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Old 07-04-2014, 07:01 PM   #15
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Mine dash air doesn't blow cold in my new '85 Vogue 33'. Mechanic says he can't put the old Freon in it to make it blow cold, and would have to install a new system at a cost of over $500-1000. I told him to not bother for I can't seem to understand when and why I would even need it. Can't imagine it cooling the whole coach, and assume the two roof airs would be much more useful in a really hot desert like situation.

What do you think?
the guy is just trying to make money off you.If its just a simple case of low on coolant situation which would be normal for a vehicle that's 29years old.
U can buy reditek12 and a charge hose for 30 bucks and add it yourself.
this guy is an idiot and knows full well that's all u need assuming your compressor works and no leaks of any consequence
if its a oring leak it could be fixed easy and then do what I just said. I do it all the time
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:46 PM   #16
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It's about safety - your defrosters are not a luxury. And it's not just about blowing air on the windshield. It's about blowing dehumidified air on the windshield.

And besides, it makes driving more comfortable....
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:58 PM   #17
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It's about safety - your defrosters are not a luxury. And it's not just about blowing air on the windshield. It's about blowing dehumidified air on the windshield.

And besides, it makes driving more comfortable....
wrong thread ,maybe? what you talking ABOUT?
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Old 07-04-2014, 08:22 PM   #18
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wrong thread ,maybe? what you talking ABOUT?
A fogged windshield can be cleared with the air conditioning turned on. When your defroster is turned on so is your air conditioner by default. All vehicles I have ever had are setup this way.

Otherwise all you can do is wipe the inside of the windshield with a rag.
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Old 07-04-2014, 08:55 PM   #19
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never seen a problem in my 63 years of living where u actually need AC for the defrost to work and its not what the OP was asking either
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Old 07-05-2014, 07:30 AM   #20
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I can see where you might have that idea if you weren't aware your AC was running when you turned on the defroster.

Blowing warm humid air over a windshield not the most efficient way of clearing it, summer or winter.
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Old 07-05-2014, 11:03 AM   #21
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I can see where you might have that idea if you weren't aware your AC was running when you turned on the defroster.

Blowing warm humid air over a windshield not the most efficient way of clearing it, summer or winter.
Not trying to argue, but my used Ford Ranger I had in high school, didn't even have the AC compressor on the motor. The previous owners, or the many before that, cut the hoses and pulled the composer cause it didn't work. I never had a problem defrosting my windshield.
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Old 07-05-2014, 12:10 PM   #22
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Referencing comments by Bad Bolt and Fkloster: We likewise negotiated price for inoperable A/C on our 2000 Itasca Suncruiser. Cost us $1,100 to replace the system, but worth it in the long-run. We can now use cheaper coolant and not be so hot in cab area; even with house A/C, going into TX sun really heats things up.
Referencing comments by Ahicks and Arch Hoagland: We have already used the defrost function, and the dash A/C is what dries out the windshield and it dramatically assists with defogging.
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Old 07-05-2014, 02:36 PM   #23
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I can see where you might have that idea if you weren't aware your AC was running when you turned on the defroster.

Blowing warm humid air over a windshield not the most efficient way of clearing it, summer or winter.
yes I have been in auto and RV repair business for 40+ years.I know how AC works I know about ac running on defrost. the OP asked about a cheap way to fix and I gave him a cheap solution/suggestion.AC is not a requirement for a defrost system to work its an aid they have used for the last 25 years or so though what I told him:
U can buy reditek12 and a charge hose for 30 bucks and add it yourself
buy a R12 hose though or u will need a adapter to us the 134 hose kit
That being said being a 1985 who knows what could be wrong though.it might be as simple as Implied and the whole thing may be junk
If it need,s a new compressor, Receiver/dryer/ plus orings and new oil and
evac and recharge its most likely over 1000$
that's why if the system visually looks ok its worth the 30$ fix(attempt)
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:01 PM   #24
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Hotshot also direct replacement used by pros for commercial duty.

Use it in ours and it works well.

Typical r12 systems did not have best of seals just because little restrictions on repairs then.

Now factort 134 systems much better and few leak.

Proper conversion must inlcude all rubber due to 134 being able to seep through r12 hoses.

Locate a good servicer and purchase a 35 pound supply of gas for your own use and pay them to add it as needed.

Cost more up front but per pound is much less.

2 years ago hotshot was close in cost to 134.
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:18 PM   #25
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I use my dash air until it too hot and then I turn on my roof air. Here is an ebay link of interest:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:54 PM   #26
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Hc based...?

Hydrocarbon...

Butane?

Butane has been used as replacement and it does work but if leaks may not be good idea...
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Old 07-05-2014, 07:00 PM   #27
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Your question ,,,,,,,,Dash A/C - Is it really needed with dual roof A/Cs in a Class A?

of course not , neither is heat. Nice to have tho'..
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:55 PM   #28
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I recently rolled the dice and bought a redtek kit with gauge, 2 cans of refrigerant and one can of stop leak for $75 from amazon. Followed easy directions and it worked great. I figured it was well worth the risk for that kind of money. It was a big help on our last trip. Front third of coach gets noticeably hotter from windshield while traveling. Outside temps were around 90.
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