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Old 08-01-2015, 07:32 PM   #15
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You could have run the generator and house A/C for a lot of miles for $2000. Your dash A/C is not designed to cool the whole coach regardless of what you spend. In my coach the dash A/C and the gen running has about the same impact on MPG. So.....run the gen and be comfortable. Save the dash A/C for more moderate temps.
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Old 08-01-2015, 07:45 PM   #16
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Although a dash AC will not cool the entire coach. Just running the coach AC still does not provide enough comfort for the driver in our coach. For the last year that is all we have had so no choice, last trip out added a small fan mid coach to push some cool air up my way in the drivers seat. That made a huge difference. But when the sun is shining in the large front windshield there is still a lot of heat right in your face. Having a dash AC to blow some cool air directly at you would be a welcome comfort I would like to have. Since I just fixed mine today I am looking forward to testing it out on the road.


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Old 08-01-2015, 07:57 PM   #17
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I would take it back to the shop and get them to put gauges on the system. They should be able to tell you why it is not cooling in 10 minutes. Low pressure should be approx. 30# High side above 150#. You can look up what the pressures on your system should have. If it is 30 and 150 to 200 it should be blowing cold air.
Did they pull a vacuum on the system before they charged??? You must get the air and moisture out of the system before charging.
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Old 08-01-2015, 08:05 PM   #18
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Although a dash AC will not cool the entire coach. Just running the coach AC still does not provide enough comfort for the driver in our coach. For the last year that is all we have had so no choice, last trip out added a small fan mid coach to push some cool air up my way in the drivers seat. That made a huge difference. But when the sun is shining in the large front windshield there is still a lot of heat right in your face. Having a dash AC to blow some cool air directly at you would be a welcome comfort I would like to have. Since I just fixed mine today I am looking forward to testing it out on the road.


Steve
I completely agree with you on running house and dash A/C when needed. On the fan.......we do the same and use a squirrel cage type fan. It does much better than a propeller type. After some experimenting we've found that the fan aimed (angled) at the ceiling over the front area does the best for us. Stay cool.
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Old 08-01-2015, 08:25 PM   #19
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It will often help if you have the cab AC control set on max or recirculate so it's pulling air from inside the coach, and not from the hot tires and pavement outside the coach.

If your AC is pulling 20 degree cooler air, it's putting out 20 degree cooler air.....
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:04 PM   #20
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sounds simple but try it . make sure the dash heat/ ac lever is actually moving the valve from the heat to the cooling position. if you are not shutting the hot water to the heater your ac will just blow hot/warm air. sometimes the cable ,which moves the lever binds or gets loose good luck
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:13 PM   #21
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tryed that and we also bypassed heater core still the same a/c no cooling
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Old 08-02-2015, 10:26 PM   #22
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Are you sure that when you move the knobs that they are actually moving the control. I once had a knob that would turn but the control just stayed put.
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Old 08-03-2015, 05:39 AM   #23
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what are low and high side pressure readings ? without them al rest of this talk is just bs.
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Old 08-03-2015, 08:03 AM   #24
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what are low and high side pressure readings ? without them al rest of this talk is just bs.
Agreed. And, maybe I missed a post, but I don't think he's ever even answered the question about whether the compressor is even actually engaging. If it isn't engaging, nothing happens.
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Old 08-08-2015, 08:42 AM   #25
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compressor is brand new i need to take it two a shop when i get back and have it checked.i am not near it now thanks will report back
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:01 AM   #26
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Ensure the cooling fan is running on the condenser. Mine was located under the coach behind the gen set. Mine had locked up. I replaced it with one from AutoZone for $60 and now blows cold.
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Old 08-12-2015, 09:56 PM   #27
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Looking at this from another angle. Could the actuators that open and close the various flaps and doors on the front heat/AC system not be working? If the correct door doesn't open allowing air into and out of the condenser unit there wouldn't be any cool air. The fan would still push air out based on the doors that are open. This would apply whether the actuators are electric or vacuum operated.

I seem to remember from somewhere in my distant past that diesels, especially turbos with their positive pressure manifolds can't generate a vacuum and required a vacuum pump.
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Old 08-14-2015, 05:51 PM   #28
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fwiw, my dash air was marginal and I considered recharging the system. When I looked under the hood of my 2002 KSDP I found the evaporator had vibrated its mounting bolts loose from the bulkhead. I was getting a mix of O/S air through the vents. Making the evaporator fast to the wall of the front compartment (above the genset) made all the difference.
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