working on my Lexus toad. I discovered that someone had pulled the connector wires off the cruise control module in the engine compartment when they were replacing my alternator.

I plugged the wire harness back into the cruise control module and it started working.

I don't know if your Ford has a cruise control module but it might worth investigating.
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Old 05-21-2019, 08:22 AM   #7
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6. Checked the switches on the steering wheel, both working. Could not get the wheel off to check the brushes as it needs a ford puller tool.
How do you know the switches are working besides making a click feeling?

To remove the steering wheel, remove the center nut and mark the clock position of the wheel to the steering shaft with a marker to get it back on straight. Thread the nut back on a few turns by hand. Grasp the steering wheel at 3 & 9 o'clock, literally hang straight back using your body weight and rock slightly left to right.

Most wheels will pop off, the nut is to stop you from hurting yourself or damaging anything.

My cruise was getting harder to set so after testing with my NGS (Ford Scan tool) and cruise cable adapter 007-00586, I was able to determine that the "On" switch was not sending a signal.

I was able to remove the steering wheel to clean/lube the slip rings and brushes, and disassemble the switches to clean and lube.
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Old 05-21-2019, 08:33 AM   #8
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How do you know the switches are working besides making a click feeling?

To remove the steering wheel, remove the center nut and mark the clock position of the wheel to the steering shaft with a marker to get it back on straight. Thread the nut back on a few turns by hand. Grasp the steering wheel at 3 & 9 o'clock, literally hang straight back using your body weight and rock slightly left to right.

Most wheels will pop off, the nut is to stop you from hurting yourself or damaging anything.

My cruise was getting harder to set so after testing with my NGS (Ford Scan tool) and cruise cable adapter 007-00586, I was able to determine that the "On" switch was not sending a signal.

I was able to remove the steering wheel to clean/lube the slip rings and brushes, and disassemble the switches to clean and lube.
Mine is older type of steering wheel. The CC housing pops off the steering wheel easily and has a 3 pin connector. Tracing the wires to each switch, on/off and set/resume i took a continuity tester and put the probes on the appropriate pins for each switch. Pressing the buttons closed and opened the circuits as expected with the tester light going on/off.

I tried the pull, rock method and it is a splined shaft and it won't budge. I even tried to fashion a puller and was able to get some torque on it but the puller gave out before the wheel did. Not wanting to risk further damage I decided to quit while I was ahead.

Thinking about what you said though, I didn't test to see if the connector was getting 12v from the steering column ... hmmm I will have to check that
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Old 05-21-2019, 09:04 AM   #9
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One of the issues with Ford is they didn't put a light on the dash to show when or even IF the cruise is activated? For all we know it could be on but just won't set or it could be not on at all !! Then of course without the light on the dash, the only way to test it is to run it down the road.. Ford ...ugh!
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Old 05-21-2019, 09:57 AM   #10
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It's a shame you can't get the steering wheel off, dirty slip rings were common on the older vehicles that don't use a clock spring. I didn't know if you needed a wiring diagram or not.
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Old 05-21-2019, 10:06 AM   #11
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It's a shame you can't get the steering wheel off, dirty slip rings were common on the older vehicles that don't use a clock spring. I didn't know if you needed a wiring diagram or not.
I think it's time to take it to the mechanics shop ..
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Old 05-21-2019, 04:32 PM   #12
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I got the steering wheel off. I do not have a clock spring but an older 3 spring loaded pins that ride in 3 concentric rings on the back of the steering wheel. They run vertically and the top one appears to be ground followed by the CC pin in the center and the horn at the bottom.

I am seeing 12v between the top pin and the bottom pin and also if I go ground to bottom pin. That is the horn I believe.

Between top pin and ground is 0v.


For the middle Cruise Control pin however I am only seeing 6V to ground. Is this correct ?

Anyone know what voltage I should be getting there?
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Old 05-21-2019, 09:26 PM   #13
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Did the cruise work before the LED lights were added? Before you tear more stuff apart I would put the tail lights back to stock and see if it works again.
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Old 05-22-2019, 06:46 AM   #14
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Looking at the wiring diagram there are three brushes/slip rings. one is 12v, one is ground and one comes from the module which you are reading 6v which may or may not be normal.

Maybe this will help from the Ford Shop Manual. Pinpoint A - Inoperative
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